I just hooked back up my entire harness and I connected the battery cables, and my Fuel pump relay is clicking continuously. Is it shot?
Thanks,
Ryan
Thanks,
Ryan
Fuel Pump Relay Clicking
- Thread starter Obsessionw/Boost
- Start date
Define fuel pump relay. If a relay clicks it's usually good but if it's clicking at the wrong time that's not a good thing. Old harness? New? If new same model year as old?
Well, I did a Cometics MHG with ARP Studs. I got a 3 angle valve job and reconditioned head. I put on a low mileage CT26. I removed the entire engine harness from the car because a few of the plugs needed some work. The knock sensors had to be re-wired as well as a few plugs the lead to the water housing.
In the process of putting my car back together, I had a friend help me with little things. For example, I told him to hold the elbow and downpipe back as I mounted the turbo to the manifold, ETC.
Well, anyways, I drained the oil and put the drain plug back in. Then I went into my garage to get some oil. I told him to put the battery back in and connect it. He connected the negative to the positive and vice versa. He didn't hold the negative to the positive for very long but when he did, the relays started clicking. I checked the junction box and I replaced the relay that is labeled "Head", and "Main". They don't make the clicking noise any longer. Now just the fuel pump relay makes the clicking.
This is after we took the battery out and connected it properly.
I kinda blame myself because he's not very mechanically inclined. =/ This was my fault, I should have just done it myself.. I thought he would've noticed that all the words on the battery were upside down..
So I'm assuming I need a fuel pump relay?
-Ryan
In the process of putting my car back together, I had a friend help me with little things. For example, I told him to hold the elbow and downpipe back as I mounted the turbo to the manifold, ETC.
Well, anyways, I drained the oil and put the drain plug back in. Then I went into my garage to get some oil. I told him to put the battery back in and connect it. He connected the negative to the positive and vice versa. He didn't hold the negative to the positive for very long but when he did, the relays started clicking. I checked the junction box and I replaced the relay that is labeled "Head", and "Main". They don't make the clicking noise any longer. Now just the fuel pump relay makes the clicking.
This is after we took the battery out and connected it properly.
I kinda blame myself because he's not very mechanically inclined. =/ This was my fault, I should have just done it myself.. I thought he would've noticed that all the words on the battery were upside down..
So I'm assuming I need a fuel pump relay?
-Ryan
So your pal connected the cables backwards? Lol, a "minor" detail you should have mentioned before. Which relay is clicking, the one on the right fender or the one in the passenger side footwell? And it does this with the key off? Do you get a CEL with the key on? Codes? You see where I'm going with this?
The relay that is clicking is the one with the yellow plug and it is nearby the tems plug. It's located halfway down the side of the passenger side fender. I don't get any light when the key is on. Nothing on the dash will light up. First thing tomorrow morning, I am going to swap out my gauge with my old one and see if it works. I have not checked any codes yet. I will try to swap my fuel pump relay with another one from a friends Supra. If the clicking does not occur, I will assume it was my relay gone bad.
If none of this works, I will proceed to codes. Thanks Jetjock. Your help is much appreciated, as always :icon_bigg.
-Ryan
If none of this works, I will proceed to codes. Thanks Jetjock. Your help is much appreciated, as always :icon_bigg.
-Ryan
jetjock said:
Uh, how are you gonna check codes if nothing on the dash lights up? That's the fuel pump speed control relay on the fender. It's controlled by the ECU. I can assure you changing it will not help. Your lack of dash lights tells me you have multiple problems but the lack of a CEL along with the fuel pump relay implies your ECU has been damaged. Lets hope I'm wrong. Check all the fuses in the driver's side footwell too.
Over the period of time that my car was laid up, I switched my Turbo cluster with an N/A cluster. Now the entire thing won't light up. I checked all the fuses in the driver side footwell, and they are all good. I don't think the ECU was damaged because I never took it out. It was not connected when my friend connected the wrong leads. The ECU never came out of the glove comp. throughout the entire process. It isn't the gauge either. The gauge worked in the car I got it from. My park lights don't work either; but my headlights do. I know that the park lights, cluster lights, and radio run on the same fuse. I checked that fuse and it is fine.
jetjock said:
oh that clicking that means that there are not enf grounds make sure all grounds are connected ie the one on the back of the intake manfold and the big bunch of grounds under the intake manafold that should fix it
and next time don't let you're friend hook up the batt
and next time don't let you're friend hook up the batt
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Make sure you check the 100 Amp Alt fuse in the box behind the battery. Check the ECU fuse in the same box while you are there.
