Going all out now, More supra than supra
- Thread starter phoenix6
- Start date
Turbo. Targa. Life. said:
:evil2: I don't know what you're talking about. :biglaugh:
BTW: If the list of bolts that you are talking about came from the TSRM then I've seen that one already. If it's different though, I'd love to take a peek at it
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Turbo. Targa. Life.
SupraMania Shirt Slinger!
Don't feel bad, I don't even have a Toyota dealer nearby . It's on the web though... You got plenty of ink and paper for your printer :naughty: .
. It's on the web though... You got plenty of ink and paper for your printer :naughty: .
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Ok, simple enough, ARP bolts are not just hype.
They are cold rolled threads v/s cut threads. This leaves the bolt stronger due to the way the threads are "put" into the bolt v/s cut into them. (At least that's what I've been told, and it makes sense metalurgy wise.)
The material used is stronger. That is easy to confirm. (Test the bolts, and see where the material used goes plastic, then fails, and you will see the stock bolts are pretty dang good, but IIRC fail at 70,000psi of pressure where the ARP's are 190,000+ and some are 220,000+ The MK4 bolts are 95k.) Anyone have a link to where Reg R. tested the bolts?
Ok, rod bolts. Again it's all in the material, and how the threads are done. Stronger bolts are better, so spend your money where it counts. (And the stock rods fail in two places. #1 is the rod bolt. #2 is at the shoulder where the oil squirter hole passes through the rod. (Notice your stock rod bearings have holes in them? It's so oil under pressure can squirt out onto the thrust side of the bore.)
If your not going for crazy power, you really don't need the main bolts. The stock ones appear to be fine. (We have a great main and end cap setup from the factory with 7 total bearings to support the crank, so it's pretty dang stout.)
Studs v/s bolts. Answer is simple really.
When you tourqe down a bolt, you have to overcome the friction caused just by turning the bolt, and try and get an accurate reading on how much stretch your inducing in the bolt by tightening it. (This can vary quite a bunch just based on what type of oil you use among other factors like bolt twist, and your bolt threads don't distribute the force into the block very well either.)
Studs are not turning when being tourqed, so you have only a very well made nut that's turning to create the force, and your stud is pulled up evenly against all the threads in the block, spreading out the force to the block very well v/s a bolt. The tourqe readings, and subsequent amount of stretch/force in the studs is very accurate v/s bolts, and generally you can put more force in place without any problems.
So, there is more info to chew on. Have fun with the build There is nothing like running around in a car powered by a motor you built yourself.
They are cold rolled threads v/s cut threads. This leaves the bolt stronger due to the way the threads are "put" into the bolt v/s cut into them. (At least that's what I've been told, and it makes sense metalurgy wise.)
The material used is stronger. That is easy to confirm. (Test the bolts, and see where the material used goes plastic, then fails, and you will see the stock bolts are pretty dang good, but IIRC fail at 70,000psi of pressure where the ARP's are 190,000+ and some are 220,000+ The MK4 bolts are 95k.) Anyone have a link to where Reg R. tested the bolts?
Ok, rod bolts. Again it's all in the material, and how the threads are done. Stronger bolts are better, so spend your money where it counts. (And the stock rods fail in two places. #1 is the rod bolt. #2 is at the shoulder where the oil squirter hole passes through the rod. (Notice your stock rod bearings have holes in them? It's so oil under pressure can squirt out onto the thrust side of the bore.)
If your not going for crazy power, you really don't need the main bolts. The stock ones appear to be fine. (We have a great main and end cap setup from the factory with 7 total bearings to support the crank, so it's pretty dang stout.)
Studs v/s bolts. Answer is simple really.
When you tourqe down a bolt, you have to overcome the friction caused just by turning the bolt, and try and get an accurate reading on how much stretch your inducing in the bolt by tightening it. (This can vary quite a bunch just based on what type of oil you use among other factors like bolt twist, and your bolt threads don't distribute the force into the block very well either.)
Studs are not turning when being tourqed, so you have only a very well made nut that's turning to create the force, and your stud is pulled up evenly against all the threads in the block, spreading out the force to the block very well v/s a bolt. The tourqe readings, and subsequent amount of stretch/force in the studs is very accurate v/s bolts, and generally you can put more force in place without any problems.
So, there is more info to chew on. Have fun with the build
There is nothing like running around in a car powered by a motor you built yourself.
