hey my rar tires are shot and different siezes too, what was it like when you drove it with that? i wanna try and figure out if my suspension needs alot of work or if its just the tires as in yoru case
GreenChevelleSS's Supra Engine rebuild and Supra clean up!
- Thread starter GreenChevelleSS
- Start date
well when I would get on it the whole car would start swaying side to side and it would feel like the bushing were shot.
when I would take a corner real sharp under power the rear would slide and i had no control and now I have control if it does slide
also when I launched hard and the tires would spin it would spin and start going sideways
when I would take a corner real sharp under power the rear would slide and i had no control and now I have control if it does slide
also when I launched hard and the tires would spin it would spin and start going sideways
SWEET! thats exactly the kind of shit that happens to me! although im sure my suspension aint the tits.
Today when I was replacing the TPS, I polished out the throttle body, bypassed the coolant hose for the throttle body heater and I honed out the 3000 pipe and polished as much of it as I could, hoping that would help my air flow some, actually the 3000 pipe was very bad inside I recommend everyone it hone out
yeah, a 7mgte had chromoly rings stock. also, the arp studs shouldnt have come loose. i put mine to 90lbs in 3 pases, 30, then 60, then 90. never had one come loose and have put far more miles then you have. anyhow, glad its running good. btw, the biggest mods you can make for the money is the exhaust, get a bic downpipe, and have him rout the wastegate pipe back in if you want it quiet, then get a full 3in exhaust. youll be surprised how much better it runs and the boost should go up a couple psi do to the increased flow o nthe exhaust side. also, to help the boost. go to the autoparts store and get some of the 2in flexible exhaust pipe, not the crunch stuff, but the spiral stuff. replace the pipe from the turbo to i/c wit hthat and the pipe from the i/c to the fender, itll help out alot as well. it doesnt look like it seals but it does. im currently using it myself. works great. gets rid of all the sharp bends and smaller transistions. cheap mod at about $18. might want to paint them so they dont rust on the outside though. also, might want to look into the bosch bov mod since the stockers tend to get worn out and leak. and then after all that shim the wastegate actuator for ~12psi since its the stock turbo. should run well that way and not give any probs as long as you leave the timing at 10deg btdc and dont go over 12psi. also, get autolite copper 3923's and gap them to ~27 thousands. helps a bit. they need changed more often then plats but run alot better. nice job otherwise and thats a damn clean car you got there. congrats on the purchase.
Yea ive already made the lower IC pipe with some galvanized electrical conduit.
We torqued the arp studs to 82lbs originally but they came loose or stretched and I had not retorqued them. I heard that its recommended that you retorque the studs after a few heat cycles but I thought that was recommended for all head bolts/studs/fasteners.
Im looking at getting a widemouth downpipe before I raise the boost anymore because I wouldnt like to shove all that air in and cant get it out.
Its got brand new platnum tipped autolites. But i think I need some new wires
I want to get a Bosch Bypass valve but my stocker is working fine and ill get one when this one goes out or is causeing problems or I have more money
I would like to upgrade as much as I could but limited funds and no job limit what I can do and I dont know if Im gonna keep the car long because my chevelle is more important to me and Im not rich enough to pay for both cars
We torqued the arp studs to 82lbs originally but they came loose or stretched and I had not retorqued them. I heard that its recommended that you retorque the studs after a few heat cycles but I thought that was recommended for all head bolts/studs/fasteners.
Im looking at getting a widemouth downpipe before I raise the boost anymore because I wouldnt like to shove all that air in and cant get it out.
Its got brand new platnum tipped autolites. But i think I need some new wires
I want to get a Bosch Bypass valve but my stocker is working fine and ill get one when this one goes out or is causeing problems or I have more money
I would like to upgrade as much as I could but limited funds and no job limit what I can do and I dont know if Im gonna keep the car long because my chevelle is more important to me and Im not rich enough to pay for both cars
Hey i searched for Eristitc and you're the only hit..
How have they held up so far? anything to report?
probably not much after such a short time, but since you are the only hit for it on SM, i have to ask
thanks
How have they held up so far? anything to report?
