Fuel Pulsation Damper & Turbo Oil Feed Question

[Kai]

For the fuel pulsation damper - i'm guessing it's either 19 or 22mm, but without a set of calipers, i can't measure (i have no idea where they are).

Also - i just CANNOT fathom how to remove the oil feed bolts for the CT26 - i've removed the union bolt next to the oil pressure sender without issue...but the ones that feed the turbo, from underneath, i can't see it, or get at it, and from the top, i can't see it either. Is this a case of 'get 14mm socket in there, scrape knuckles and do it blind...?

 

[Poodles]

Remove the other end on the fuel pulsation dampener (I didn't disturb the fuel rail parts at all IIRC), and leave the oil and coolant lines attached to the turbo. With the bango bolt off the feed on the block and the 2 nuts off the drain it will slide right off with the turbo.

 

[Kai]

Poodles - the FPD won't swivel out the way to get the last fuel rail bolt out, otherwise i'd leave it in :/

The banjo bolt is off, but the oil FEED is connected at BOTH ends. I can't remove EITHER end for lack of space...or unable to FIND them.

 

[Poodles]

The feed is the banjo, the large pipe (the drain) has a flange with 2 studs on the block.

You can see what I mean here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=TC&P=9

The FPD I think I might have taken an adjustable wrench to. I know it sucks but my tools are fairly limited.

 

[Kai]

Yeah its the one with two studs on the block i can't even see or get at. I thought i'd be able to remove it on the turbo side of things but again, DENIED.

 

[TomFraser]

I usually remove the turbo lines from the actual turbo, instead of removing them from the block. If you get under the car and look right up at the bottom of the turbo you should see where the two 12mm nuts are.

First thing is to remove the wastegate actuator from the turbo so it moves freely, this will allow you to get at both of them easier.

Next thing is put a ujoint on the 12mm socket with a bunch of extensions and go at it from behind the bar going across the bottom of the car. It takes practice, but I can pull a turbo in less than 20 minutes after all the times I've done it now. If my instructions weren't clear enough please let me know so I can get more specific, my car is on jackstands right now too, so I can take pictures of my extension setup if you need them.

 

[Kai]

Yeah i can see them from underneath, but i don't have a long enough extension, or a UJ that's stiff enough. With the 3" and 6" extension, the UJ and a 12mm deep reach socket, it's SO CLOSE, but i can't turn the ratchet. How does one remove tha actuator - beyond removing the two bolts?

 

[supra90turbo]

From memory I believe the FPD is a 19mm and can be quite a bear to remove without damaging yourself on the intake manifold...

I bought a set of crows-foot sockets for the turbo oil drain. They work good. Time consuming but it's easier than using a wrench up there and less frustrating.

Pic shown for style, not size... IIRC it's a 12mm or 14mm you need.

 

[Poodles]

The problem with undoing the oil lines from the turbo is that the gasket is a bit unique and special compared to the ones on the block, and a leak there sucks ass. I used and extension to a swivel, then another extension to get around the turbo to take those nuts off.

 

[shaeff]

I also used a Crow's foot to get up at those bolts. Worked great.

However, the if you're going to be removing/replacing the turbo, pull the lines from the block. I'm with Poodles- that gasket isn't something you want to mess up installing.

 

[TomFraser]

However, the if you're going to be removing/replacing the turbo, pull the lines from the block. I'm with Poodles- that gasket isn't something you want to mess up installing.

A new one is 5 dollars from toyota, because I did fuck the old one up. I then had an oil leak from there that would be blown back by the clutch fan, confusing me of it's source. That was not fun at all. I am getting truly good at pulling the turbo though, it's now a quick painless job for me

One tip I have is no matter how you remove the oil lines, DO NOT FUCKING BEND THEM. If they get out of shape in anyway it is a pain to correct it.

I don't know what the French equivalent of Harbor Freight Tools is, but I went there and bought 10 feet worth of different extensions for about 22 dollars. The way I see it is they are only extensions, and If i'm extending them 10 feet then it won't be seeing much torque. My next purchase extensionwise is the adjustable extensions by snapon, I'm hoping someone comes out with a knockoff soon.

 

[Kai]

Got it off with a long reach 12mm socket and a 6" extension, with the turbo actuator bolts removed to give me some more room - putting it back on might be...er...'fun'

 

[Poodles]

Nah, those are easy, it's the banjo bolt that sucks...

 

[Kai]

Looks easy enough for me, there's nothing there on that side (remember, stripping head). I did however remove all the oil and water feed pipes to the turbo, and just as well, because the gasket on the water feed was...not there. held in with FIPG. The oil feed side of things crumbled to dust in my fingers and was definitely the cause of at least ONE leak.

 

[Drake69]

Subscribing to this as well.

 

[metaphysico]

FWI if your u-joint socket is not stiff enough as is the case with most of the square joint ones wrap the joint with electrical tape, this will give it some stiffness and still allow it to be flexible. Or for $30 you can get a good ball socket swivel that will be well worth the money as it will never bind and the spring inside keeps it in the position you move it to.