Could be spark blowout and when the silencer is in it cuts down on the flow through the motor which in turn lower cylinder pressures which prevents the spark going out which makes it drive better 
ground points...
- Thread starter rakkasan
- Start date
IJ. said:Could be spark blowout and when the silencer is in it cuts down on the flow through the motor which in turn lower cylinder pressures which prevents the spark going out which makes it drive better
so you're telling me I could be blowing out spark with an almost stock motor? with brand new toyota plugs...gapped to factory specs?
I could see that on a high HP application, but I'm far from that, I believe...
You have a huge IC so bugger all restriction = loads of FLOW stock plug gaps are HUGE and it's a 10+ year old Ignition system so yeah could very well be ....
Only guessing here from the information you've posted.
Only guessing here from the information you've posted.
rakkasan
i just thought of something, I sold you that Tech Tom Rom board right. Is it possible a setting you have on it is the cause of your issue if you have it installed. Or have you not put it in yet?
i just thought of something, I sold you that Tech Tom Rom board right. Is it possible a setting you have on it is the cause of your issue if you have it installed. Or have you not put it in yet?
bobiseverywhere said:
I didn't buy it from you, but I wish I had
I'm running 440's, aeromotive afpr, walbro 255, emanage blue w/ timing & injector control harnesses, profec E0-1 w/ boost controller, LC-1 wb......
Aaron had it dyno tuned when it was in Cali, so I know that everything was working well together. Because it was tuned & running great, I can only think of two things: a ground wire gone bad or sabotage to the emanage comitted by my son that can't keep his hands off of anything computer related. My son might have screwed with the emanage to the point that it's running well beyond pig rich. I'm going to put the ground kit in & put it on the dyno again...
Easy way to tell if you have bad grounds....
Hit the brakes or turn the turn signals on. Do your dash lights go dim? If so.. bad ground.
To me, sounds like you have cracked coils. Everyone does lol just some are worse then others
Hit the brakes or turn the turn signals on. Do your dash lights go dim? If so.. bad ground.
To me, sounds like you have cracked coils. Everyone does lol just some are worse then others
Ric said:
The lights don't go dim. I cleaned the contact points on the grounds & then checked the grounds with a multimeter from battery to motor, no current.
Ric said:
I pulled them & checked them again. I found no cracks at all. To be safe, I put 1" heat shrink tubing over them. Afterward covering the coils & inspecting the grounds I drove the car, only to find the same symptoms. :icon_conf The brake light warning light, tail light warning light & the battery warning light still light up & it sputters. Could the car run so rich that it causes the problem?
Yes it's a possibility. You can have too much fuel going into you cylinders at that point, making it harder to ignite and burn the fuel. However I don't think all of those lights would turn on from being too rich. Sounds to me like some kind of boost cut going on? Maybee your BCC is not responding as fast as it should be??? Either way, I would make sure your fuel map is smooth and get the thing re-tuned and see where you stand from there.
It's starting to look like my problems are caused by my newly installed, freshly rebuilt alternator. :icon_conf I checked it today and it's only putting out 12.02v at idle & just a tad more at 3k rpm. I'm swapping it out again this weekend & see what happens....
Changed alternators, good voltage, same problem. But.....
After many minutes on the phone with Aaron (thanks again Aaron), we think we have it figured out. My ecu gets it's o2 reading from my LC-1 wideband. The wideband isn't calibrated, therefor it's sending the ecu the wrong AFR. We believe that the ecu is thinking that there is a lean condition so it's trying to protect the motor by going to fuel cut. I'll calibrate it tomorrow & see what happens....
After many minutes on the phone with Aaron (thanks again Aaron), we think we have it figured out. My ecu gets it's o2 reading from my LC-1 wideband. The wideband isn't calibrated, therefor it's sending the ecu the wrong AFR. We believe that the ecu is thinking that there is a lean condition so it's trying to protect the motor by going to fuel cut. I'll calibrate it tomorrow & see what happens....
im having the same type issue in my 1jz 240sx...
i had my 6097 at .28 gap and it barley ran especially in boost...gapped em down to .21 and its running alot better.....but my fog lights get dim at idle and brighten up wit rpms and my head lights dont even come on.....so i think i have a grounding problem im trying to diagnose now...
i have stock twins, stock inj, walbro pump with -6line
chipped ecu and i tried a fcd but that didnt work...
i have swapped ecu's, coils, plugs, map sensor.
my a/f is in the 12s under boost and fuel pressure is good....
im hoping it a grounding issue...ill keep you posted on my issue
Jeff
i had my 6097 at .28 gap and it barley ran especially in boost...gapped em down to .21 and its running alot better.....but my fog lights get dim at idle and brighten up wit rpms and my head lights dont even come on.....so i think i have a grounding problem im trying to diagnose now...
i have stock twins, stock inj, walbro pump with -6line
chipped ecu and i tried a fcd but that didnt work...
i have swapped ecu's, coils, plugs, map sensor.
my a/f is in the 12s under boost and fuel pressure is good....
im hoping it a grounding issue...ill keep you posted on my issue
Jeff