Gm Transmission Kit Oh ya!!

[williamb82]

hmm, reason im asking is my brother seems to think his friend can get me one cheap.(he owns several junkyards) also, itd be going in a mkii not a mkiii. if i can go t56 ill dump the 3.73 for a 4.10. really dont want a 3 speed auto as itd be seriously high rpm's on the highway. as is now i usually cruise ~4k rpm in 5th on the howard franklin. thatd prolly be redline or higher in 3rd on a th350.

 

[Justin727]

that is just AWESOME, very exciting to see keep us updated!!! YUM!!!!

 

[supra_stephe]

Nice to hear it's all coming together. can't wait to see it out and about town.

 

[dbsupra90]

Converter/stall info...[/B]

This is going to vary from one application to the next. Each converter will be built accordingly to what the individual customer needs.

cool thanks grant. thats exactly what i wanted to know.

dave

 

[Tun_x]

I gotta have one

 

[suprarcr89]

Ken, I was typing my previous reply when you posted. Thanks man, if you thought it was a wild ride other weekend....well, I think this will blow that away! lol!

cant wait.....

 

[Pokey]

wow, cant wait to see how she does for ya grant, makes me want to go back to auto or just buy another auto car :icon_bigg

 

[MisterTurbineTwister]

It wouldn't matter if the 700r4 had the same bellhousing bolt pattern as a TH350/400 because that's what the kit would be replacing. It's custom.

If you want O/D, you're going to have to cut or at least air hammer your floor pan for the O/D tailhousing, even with a Gear Vendors unit.

I would love to see an adapter for a Chrysler small block A-727 conversion. Those transmissions are bullet proof! Dick Landy used to race a 1968 Dodge Charger with a 440/727 combo. He would bring the engine up to 5200 RPM in neutral and drop the car into first gear. He would make 3-4 passes on each transmission like this and would pull it for another from his truck full of them.

The small block 727 would fit in place easily in an MKII or MKIII. I have seen an MKII with a 360/727 that ran a 10.4 at 5800 feet above sea level. The guy had to remove the radiator support to install the engine, but it fit under a closed hood without any modifications made to the tunnel or to the engine bay.

The 700R4 shoud work with some minor modifications to the tunnel.

 

[oneandgone]

It wouldn't matter if the 700r4 had the same bellhousing bolt pattern as a TH350/400 because that's what the kit would be replacing. It's custom.

If you want O/D, you're going to have to cut or at least air hammer your floor pan for the O/D tailhousing, even with a Gear Vendors unit.

I would love to see an adapter for a Chrysler small block A-727 conversion. Those transmissions are bullet proof! Dick Landy used to race a 1968 Dodge Charger with a 440/727 combo. He would bring the engine up to 5200 RPM in neutral and drop the car into first gear. He would make 3-4 passes on each transmission like this and would pull it for another from his truck full of them.

The small block 727 would fit in place easily in an MKII or MKIII. I have seen an MKII with a 360/727 that ran a 10.4 at 5800 feet above sea level. The guy had to remove the radiator support to install the engine, but it fit under a closed hood without any modifications made to the tunnel or to the engine bay.

The 700R4 shoud work with some minor modifications to the tunnel.

I was pretty sure that everyone understood it's not the bellhousing bolt pattern on the 700 that matters, it's the pump bolt pattern. I think the pics should have explained that.

I have to disagree on the o/d units not fitting. I also have to disagree on the Gear Vendors unit not fitting. I've already had the 400 in my car once, and there is more spare room around the tailhousing than anywhere else.

That's the beauty of this kit...no need for square peg/round hole butchery. This puts everything into place where it needs to be like it was meant to be there.

O/T, but......Hey, Jeff...Glad to see you here!!

 

[Pokey]

what u talking about, i never left :wavey:

 

[suprarcr89]

its just been awhile since we heard from ya jeff...

 

[outofstep]

must have update

 

[Allan_MA70]

ummm any reason you didnt just upgrade the toyota 4 speed auto? how much HP are we talking about here???

 

[oneandgone]

must have update

I have one for you!!! I installed the trans permanently today. I still need to do all of the plumbing and wiring, along with the shifter, but at least it's in the car. I also measured for the driveshaft and will be ordering it on Monday!! Whoot!!

ummm any reason you didnt just upgrade the toyota 4 speed auto? how much HP are we talking about here???

It runs up to $2500 to upgrade the stock Toyo auto. Add another $1000 to that for a torque converter. Then figure in that it's only rated to 500 hp. Not worth it IMO.

On the other hand the TH-400 I'm installing has been built to handle 1000 hp. It only cost $1500 to have built, and the torque converter is a bit less too. Plus it comes with a transbrake which means I can build tons of boost off the line.

