grease pilot bearing?
- Thread starter supraian
- Start date
mulipurpose grease. available at any auto parts store. iirc i greased the outside of the race(that touched the crank) and the insied that touched the input shaft.
I'd use High Temp Wheel Bearing grease if I was going to put anything in there as it gets quite hot and anything else will run and possiblt get onto the friction surface making it a non friction surface!
Higher Temp than GP Grease 
!
Most will go to 120c and the better ones 150c.
(and MUCH higher than the peanut butter on my toast)
!Most will go to 120c and the better ones 150c.
(and MUCH higher than the peanut butter on my toast)
your taljin about greasin the bearin to help installtion and removal right?.
i was pretty sure you dont greeze sealed bearings, i just tapped the last on i did in with no greese
i was pretty sure you dont greeze sealed bearings, i just tapped the last on i did in with no greese
I always pull a shield clean em out with solvent then repack them with HTBG replace the shield and then fit! (The grease they ship with is usually low temp GP)
you dont grease sealed bearings, and they generally dont need to be greased for a pressed-fit installatoin either. if anything, i would take a piece of 1000grit sand paper and WD40 and polish the inner race of the crankshaft itself so theres no rust, burrs or pitting that would hinder the installation. i usually do this on the crank snout too, to aid in ease of installation of the TB crank gear and crank pulley itself.
you take the crank nooose and you sandy sandy sandy...
then you sliip the pully on doo dee doo dee doooo
whoops whoopssyy and pully pully floops around takes out the keyway dooo deee dooo deeeooo
and you surve' the toasty crank wid frrryd gearbooxx oill
doonneee weeeee!!
There aint no metal surfaces on a car that don’t need lubrication for easy future removal EXCEPT upper and lower ball joints seating into conical sockets of the spindles. I say everything else you want to come apart easy in the future, LUBE it. I use anti-seize on everything especially on something like a pilot bearing, its just easy and cheap insurance. If you slobber on the nickel antiseize on all your exhaust hard ware, it burns off the oil carrier and leaves all the hardware coated with nickel for easy removal ten years down the road. I have even coated the entire exhaust manifold with it and once the oil burned off the manifold was coated with nickel and had that finish for the next ten years with zero rust
i hate to break it to you allan, but polishing and deburring the crank snout w/ 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper doesnt make the pulley loose. it doesnt take out the keyway either. the reason the keyway gets fucked up is because the crank pulley bolt loosens up. ive seen it happen on 2 motors already and the crank pulley bolt was barely hand tight. in all reality, youd have to sit and sand for about an hour before you remove enough material on the crank snout to actually make ita sloppy fit. trust me, ive done this on every car that i take the crank pulley off of, not just 7M's. the cranks are ferrous metal and develop corrosion due to the humidity in the air alone. if you try to force the timing belt gear and crank pulley on while rust scale is present, you will never be able to get it on easily. the crank pully is NOT an interference fit by ANY means. its supposed to slide on and off.