I don't think I have any grounds connected to the intake manifold. Those 2 wires are supposed to be grounded to the intake manifold or the starter?
I have them grounded to the starter right now. I haven't attempted to start the car or anything, so I haven't damaged it. One wire is white and one is brown.
I have them grounded to the starter right now. I haven't attempted to start the car or anything, so I haven't damaged it. One wire is white and one is brown.
ATL88Supra said:
ECU Not connected? Sigh. For someone asking for electrical help you sure leave out pertinent details. Why would you decide to connect the battery with the ECU disconnected?
Anyway, lucky you. It's going to either be what ALT said (grounding) or there's nothing wrong at all. It's just feedback and plugging the ECU in will fix it. The grounds on the intake manifold are for the ECU so be sure they're connected because you're obviously going to need them at some point.
Anyway, lucky you. It's going to either be what ALT said (grounding) or there's nothing wrong at all. It's just feedback and plugging the ECU in will fix it. The grounds on the intake manifold are for the ECU so be sure they're connected because you're obviously going to need them at some point.
Sorry for leaving out the important stuff. I really appreciate all you guys trying to help me, and I don't know where I would be without you all. I guess I'm panicking because I've done so much work and I feel like I'm so close. I'm getting too anxious, and its causing me to stumble.
I'm confused as to which grounds there are on the intake manifold. I know there are two ground wires that are there. One wire is white and one wire is brown. These wires must be grounded anywhere on the manifold or is there a specific spot?
A million thanks going to all of you guys for taking the time out to help me.
-Ryan
I'm confused as to which grounds there are on the intake manifold. I know there are two ground wires that are there. One wire is white and one wire is brown. These wires must be grounded anywhere on the manifold or is there a specific spot?
A million thanks going to all of you guys for taking the time out to help me.
-Ryan
jetjock said:
The manifold is where they go and there should be more than what you're claiming to have.The starter is not a wise choice because although it may work you're likely to have problems later on. Mine are connected directly to the battery by added wiring.
You can't be indiscriminately swapping clusters. The printed wiring on them are not the same in some cases. Slow down and do one thing at a time. I hate to say it but something tells me we're going to be hearing a lot from you in the near future...
You can't be indiscriminately swapping clusters. The printed wiring on them are not the same in some cases. Slow down and do one thing at a time. I hate to say it but something tells me we're going to be hearing a lot from you in the near future...
There are 5 wires I just grounded to the intake manifold. 3 Brown ones with black dots, and then 2 White ones with black tracers. There are only two "spade" or "circle" connectors that you ground. That is why I said 2 wires, when in actuality there are 5 wires. The connector I am talking about is the connector you put aroundthe bolt when you ground it. I don't know the correct name for those.
I am going to remove the N/A Cluster now. The reason I did it is because I am going with an Auto Meter Sport comp Boost gauge. I had the N/A gauge lying around, so I just figured I would use that one since it had a voltmeter. The cluster is out of another 88.
Sorry for the mistakes. Thanks for bearing with me.
-Ryan
I am going to remove the N/A Cluster now. The reason I did it is because I am going with an Auto Meter Sport comp Boost gauge. I had the N/A gauge lying around, so I just figured I would use that one since it had a voltmeter. The cluster is out of another 88.
Sorry for the mistakes. Thanks for bearing with me.
-Ryan
My motor... The bay dirty right now..Grease and oil all over.. Gonna clean it once it starts running.
Thats the ground.
Did I ground it properly? Is that where it is supposed to be?
Unable to view the pic in a larger format but that looks right. On the manifold, not the starter. Assuming you get the electrical problems resolved when ready plug everything in, turn the key on and jumper the fuel pump to inspect for leaks. Then pull the EFI fuse and crank the engine to get some oil in it. Replace the fuse then start it up and eyeball it for good oil pressure and problems like vacuum, coolant, oil leaks, ect. If none allow it to fully warm up and set ignition timing. After that you can resolve any running problems and check for codes.
Obsessionw/Boost said:
My motor... The bay dirty right now..Grease and oil all over.. Gonna clean it once it starts running.
Thats the ground.
Did I ground it properly? Is that where it is supposed to be?
those are correct the big thick one mounts on the manafold where that bolt point is in the center i cant tell from the picture on top if you did it right but the bottom is correct