 

[dbsupra90]

thanks for the update grant.

couple points here, not trying to argue.

stock tranny upgrade while not cheap, you pull it off and put it back on. done.

until now, trying to find someone to build an adapter has been like the holy grail. while the initial cost of the tranny build is cheaper, you also have to factor in the rest of the kit along w/ some fab work for the shifter, driveshaft, etc. all said and done its gonna come down to how much the whole kit w/ built tranny is gonna cost vs how much power you plan on putting down. i for one, def looking into the gm over my built toyota

also to note, transbrakes rock, but i wouldnt recommend on a th350. th400 like you have would be a better choice. just thought id point that out.

thanks for you work thus far!

dave

 

[oneandgone]

Dave, it's all good! Thanks for the kind words too!!

I will agree that the d/s, shifter, etc do add a bit to the cost. At the same time though I can retort...

If I were to spend the money to build the stock auto I would also be replacing the stock d/s with an aluminum one. When I swapped my stock auto for the 5-spd I went with the aluminum one for it. That levels it out some I think. I guess not everyone upgrades to an aluminum drive shaft though.

You're correct that if you build the stock auto it is a very direct and simple swap. However if you're planning on making over 500 will it last and be worth it? Seeing as how that's all they're rated to I don't think so. For the 4-450 hp level guys it would probably work just fine and pay off.

Lastly, $1500 for my trans is on the high end. I wanted all the bells and whistles. You can get into one for a lot cheaper, it just won't be quite as tough. Say you're only needing one to hold 500 hp and want the automatic valve body. You could probably have it for around $700, possibly less. If later down the road you need it to hold 800 you can send it in to be upgraded. You don't have to take the whole hit at once.

I gotta say...I can't wait to use the brake. I'm going to do some subframe reinforcing first though, and possibly install a cage too, cash flow permitting.

 

[Allan_MA70]

BUT the standard auto is 4 speed adding an extra gear on a T350/T400 will cost you ALOT more

for drag only use yes fine but with the way fuel prices are going it rules it out for a road car!

the fuel savings over a year would probably make up the extra costs!

GREAT idea, Lovely work but unfortuanely flawed for road use IMHO

 

[chevyeater]

BUT the standard auto is 4 speed adding an extra gear on a T350/T400 will cost you ALOT more

for drag only use yes fine but with the way fuel prices are going it rules it out for a road car!

the fuel savings over a year would probably make up the extra costs!

GREAT idea, Lovely work but unfortuanely flawed for road use IMHO

The yearly rebuild on the A340 will more than surpass the cost of fuel burned without overdrive. A friend of mine has a built A340 and 346 hp to the rear wheels. He needs to rebuild about every 15,000 miles. They aren't poor rebuilds either.

 

[oneandgone]

Allan, you are correct in the fact that more gas will be burnt. I think Chevy said it best, his tow vehicle has o/d. I personally do plan to install a Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive unit eventually. The main reason is b/c I want to drive this car to the Vegas meet and that's a long haul with only 3 gears.

I think Chevy is also correct about the Toyo auto not being reliable enough. It will never be able to harness 6, 7, or 800 hp+, no matter what you do. I wasn't motivated to do this because I have tons of money or time. I was motivated because I'm tired of spending money to keep a trans in this car. I've been through 3 in the last 2 summers and it's getting quite expensive. I just removed what was my fourth, and I have no doubt that it would break in a month if I were to keep using it. I installed it only to go to a couple meets/shows, and get the car from my work to the Speed-Source shop. If I break this TH-400 I'll have to blame operator error! lol!

If it's not for you, or you're not interested that's fine. To each his own. But please, don't knock down what I've personally spent several months and a few thousand dollars to make happen. Besides, if I can get ahold of a 700R I'll put together a kit for it. Then you can have an o/d trans that can reliably support over 500hp, and not need a yearly rebuild! :bigthumb: See, I'm on your side! lol!!

Update!!!

Well, install is nearly complete. I still need to put a couple connectors on the wiring harness, and plug it in. I also still need to finish out my modified console. It's back burner though. Right now I'm concerned with making the car driveable.

I ordered my drive shaft today. It should be done tomorrow and be here by the end of the week. If all goes well and I get some spare time I should be driving it by the end of the week!!

 

[dbsupra90]

points taken grant.
it pretty much comes down to what your hp goals are, what you plan on doing w/ the car, and the money you want to spend. pay to play comes to mind.
also to note cruise rpm and mpg will be heavily effected by how loose the converter is, what rear end you have, and how tall your tire is.
btw- who built your tranny, what stall do you have and you using a manual valve body? what shifter and is it fwd or rev valve?

dave