Front subframe bushings tigthening sequence /method

[alcyon]

Hi guys. I am swapping out my stock subframe bushings that has hardened and sagged with a set of Ronnie K softest bushings. Right now I am facing an issue where the only one original rubber top hat is making contact with the subframe "lip" but the rest of the 3 rubber top hat is not touching the subframe lips. I wonder if i am tightening it wrongly in sequence or perhaps there is some method that i dont know of. I have already torqued them all yet I see gaps on 3 top hats.

 

[supraguy@aol]

I believe that there was an issue with the steel sleeves being slightly too long, and people were cutting them down by like a 1/4". I think I may have had to do this as well- can't recall. I put my orange RK bushings in about a decade ago.

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

I still have to do this job. Not looking forward to it exactly...
Did you run into any other issues?

 

[alcyon]

I still have to do this job. Not looking forward to it exactly...
Did you run into any other issues

I made the mistake of allowing the subframe to go down all the way to the floor. I should have placed something underneath the subframe to keep it lifted a few inches of the ground, that would help tremendously with sliding my standard jacks underneath to lift the subframe up when installing. , also i advise not inserting the center collars into the bushings before raising the SF in. You will have a hell of a time trying to align the lower arms to shock bottom and aligning all 4 bushings. Without the collars in this would be easier. So in essence, fit the poly bushings with the top hats, lift up the subframe, align the lower arms to both shocks, put in both shocks lower bolts , then with the four studs from above inside the bushings centers, try inserting the collars one by one. Use the collars to center the subframe bushings to the studs, then jack up evenly .
As for myself, i will be loosening all 6 bolts and then try to center and check for the collars and top hats for binding, free them up and retighten little by little as evenly as possible. Lets see how it goes.
this guy has a great video, but i did it a little differently as i cant keep my hood open where i park my car.

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

I'm still debating on whether to pull the engine or not. Leaving it in place will definitely be a lot less work. I also have a spare sub frame and steering rack already so I can complete that ahead of time. This didn't look terrible but I'll have to do some measurements to make sure everything is correct.

 

[alcyon]

I'm still debating on whether to pull the engine or not. Leaving it in place will definitely be a lot less work. I also have a spare sub frame and steering rack already so I can complete that ahead of time. This didn't look terrible but I'll have to do some measurements to make sure everything is correct.

I placed the toyota jack with a piece of wood to support the front of the sump. when re installing the steering rack i needed to support the rear of the sump and remove the front sump jack otherwise it was blocking the rack. I say leave the engine in.

 

[steve_mk3]

I removed 2mm from the spacers on mine

 

[Piratetip]

Sounds like Ronniek didn't make them right.

 

[alcyon]

Sounds like Ronniek didn't make them right.

Its finally in since last week, but the only thing i disagree about his front bushings is reusing the old top hats. There should be new poly tops made, like other makes such as strongflex. The upper bushes should be a little thicker and there should be a metal washer to spread the load. I find the bottom bushings are ok and does absorb a lot of the road blows as its pretty soft.

 

[alcyon]

I removed 2mm from the spacers on mine

Yes i did the same. On the rears too