Go outside and check your crank pulley bolt NOW!

bigaaron

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Or you could end up with this :cry:




This engine ran for a while with a loose crank pulley bolt. The crank pulley, timing belt drive pulley, and the crank are all junk now. This is a new 7m build we just started on for a customer.

The timing belt drive pulley was loose enough to where the engine had self adjusting VTEC! :yelrotflm
 
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IJ.

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I had a junk 7M that had this happen and some genius decided to use DevconA titanium epoxy to fix it......

Took me an entire day and much butchery to remove the front of the motor!
 

GrimJack

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I did that to an engine, too. Put it back together with epoxy, lasted another couple months.

I hear machine shops have a tool to cut another keyway notch in the crank and harmonic damper, usually 180 degrees out, but you would likely need to get it rebalanced after that.
 

bigaaron

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GrimJack said:
I hear machine shops have a tool to cut another keyway notch in the crank and harmonic damper, usually 180 degrees out, but you would likely need to get it rebalanced after that.

I have a special trash can for parts like this! :biglaugh:
 

GrimJack

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bigaaron said:
I have a special trash can for parts like this! :biglaugh:
Agreed - at least for 99.9% of the cases out there.

Especially when you take into consideration that my harmonic wasn't just slightly buggered afterwards - it literally honed out the inside until it was about 6mm too big, the whole thing would rattle back and forth several degrees on the end of the crank.
 
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cnewingham

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That looks like the one I just took out of my car!!! Luckily I had another crank sitting here.
 

bigaaron

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You know the good news? We are going to be getting a brand spanking new 7m-gte shortblock and fully balancing it with the flywheel and resizing the rods with new ARP rod bolts! We are going to carefully measure all the tolerances too so we can see just how good Toyota really makes these shortblocks.
 

souprat

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on the end of the crank near the raidiator. the pully that has all your belts around it. the pully bolt is the bolt holding the pully on the crank. torqued to 195ft/lbs.
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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GrimJack said:
I hear machine shops have a tool to cut another keyway notch in the crank and harmonic damper, usually 180 degrees out, but you would likely need to get it rebalanced after that.

Grim, the tool you're refering to is called a broach. Used to cut straight keyways in pulleys. Not sure it'd work on the crank though as I've never seen a broach that'd cut Woodruffs. Usually need a keyway cutter for that.
 

GrimJack

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jetjock said:
Grim, the tool you're refering to is called a broach. Used to cut straight keyways in pulleys. Not sure it'd work on the crank though as I've never seen a broach that'd cut Woodruffs. Usually need a keyway cutter for that.
Cool! I had no idea what it was called, a friend of mine is a millwright and offered to cut me a new one in my trashed crank. Luckily I had a spare so I didn't bother. :)
 

NashMan

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Aug 5, 2005
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johnathan1 said:
what is the best way to torque the pulley bolt?


3 ways

(getto) impacked gun and just hope it some where around 195

(propper) i make i take some flat bar drill some holes in it bolt 2 fly wheels bolts and 2 trans bolt's then turq away

(propper) if motor is in car that's easy use the e brake or just pop it in gear and use wheel stop so your car don't more this is if you e brake sucks ass
 

jetjock

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Turbo. Targa. Life. said:
with your hands :)

Real men use their teeth ;)

I use an impact gun for removal and a torque wrench calibrated to a lever to install. If you can beg, borrow, or steal a torque multiplier it makes the job a piece of cake. It's the proper tool for a job like that. Ask any pals you know who work on trucks or heavy equpiment. You can also use (with an engine out of the car) a breaker bar with a calculated length extention while standing on a bathroom scale. I'm also a fan of solvent cleaning the bolt and crank threads and using a medium strength anaerobic threadlocker.
 
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