ok in a nutshell r154 box how do add an oil cooler to it any ideas i have a few but would like a few oppinions from gearbox experienced people no guessing
gearbox planning ahead
- Thread starter group a supra
- Start date
You can't without also intalling a pump. The R-154 is splash lubed.
You could tap the case and run lines to a cooler and back, but the fluid would not move as there's nothing there to push it. Therefore it would not get cooled and would be pointless.
You could tap the case and run lines to a cooler and back, but the fluid would not move as there's nothing there to push it. Therefore it would not get cooled and would be pointless.
Drilled and tapped fittings in the Drain and Fill plugs and a Pump would do it.
Activation could be done a number of ways.
Activation could be done a number of ways.
well 1000hp (hopefully) and i will be doing 500mile runs from the uk through france at constant speeds of over 160mph for up to 15-20mins at a time it kills everthing well did last time
I'd run it temp activated.
You're going to have to run a lighter weight oil as there aren't many electric pumps that will cope with 90 weight
.
(Not to mention towing the tanker adds to the stress)
You're going to have to run a lighter weight oil as there aren't many electric pumps that will cope with 90 weight
.(Not to mention towing the tanker adds to the stress)
IJ. said:I'd run it temp activated.
You're going to have to run a lighter weight oil as there aren't many electric pumps that will cope with 90 weight
(Not to mention towing the tanker adds to the stress)
totally with ya on this one ian sounds good
was thinkin of uprating the oilcooler on the diff as well so same theory will apply what sort of pump you thinkin
I used to run a boat bilge pump for the cooler in the Datto engine with a Viton impeller that worked really well and is 24 hour rated sorry can't remember the brand though....
IJ. said:
well would be cheaper ask some of your grey matter if it can remember the name :biglaugh:
IJ. said:Steve: LOL not a chance that was 15 years and one severe brain injury ago!
fair comment well can anybody else remember the name of ian's bilge pump answers on a post card please @)
:burnout:group a supra said:
I wish I could drive across France at 160MPH for 20 minutes at a time...:evil2:
it is good but last time i had to keep it to 155mph cause it kept over heating over 160 mphmkIIIman089 said:
uhm, get an R160 from a mark IV....... if you have the money to have a 1000 hp motor, why not get a better trans and its 6 speed.group a supra said:
Jeff Lange said:
i agree so r154 it will be as money is very easy to be spent and the budget is pretty well full so gonna run with ians idea which was pretty much what i had in mind
no need to drill and tap holes. the drain plug is on the side of the trans and so is the fil plug. i actually thought of this a year ago myself. put a threaded adaptor in the hole for say 8an line. then use an electric hydraluic pump of some sort to flow it. i have a 1st gen rx7 oil cooler to use as an oil cooler for my car. i bet another one would work well for the trans cooler. then run the return from the cooler into the fill plug on the other side of the engine. i dont see why it wouldnt work. though id be sure to use amsoil 75-90 extreme duty gear oil in it though. im using it in my diff after swapping in a truetrac lsd and it works great. i have reg amsoil 80w-90 in the w58 trans though. im thinking of rebuilding 1 r154 with the upgraded thrust washer another supraforums member said he can get for ~$100 and then the heavy duty bearing retainer they sel on martincrawler and then buy the rebuild kit that runs in the $250 range with all new synchros and whatnot. if that holds up ill be set, if not, im still almost there with the th400 swap, though itll hurt the top end alot plus wouldnt be as fun to drive.
Can you elaborate on this please?
upgraded thrust washer another supraforums member said he can get for ~$100 and then the heavy duty bearing retainer they sel on martincrawler and then buy the rebuild kit that runs in the $250 range with all new synchros and whatnot.
can you post links ?
upgraded thrust washer another supraforums member said he can get for ~$100 and then the heavy duty bearing retainer they sel on martincrawler and then buy the rebuild kit that runs in the $250 range with all new synchros and whatnot.
can you post links ?
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Here is what I did. (I was also looking at the pump/cooler idea, and ended up not going there due to complexity and cost issues.)
I had the trans completely rebuilt. Second gear was shot, so it's brand new. I looked at adding 5th from a toyota truck, but the cost v/s slightly higher top speed, and possibly better highway gas mileage due to the slighlty better overdrive ratio was not worth it either. (You get like.02 better ratio IIRC.)
