Furginator's build thread

[rfurgy]

Just to show the finished product. I built a hopper on the bottom, a hatch for the end and got all the needed extras for the inside. The blasting kit purchased at Menards as well as the blasting media and some toilet flanges to hold the sleeves. I also picked up a set of heavy Hobart welding sleeves from Farm & Fleet and attached them inside to protect my arms. For the gloves, I've just been using my old pairs of Mechanix gloves.

After all was said and done, I spent about $50-$60 on building this thing for cleaning my parts. Works just as good as a purchased one and considering the price difference, I couldn't go wrong. Definitely some things I would change doing it again but that is a project for another time.

 

[rfurgy]

Here's the balancer. Steps from before to after. Got it all cleaned up and painted to match the block. I also applied some Pledge with a small paint brush onto the urethane dampener to clean and recondition it.

 

[pagii]

LOL I have a 86.5 blue one in wisconsin too!!

 

[rfurgy]

Here's the oil pan, which appears to be from a 7MGTE. Cleaned, painted and installed with new stainless steel hardware.

This was painted with Dupli-Color Etching Primer then with VHT Epoxy paint. Both very good paints and would recommend them to anyone who is painting.

 

[rfurgy]

These were next to be cleaned and painted.

 

[rfurgy]

Here they are after sand blasting.

 

[rfurgy]

Here they are primed and painted.

Seeing how the etching primer and epoxy paint worked so well I decided to continue using them for the remainder of my project.

I have been scuffing the primer on each part so the epoxy paint sticks much better.

 

[rfurgy]

Onward to more brackets. Got these blasted and painted as well. I also took the opportunity to degrease the daylights out of the sub frame.

 

[rfurgy]

Cleaned up the rear timing cover and got new seals installed. I had even put the water pump on but then decided to remove it again to flush out the coolant ports in the block during transport to the work shop. The last picture is of the block with a bell housing from an R154.

The original plan was to just rebuild my W58 but in a weeks time the rebuild kit was no longer available so I hunted down a decent R154 and started the swap which meant the original brackets would not work any more. I'm about to fabricate some custom R154 swap parts shortly after.

 

[rfurgy]

I picked up some metal stock and got to work. I worked at mocking up the mounting points first then joined them with solid bar stock to complete the brackets. The 3rd and 4th pics are of the OEM brackets for the W58 next to the ones I had just fabricated to fit the R154. The last pic is of them painted and also including a custom lower inspection cover I had fabricated.

 

[rfurgy]

Any one who has done the swap also knows the transmission mount bracket from the W58 won't work with the R154 as well. Since I seem to have this "Do it myself if I can" attitude with this project I just fabricated my own. 1st pic is the W58 bracket. 2nd pic is the bracket I fabricated. Once done with that I also needed some service covers for the new bell housing. I formed these by hand using a large cylinder piece of steel clamped in my vice and a ball peen hammer. Once they fit the shape I gave them some paint. The last pic is the transmission installed in the car with all the custom parts. Everything lined up pretty good so no alterations were needed.

 

[rfurgy]

Before I could get the transmission in I needed to install a few things. Here I have a SPEC stage 2 clutch set and a Fidanza 11 lb. aluminum flywheel. I purchased these from JSCSpeed for a good price. Not to mention they have outstanding customer service.

I also ordered ARP fly wheel bolts and a set of Toyota pressure plate bolts from Driftmotion. Oh, almost forgot, also ordered a clutch fork, clutch hub, and a braided slave cylinder hose from these guys. Good products at good prices.

 

[rfurgy]

Luckily the '87 had the R154 drive shaft with it. I pulled it apart, cleaned it, painted it, and installed some new Brute Force U-joints.

 

[rfurgy]

Anyone who's done drive shaft work on these knows that the carrier bearings are an issue. First off is availability. Then if you find one, you will pay out the nose for it. On top of that, they aren't very strong when it comes to the urethane quality and design.

The 2nd pic is a carrier bearing from a '78 Ford Bronco II. This is the only one I was able to find with the same bearing I.D. As you can see the housing is a bit too wide. The bearing itself is also slightly wider than the OEM but still makes a pretty close and clean mate to the drive shaft.

The 3rd pic shows some slits I cut into the housing in order to close in the overall gap. I also had to trim a miniscule amount off of the urethane on each corner to get it to fit the housing after it was modded.

4th pic is the bearing mocked to the car with a support bracket I made for the underside and the 5th is the completed carrier bearing installed with the front half of the drive shaft.

If this works out as good as it seems, then I will have saved myself $230 and end up with a stronger carrier than OEM.

 

[CyFi6]

Unfortunately, I tried using the bearing from a ranger (looks to be the same one) and picked up a pretty terrible vibration... I since put a Toyota bearing on order and will get it installed/get the shaft balanced, hopefully that takes care of everything for a while!

Keep the pics coming BTW, you do very nice/clean work!

 

[rfurgy]

I removed the ACIS system so I no longer needed the canister and VSV for it. I also removed the EVAP canister and ABS from the car.

The 4th pic is what the brake fluid looked like after draining some out of the car. Brake fluid is made to change color according to water contamination. I'm surprised the car was still stopping. Figured it was as good a time as any to replace the master cylinder because of the system contamination. I also replaced the clutch master cylinder while I was at it. I then replaced the bleeders and flushed the system out with new DOT 4 brake fluid.

 

[rfurgy]

I'm hoping the bearing will work for now. It was experimental from the start so only driving it will tell. If I end up having to get an OEM one then I will nix the two piece all together and get a one piece racing drive shaft.

 

[rfurgy]

I also did an overhaul on the head. I found out that it was actually painted silver (???). Ok, it is what it is, so I used some Aircraft stripper to get the paint off. I then used lots of degreaser sprayed through an engine washing nozzle that hooks up to an air compressor. It was fairly inexpensive at the local Menards and worked good for power washing. * A face shield, gloves and scrubby clothes are recommended * I then finished of the clean by power washing it with mineral spirits (I've found that this does really well at cleaning aluminum and will even brighten it in most cases).

I lapped the valves into each seat and installed new seals while I was at it then got it all back on top of the motor. Assembly lube is a must!

* For anyone who does valve jobs on DOHC motors, there is a tool that Lisle makes that makes removing and installing them stupid easy. Lisle LIS36050 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer Kit. You easily remove and install the keepers with this tool in a matter of moments and save yourself a lot of time and headache. *

 

[rfurgy]

Pic 1 is the tool I mentioned earlier that was used for power washing the cylinder head.

2 & 3 are of the igniter/ignition coil and of the cruise control. Both systems were removed from this build.

Pic 4 is a box full of extra parts left over. I know I'm suppose to end up with extra parts but this is ridiculous.

Last pic is of the now empty corner where the ABS and EVAP canister were sitting.

 

[rfurgy]

I decided to paint the lower and upper timing covers. I also used a piece of cut to fit mirror for the lettering background and some vinyl stick on letters.

Hopefully they will stick, if not then I will need to come up with a plan B. At least it looks good for now. :icon_bigg