How often the fuel relay gone bad? I remember most of the time I have to replace the fuel pump but never fuel relay. I got a 92GTE car, turning but won't start. Already checked timing, CPS and all and the problem is there is no fuel. Already bought a fuel pump, just wonder what you guys opinion about the fuel relay. Thanks!
Fuel relay, fuel pump
- Thread starter Volvospy
- Start date
Well, it should be pretty easy. Pull the fuel pump access hole cover in the hatch area, plug in your multimeter, and see if you have voltage when you cycle the key, or try starting.
Your car should have multiple relays in the passenger side kick panel. Pull one of them and swap it for the one in the fuse box next to the battery. I can't say if this could be the problem with your car, but I did a swap not to long ago, and the fuel pump would not kick on. So I started messing with the main relay and nooticed that when I tapped it the fuel pump would kick on. Now remember its a 2jzgte swap and might not pertain to your situation. I couldn't figure out why it was doing this. It turned out to be a weak battery. I fully charged the battery and the problem went away. Iike I said it might not pertain to your situation, but I just thought I'd share it with you.
jetjock;1943216 said:
Not sure why that was hard to understand, but I will try again since I just woke up from a nap. I was very tired, and that may have not made sense lol.
Pull the cover in the hatch to access the fuel pump wiring, unplug the plug that goes to the fuel pump. Plug in one lead of the multimeter (or test light) into the positive side, plug in the other to the negative side. Set your multimeter to voltage, and watch it as you cycle the key, or crank the engine over. It will trigger the relay to come on if it is working right, and should show voltage if it is indeed working right (9-12v I believe if you still have the resistor).
This is just to diagnose if the relay/wiring to the pump is working right, and should isolate the problem as being the pump if you do not have voltage back at the plug for the pump.
mkiiichip;1943263 said:
This is why I said you may need to crank it. You could also jumper the FP to B+ in the diagonists box under the hood by the fuse box.
IMO this is a much easier and more efficient way to isolate the problem. If you have voltage at the fuel pump wires at the fuel hat, it is obviously the pump or the wires going into the fuel hat. If it does not have voltage work your way back through the circuit to see if you have voltage.
The way I was taught to do electrical work is to check to see if you have voltage at the main source. Then go to the load. Then if it is neither of those, try the switches, or relays, or other items in the circuit. This way has yet to fail me working on an electrical problem.