While the trans was torn down, I deburred all the transmission cases. Sand blasted them, and then coated inside and out with thermal dispersant. (This turns the cases into large surface area oil coolers. According to Techline, doing this to your oil pan acts much like adding an oil cooler, so my oil pan and entire engine is done this way too. LOL)
So, I also coated the infamous first gear thrust washer, and deburred it's sharp edges at the oil groves since it appears those sharp edges are scraping off the oil, and then the thrust surface fails.
I had the rear output housing bushing pressed out, and it was also coated with molydisulfied after being deburred. (oil is fed to this by your transmission design, there is a drip rail, and I modified it to flow well too while I was at it, just basicly make sure all sharp edges are removed, any opening is radioused and things like that.) The Iron beaing carrier is a good point. It has many casting areas that could harbor sand, and I removed all of them, smoothing all the possible stress risers in the process. Then coated it with thermal dispersant.
The final "upgrade was to vent the bell housing better. (Drilled out holes into the front stone shield, and vented the sides better along the way. Also coated them with thermal dispersant to resist rusting after all the work. You could build these out of screen, but I figure the small hole pattern I drilled into it works fine. (air at speed is now blown in over my flywheel/clutch, and that further cools the transmisison. You could add some holes to the bell housing to allow it to vent over the top and sides too, but I did not think about that till later, and I'm not removing it to do this mod since my transmisison does not overheat now as it is.)
Ok, so testing it all out. Drove to Portland from Boise in 100f heat. Up and down mountains, and it was DANG hot. AC blowing all the time. Before when I'd do trips like this, the shifter became so hot it was not comfortable, so clearly the trans was hot.
This time, the shifter stayed cool, and the car ran cool the entire time. (Even at speed a few times, 120mph, it was not moving at all.)
I don't have any temp figures to back it up, but the thermal dispersant coatings really work well on large surface areas like engine blocks and transmisison cases. (And on radiators and coolers, I coated my RX7 oil cooler with it, and it works great.) I ran out of coating, or the intercooler and my fluidyne radiator would be black now too.
Good luck, but the coatings option was cheaper than plumbing in a cooler and pump by far, and has worked fine in my application.
I had the trans completely rebuilt. Second gear was shot, so it's brand new. I looked at adding 5th from a toyota truck, but the cost v/s slightly higher top speed, and possibly better highway gas mileage due to the slighlty better overdrive ratio was not worth it either. (You get like.02 better ratio IIRC.)
While the trans was torn down, I deburred all the transmission cases. Sand blasted them, and then coated inside and out with thermal dispersant. (This turns the cases into large surface area oil coolers. According to Techline, doing this to your oil pan acts much like adding an oil cooler, so my oil pan and entire engine is done this way too.
LOL)So, I also coated the infamous first gear thrust washer, and deburred it's sharp edges at the oil groves since it appears those sharp edges are scraping off the oil, and then the thrust surface fails.
I had the rear output housing bushing pressed out, and it was also coated with molydisulfied after being deburred. (oil is fed to this by your transmission design, there is a drip rail, and I modified it to flow well too while I was at it, just basicly make sure all sharp edges are removed, any opening is radioused and things like that.) The Iron beaing carrier is a good point. It has many casting areas that could harbor sand, and I removed all of them, smoothing all the possible stress risers in the process. Then coated it with thermal dispersant.
The final "upgrade was to vent the bell housing better. (Drilled out holes into the front stone shield, and vented the sides better along the way. Also coated them with thermal dispersant to resist rusting after all the work. You could build these out of screen, but I figure the small hole pattern I drilled into it works fine. (air at speed is now blown in over my flywheel/clutch, and that further cools the transmisison. You could add some holes to the bell housing to allow it to vent over the top and sides too, but I did not think about that till later, and I'm not removing it to do this mod since my transmisison does not overheat now as it is.)
Ok, so testing it all out. Drove to Portland from Boise in 100f heat. Up and down mountains, and it was DANG hot. AC blowing all the time. Before when I'd do trips like this, the shifter became so hot it was not comfortable, so clearly the trans was hot.
This time, the shifter stayed cool, and the car ran cool the entire time. (Even at speed a few times, 120mph, it was not moving at all.)
I don't have any temp figures to back it up, but the thermal dispersant coatings really work well on large surface areas like engine blocks and transmisison cases. (And on radiators and coolers, I coated my RX7 oil cooler with it, and it works great.) I ran out of coating, or the intercooler and my fluidyne radiator would be black now too.
Good luck, but the coatings option was cheaper than plumbing in a cooler and pump by far, and has worked fine in my application.