I have a '89 7MGTE stock. Runs normal with no boost, as soon as it starts to boost it bogs and continues until I stop boosting and then runs fine again.
Fuel problem?
- Thread starter AlexMK386
- Start date
That is your vacuum at idle? Check your codes and report back. This can be many things from an AFM to TPS.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=23
Read that page and the two after it.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=23
Read that page and the two after it.
I have checked the codes. (Turn the ignition switch ON. Do not start engine. Using SST,connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the check connector.) and everytime, the code reader comes back and tells me that there are no codes presently stored in DTC's.
....When I first go to start the engine. There is no engine light. (While in park), I rev. the engine, turbo spools and the engine light appears,stays on until the engine is shut off. It does this everytime. P.S. The engine light does not blink at all.
....When I first go to start the engine. There is no engine light. (While in park), I rev. the engine, turbo spools and the engine light appears,stays on until the engine is shut off. It does this everytime. P.S. The engine light does not blink at all.
Driving with the problem...[video=youtube;o5-LbuYu09U]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5-LbuYu09U[/video]
---------- Post added at 03:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:30 PM ----------
That fluttering is not the wind, it is the supra....
---------- Post added at 03:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:30 PM ----------
That fluttering is not the wind, it is the supra....
I dunno what "code reader" you're using but the MIL should do something when in diag mode. Furthermore if the light comes when *not* in diag mode a code has be set. And if the light stays on until the key is cycled that stored code is very likely to be 52. However a 31 wouldn't surprise me either...
I think we may have the same symptom... but I'm not throwing a 31 code... I'm popping a 43 & 52... but ur video shows similar tach respnse... will not run above 3k rpm... shit hits a wall... car would misfire and jerk... (fall on it's face) @ that point I'd ease off the throttle... wouldn't want 2 blow or damage anything else. AlexMK... lmk if u find any answers... I'll do the same if I should find any as well.
I'm keeping log of everything I do, as well as pics. And the whole thing about the misfire and jerking, it will only do that under boost no matter how many psi, 1psi or 6 psi. As long as I drive it without boosting it's fine. Response well and everything... IDK, I'll just to keep on going and I'll let you all know what I find...
---------- Post added at 10:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:29 AM ----------
That is one of the first things I replaced when I started to have this problem...as well as the checking and replacing the spark plugs,testing the coil pack,looking over all the vac. lines and wiring as best I could see,air filter,oil change,A340E filter and B&M fluid with a B&M AT cooler,Royal Purple Diff. 80w90 fluid,New OE radiator,that included a good flush and clean,(with out taking the engine out and doing it that way). And when I got it there where some heater hose's that where leaking ,so I ordered the Mishimoto heater hose kit...just have not put them in yet,while I was waiting for the mail I got heater hose from OReilly's.
I know most of that probley has nothing to do with my current problem, just letting you know what I have done so far...
---------- Post added at 10:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:29 AM ----------
That is one of the first things I replaced when I started to have this problem...as well as the checking and replacing the spark plugs,testing the coil pack,looking over all the vac. lines and wiring as best I could see,air filter,oil change,A340E filter and B&M fluid with a B&M AT cooler,Royal Purple Diff. 80w90 fluid,New OE radiator,that included a good flush and clean,(with out taking the engine out and doing it that way). And when I got it there where some heater hose's that where leaking ,so I ordered the Mishimoto heater hose kit...just have not put them in yet,while I was waiting for the mail I got heater hose from OReilly's.
I know most of that probley has nothing to do with my current problem, just letting you know what I have done so far...
My car was doing this but only at wot if I backed off slightly it would run fine...also getting code 52 my car is down for a build right now and I will be replacing knock sensors and wires while she is hood up (hoping that will solve it)
Ps. I have checked timing and its where it should be
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Ps. I have checked timing and its where it should be
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Ok, So false alarm. LOL. Turns out that she had a big boost leak right off the turbo before the intercooler. But I am still reading out a OBD code 52 and 34, I'll deal with those later.:evil2:
Now I want to work cleaning the engine bay up,(wiring,Vac. lines, ect.) And then move on to bolt on's...:love:
Thank you guys for your words, I learned alot about my Supra.:icon_bigg
Now I want to work cleaning the engine bay up,(wiring,Vac. lines, ect.) And then move on to bolt on's...:love:
Thank you guys for your words, I learned alot about my Supra.:icon_bigg
Well, code 34 you have fixed, but having a code 52 puts you in limp mode with very conservative timing.
Got her running again... vacuum hoses checked out fine... I had inspected wires to tps, cps, isc sensors & they looked fine. The only thing I had done differently was de-tune my e-manage & reset my base timing. The car is running rich and when she mis fires the ecu senses the knock & tries to correct itself which I am assuming might of put the ecu into limp mode when no real corrections have been made and continued driving of the car. After changing, my plugs I did notice timing had been advanced plus fouled plugs had also played a roll since the car hasn't had an official tune. What electronics are u running in the car. If u have anything altering ur timing signal... that could also b a cause... as in my case.
88boosted1;1691322 said:
You assume wrong.
Btw how is it you can write fairly complex words but not simple ones? Some sort of cognitive impairment? If so does it also effect your ability to diagnose automotive problems?
A misfire does not equal knock, and a code 52 means the knock sensor system is down, it is not sensing, and therefore will run very conservative timing to guarantee knock is not an issue.