Fuel Pressure Damper Assembly

[CrawdadSupra87]

:1zhelp: I have a visible fuel leak from this part called the Fuel Pressure Damper Assembly, part number 23270-42010. I don’t know how to post the picture on the board so I will try my best to describe its location on the car. It’s located near the back fire wall on the driver side. Also it’s near the driver side Valve cover. The part has a head on it which is plastic. I went to the dealer and purchased the part to change out on my vehicle.
The problem I have is unscrewing the Damper. It is very tight and in a tight position. So I brought a 22 mm stub wrench, and this doesn’t work. Is there a special tool that will loosen this part? Or is it under pressure and if so how do I release it so I can take it loose.
Thank you for your help!!

 

[theDon]

it's a tough one to crack I remember doing that. I'd say keep at it and pray you don't loose a knuckle when it finally breaks loose

 

[lagged]

just put a wrench on there and use a hammer.

 

[Stretch]

Also try spraying some lubricant on there like wd40 or something, if you haven't already.
eric

 

[GrimJack]

just put a wrench on there and use a hammer.

Agreed. Sharp impacts are much better for breaking loose stiff fasteners.

 

[shaeff]

i agree. i slapped that puppy with a hammer. came right off.

-shaeff

 

[Supraholic]

I used this:

Craftsman Wrench, Crowfoot

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00943639000

The link is for illustration purpose only.. I dont remember the size I used.. may be 21mm. This tool works just perfect to remove the damper..

 

[CrawdadSupra87]

:1zhelp: I have a visible fuel leak from this part called the Fuel Pressure Damper Assembly, part number 23270-42010. I don’t know how to post the picture on the board so I will try my best to describe its location on the car. It’s located near the back fire wall on the driver side. Also it’s near the driver side Valve cover. The part has a head on it which is plastic. I went to the dealer and purchased the part to change out on my vehicle.
The problem I have is unscrewing the Damper. It is very tight and in a tight position. So I brought a 22 mm stub wrench, and this doesn’t work. Is there a special tool that will loosen this part? Or is it under pressure and if so how do I release it so I can take it loose.
Thank you for your help!!

:icon_bigg :icon_bigg :icon_bigg Thanks to all that responded and read my post. After few bangs and WD40 she came loose. I really appreciate it. My 87 Supra has been setting up since April last year due to the rack and pinion breaking away from the sub-frame. So one promise to due the job, started it and just left it undone in my Garage. I finally got up enough nerves and did the job my self. The Fuel pressure damper assembly was an added task. Now it complete with you guys help now to the rear suspension and I should be back on the road this weekend. Thank again and again. Kevan

 

[theDon]

If you had mentioned you were going for a fuel system "upgrade" (550's/LexAFM/Walbro) I would have suggested replacing the stock FPD with the FPD SS line/J-tube block/AFPR mods rather than spending $$ on a stock FPD replacement. Just thought I'd throw that in there.

 

[Anomili]

Just thought I would post this as I consider it a gift from the gods when removing rusted / sticking parts:

Even though the problem was solved... if you don't ahve one I'd recommend it.

 

[theDon]

anomili I've found that metal head hammers work way better than rubber/plastic solid or ones with the weights in it. Those seem to dampen the shock when tapping wrenches to break stuck nuts... was night and day in my experience.

 

[CrawdadSupra87]

If you had mentioned you were going for a fuel system "upgrade" (550's/LexAFM/Walbro) I would have suggested replacing the stock FPD with the FPD SS line/J-tube block/AFPR mods rather than spending $$ on a stock FPD replacement. Just thought I'd throw that in there.

I am interested if it's something that will better my Supra experience. I am new to this bear with my understanding it all. My vehicle has over 200K miles on it. So I am kind of scared to upgrade now. Maybe I should rebuild the engine before...etc.

 

[theDon]

yeah maintaining a 200k engine is much better idea than modding it - you are on the right path and learning for future projects.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

not to hijack but im intrested in removing mine, im just finishing up my rebuild, i would like to set up a dual feed, put one line where the stock inlet and dampner was, and one line where the stock regulator was, then i guess i would put the regulator where the cold start injector was but i wana retain cold start injector, how have people gone about doing this, would i have to drill and tap the rail?

 

[wingman]

not to hijack but im intrested in removing mine

same here...I assume that you can just remove it if you have an AFPR, 550's, and a walbro. Plus mine happens to be leaking as well. Anybody know offhand an interchangeable part number for another banjo bolt so that I can just screw one out and put the other in?

 

[Red Dragon]

^^^^^^^ Exactly.

Rubber mallets or dead blow hammers are a MUST

 

[Alang]

Great Removal tool = BASIN WRENCH
= an adjustable crowfoot
This is a plumber's tool that I must have seen used as I remembered it and asked a plumber when I had the problem currently. Couldn't get an easy read on the FPD bolt size, couldn't find a reasonable priced adjustable crowfoot, was left out to lunch until I remembered the basin wrench. They are about $10+/- at home supply stores.

http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-P...skwcid=TC|16340|basin wrench||S|e|17343728501

 

[Maple191]

Why did you revive a 6 year old thread? For shame!