Galvanized exhaust?
- Thread starter Reign_Maker
- Start date
yes. I made part of mine out of galvanized, works fine, bastard to wweld 'cause it tries to split itself apart from the heat.
it's abit heavier, but my muffler design made up for it, so it's lighter in the end.
make sure you have enough hangers and that there's enough play in them, the stainless will crack/fracture under vibration worse than mild steel will.
it's abit heavier, but my muffler design made up for it, so it's lighter in the end.
make sure you have enough hangers and that there's enough play in them, the stainless will crack/fracture under vibration worse than mild steel will.
I'm just trying to build this with the least cost as I can to get it done... I may just go mild steel and down the road, build a stainless...
I nabbed most of my stainless from a junkyard, they where throwing out some hoppers that had been used in food production, used that to make the muffler, only needed to buy a couple of feet of tube, I think I was done for less than $20 altogether.
Reign_Maker said:I dont think a junk yard will have 3.5" layin around...
don't need pipe to make the muffler, sheet will work fine, get a couple of feet of 3.5" stainless pipe (metal supermarket has no minimum order will be maybe $2-3/foot) and you're rocking and rolling, use sheet to make the muffler and resonance chamber if you're gonna run a rersonator. If you're not planning on it an el cheapo cherry bomb works ok and takes up a buncha space. Don't weld the bomb in tho, it'll rust and you'll need to repllace it later, muffler clamps only on that.
if you build the muffler and or resonator properly, you won't need much in terms of bends, that wicked snakey bastard going around the rear pumpkin is the only one that I needed to have bent.
Junior said:
Maybe where you live...I do it for $25 a foot for piping up to 3" dia and that includes the inside as well. The outside is coated and polished
jdub said:Maybe where you live...I do it for $25 a foot for piping up to 3" dia and that includes the inside as well. The outside is coated and polished
you'll do ceramicing at that price?
if so I have some business for you, how big is your oven?
You can drive a car in it
That price is for piping...depends on what it is for other parts. It's a 2000 deg rated coating.
Sorry Jake - not trying to jack your thread, but if you do have your exhaust ceramic coated, it will not rust regardless of the type of steel...at least so long as you don't scrape it
Exhaust piping is fairly easy to do...you should be able to get it coated for a good price locally. The piping from the downpipe back can be coated with a lower temp rating. I would def have the downpipe coated in a 2000 deg coating though...it gets pretty hot.
That price is for piping...depends on what it is for other parts. It's a 2000 deg rated coating.
Sorry Jake - not trying to jack your thread, but if you do have your exhaust ceramic coated, it will not rust regardless of the type of steel...at least so long as you don't scrape it
Exhaust piping is fairly easy to do...you should be able to get it coated for a good price locally. The piping from the downpipe back can be coated with a lower temp rating. I would def have the downpipe coated in a 2000 deg coating though...it gets pretty hot.
Jake:
I will try and steer you clear of galv pipe or tube.
Its nasty stuff to work with, and after many heat cycles, it becomes brittle.
As some one else already mentioned, its toxic when welded or heated (not sure what temp for heating though).
It produces cyonide (sp?) gas when welded.
I would suggest either aluminized pipe (hell'a cheap) or just go with 409 stainless. It was created by the Arvin corp and is used in alot of OEM auto applications where stainless is required, but also expected to wear out & rust.
I will try and steer you clear of galv pipe or tube.
Its nasty stuff to work with, and after many heat cycles, it becomes brittle.
As some one else already mentioned, its toxic when welded or heated (not sure what temp for heating though).
It produces cyonide (sp?) gas when welded.
I would suggest either aluminized pipe (hell'a cheap) or just go with 409 stainless. It was created by the Arvin corp and is used in alot of OEM auto applications where stainless is required, but also expected to wear out & rust.
STOP IT! OHHHH THE GUILT!!!IJ. said:
Jdub: $25 a foot would run me at least $300 to coat, and its 3.5" with my car being low, you know its gunna scrape...
I wish I knew you when I had my exhaust mani done... Im sure you wouldve done a much better job on it than the dude I payed... Not only did it take me THREE months to get back, it was the WRONG color!!! It was suppose to be that polished look, instead, its aluminum... I may get my DP coated... Does it keep heat in? Like, keep from radiating a lot of heat into the engine bay? Im concerned about the hoses and lines behind the DB... I dont want to use heat wrap... Jon: thanks man... I dont think I'll go with galv... I didnt realize it gave off poisonous gas... Damn...
MDCmotorsports said:
Jake - if that's the case, I'd go with this ^^^
The ceramic on the downpipe will help radiated heat down in the engine bay...the pipe is still going to get hella hot though. The best is a ceramic coat with the wrap...very effective.
I would get a heat resistant tubing for your speedo cable. My downpipe melted mine and trashed it. I wrapped the new cable and put the tubing around it. Same thing for the harness in the EGR area...melted a small hole in my harness and caused all kind of problems when the harness wires shorted out on the intake manifold!
Reign_Maker said:
yes. this is why it's popular in race application. keeping exhaust heat off of your intake charge.