OK I understand the arp thing a little more now, thank you for backing it up, no one else ever has for me.
Also, I know HOW to use plastigauge Im only missing ONE small piece of information, do I put it between crankshaft and bearing or between rodcap and bearing before I torque it down and then measure it?
On the bottom end I know theres numbers for sizes, my rod cap had 2 on it, for this one that had rod knock, so do I tell them I need a specific bearing or is that for something else?
I inspected all of the crankshaft and the remainder of the engine, no damge, no scuffs, no scrapes everywhere.
I wont make another OH NO MY 7M BLEW thread, time for 1jz blah blah, yeah I ran around with options but if it happens again, Ill just do whatever I can do, like I am now. I dont have the money for all of those measuring tools to get this down to a specific meausrement, the CAR means that much to me, this engine, doesnt. TOns of people on here I bet have the same tools aas me if not slightly more, but all that measureing stuff you mentioned? Others have done this in my posistion and their cars are ok, Figit is a good example.
If it happens again, o well, it is my issue, but like I said, I do love the help from everyone with my questions so far. Keep em comin guys, please.
Oh and the thread title GOING ALL OUT, is in suggestion to my long comment on everything, not necesarilly my build up, sorry. I have the engine out so Ill take pics of whats left so far this weekend.
If you guys have any doubts in me, fine, just know this...
1 year ago, I was unsure of how an engine worked entirely, so I taught myself by reading everyting I could.
3 months ago I didnt know how to pull an engine out of the supra to save my life.
Now to today, Ive pulled it, all apart, and the entire engine of where EVERYTHING goes, is mapped in my head, and I know its right.
Im a very fast learning and I retain information well, so I read that TSRM, and all other sources for nights on end with no sleep, Ive literllly soaked it up, so please feel free to hav more confidence.
Also, I know HOW to use plastigauge Im only missing ONE small piece of information, do I put it between crankshaft and bearing or between rodcap and bearing before I torque it down and then measure it?
On the bottom end I know theres numbers for sizes, my rod cap had 2 on it, for this one that had rod knock, so do I tell them I need a specific bearing or is that for something else?
I inspected all of the crankshaft and the remainder of the engine, no damge, no scuffs, no scrapes everywhere.
I wont make another OH NO MY 7M BLEW thread, time for 1jz blah blah, yeah I ran around with options but if it happens again, Ill just do whatever I can do, like I am now. I dont have the money for all of those measuring tools to get this down to a specific meausrement, the CAR means that much to me, this engine, doesnt. TOns of people on here I bet have the same tools aas me if not slightly more, but all that measureing stuff you mentioned? Others have done this in my posistion and their cars are ok, Figit is a good example.
If it happens again, o well, it is my issue, but like I said, I do love the help from everyone with my questions so far. Keep em comin guys, please.
Oh and the thread title GOING ALL OUT, is in suggestion to my long comment on everything, not necesarilly my build up, sorry. I have the engine out so Ill take pics of whats left so far this weekend.
If you guys have any doubts in me, fine, just know this...
1 year ago, I was unsure of how an engine worked entirely, so I taught myself by reading everyting I could.
3 months ago I didnt know how to pull an engine out of the supra to save my life.
Now to today, Ive pulled it, all apart, and the entire engine of where EVERYTHING goes, is mapped in my head, and I know its right.
Im a very fast learning and I retain information well, so I read that TSRM, and all other sources for nights on end with no sleep, Ive literllly soaked it up, so please feel free to hav more confidence.
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the numbers on the bottom of the rod are toyota's reference for balance, if you replace a rod with a 2 on the bottom you should put another 2 there, unless you get everything balanced then it would not matter, they also help indicate the direction the rod will face....... everyone has their learning curve, you start out with 0 knowledge of cars and you learn as you go, the best way to learn and retain information is by experience and hands on, good luck
thank you guys so much for all this support, I dont knwo WHY everyone wants a build thread on this but I1ll make one, Alex (Got_Boost?) is on his way over, well take some pics, gonna clean this shit up.
You put the plastiguage between the crank and the bearing, that's the clearance you want to measure...
And I don't know if what Figit did compares to what you're doing, as he did a headgasket and you are basically doing a partial rebuild...but good luck!
And I don't know if what Figit did compares to what you're doing, as he did a headgasket and you are basically doing a partial rebuild...but good luck!