probably not much after such a short time, but since you are the only hit for it on SM, i have to ask
thanks
They suck dont buy them, Ive got a whole new engine now
Here my current setup
GE block drilled for turbo
Std. Bore GE pistons
Block HG was surfaced
New Rings
New Bearings
Fel pro Gaskets
Fel-Pro Permatorque MLS headgasket
GTE Head and Cams, HG area was surfaced
New Valve Seals
Flywheel was surfaced
Everything was painted and cleaned
Turbo was not rebuilt only had 1500 miles on it
Wastegate shimmed to 7-1/2 LBS of boost
Cats are gutted
Runs pretty good now and doesnt smoke, has about 700miles on the new engine when I posted this
Here my current setup
GE block drilled for turbo
Std. Bore GE pistons
Block HG was surfaced
New Rings
New Bearings
Fel pro Gaskets
Fel-Pro Permatorque MLS headgasket
GTE Head and Cams, HG area was surfaced
New Valve Seals
Flywheel was surfaced
Everything was painted and cleaned
Turbo was not rebuilt only had 1500 miles on it
Wastegate shimmed to 7-1/2 LBS of boost
Cats are gutted
Runs pretty good now and doesnt smoke, has about 700miles on the new engine when I posted this
Anyone own this car now?
Sold it in feb 07, to a kid who sold it again not to long afterwards.
My new car
1992 Turbo Targa
I got my 92 for $1250 all stock had bhg. I had been looking forever for another soup but couldnt find one cheap enough I could afford and turbo 5spd targa, and settled on an rx7. well about 2 weeks owning the rx7 I decided to look on craigs just for fun and there it was. I couldnt believe it after about 2 years of looking, i finally quit and there it was. So I gathered up the money and the trailer and got it, not the rx7 is sitting in pieces while I work on the soup instead
Sold it in feb 07, to a kid who sold it again not to long afterwards.
My new car
1992 Turbo Targa
I got my 92 for $1250 all stock had bhg. I had been looking forever for another soup but couldnt find one cheap enough I could afford and turbo 5spd targa, and settled on an rx7. well about 2 weeks owning the rx7 I decided to look on craigs just for fun and there it was. I couldnt believe it after about 2 years of looking, i finally quit and there it was. So I gathered up the money and the trailer and got it, not the rx7 is sitting in pieces while I work on the soup instead
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Well new car = TURD! Oh well pretty much everything I buy is a TURD. Glad I got the know how, hook ups, and all the utilities to do it.
Original intentions were to pull the motor freshen it up if it needed it (high mileage) and fix the BHG with a little extras here and there and alot alot alot of cleaning, painting and whatever else needed to be replaced. But its turning out to be a complete engine build.
IT had a slight rattle above 2800 rpm that was dependant on load and it would quit above a certain rpm. I just figured it needed a valve lash. Boy was I wrong when I drained the oil.
This is a slight rattle. not even that noticeable.
Thank GOD for forged cranks, and thank TOYOTA for using them. I can just get away with a first size under cut crank and oversized bearings, if this was a cast crank, it would be a total crank replacement.
So New bearings and crank going to machine shop, rods resized also.
Now Mic the bores, mic the pistons, and determine if they need to be replaced and oversized as well (I still have my .020s from the last build)
Have the block deck surfaced, and it vatted.
Head will get surfaced, valve job, new seals, and a valve lash. maybe some port clean up if I feel up to it.
yay all this dookie and Ill have a nice motor in a turd of a car.
Original intentions were to pull the motor freshen it up if it needed it (high mileage) and fix the BHG with a little extras here and there and alot alot alot of cleaning, painting and whatever else needed to be replaced. But its turning out to be a complete engine build.
IT had a slight rattle above 2800 rpm that was dependant on load and it would quit above a certain rpm. I just figured it needed a valve lash. Boy was I wrong when I drained the oil.
This is a slight rattle. not even that noticeable.
Thank GOD for forged cranks, and thank TOYOTA for using them. I can just get away with a first size under cut crank and oversized bearings, if this was a cast crank, it would be a total crank replacement.
So New bearings and crank going to machine shop, rods resized also.
Now Mic the bores, mic the pistons, and determine if they need to be replaced and oversized as well (I still have my .020s from the last build)
Have the block deck surfaced, and it vatted.
Head will get surfaced, valve job, new seals, and a valve lash. maybe some port clean up if I feel up to it.
yay all this dookie and Ill have a nice motor in a turd of a car.
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Thanks, Glad to have a supra again and not just supra in a tuxedo and some small testicles (sc400 )
Measured my head today, it is 115.75MM so I am going to order the 0.075" cometic HG because Im also sending the block to get decked.
Head is getting checked for flatness and surfaced if it needs it and a valve job....
Also found that ford bronco 4.9L engine mounts will work in place of the expensive toyota ones.
I got a picture Ill post up tonite of them next to each other. The bronco one was $30 and instock at advance auto.
Head is getting checked for flatness and surfaced if it needs it and a valve job....
Also found that ford bronco 4.9L engine mounts will work in place of the expensive toyota ones.
I got a picture Ill post up tonite of them next to each other. The bronco one was $30 and instock at advance auto.
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