Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
I've tried the following. (Just for shits, on tires about to go in the dumpster...)
Pulled the ABS fuse... (Instant removal of the system control, so basicly, stock, non ABS brakes.)
Keep in mind, this was on the stock sawblades, many years ago, and a worn out set of all season tires made by goodyear, and marketed by Les Schwab. (What I was told.)
ABS working, hit the brakes as hard as you want, ABS kicks in, and the car slows down, does not skid sideways, or in any way lose control of the situation.
Fuse pulled, hit the brakes, locked up the fronts instantly... rears never locked up. No steering. Car felt like it was not slowing down much... total flat spot on the front tires. Wast of effort. (But it was fun.) Tried a few "limit" or threshold type applications, and every time, the brakes would lock, and it would take more distance to recover. (This was on a empty farm road, hitting the brakes at the other side of rail road tracks, and just noting when/where the car stopped at. The distances got longer, and longer and longer compared to the first ABS application... Part of that was brake fade, the other part is blocked/flat spotted tires SUCK to try and modulate. They lock up easy in my opinion as they get flat spotted more and more.)
Ok, that was years ago, and I have had quite a bit of additional training since then on ABS systems, and how they work etc.
Fact is, NOBODY, even highly paid race drivers can outbrake two exactly setup cars, one with ABS, the other with no ABS. (Same rotors, pads, calipers and tires in same weight and setup cars..)
Again, why don't they have ABS in most forms of race driving? IT MAKES IT TOO EASY TO DRIVE. (Not a downside in your street, or track driven Supra in my NSHO.)
Of course all calipers have some flex under use. And some brakes use fixed calipers and floating rotors. But, most of those are race applications, and not street cars. Now, my bike has floating disks, and fixed calipers, and stops quite well, but the last thing I'd want to do is try and threshold brake my bike! I'd have bought ABS for my bike if it was offered here. (They have it now in Europe, but not the USDM...)
Here is reality. Most sliding type calipers used on vehicles from the OEM will show some pretty nasty flex when in use. Especially compared to a design that does not float, has a solid bridge between opposing pistons, and has large pad retention pins/bolts further designed to reduce caliper flex?
Arz is right, the stock ABS system works great, or even better on the modified brakes than it does on the stockers. (And it's not just lines, or new fluid... It's removal of many points of flex and expansion.. they fancy hystersis term he used... LOL)
Pulled the ABS fuse... (Instant removal of the system control, so basicly, stock, non ABS brakes.)
Keep in mind, this was on the stock sawblades, many years ago, and a worn out set of all season tires made by goodyear, and marketed by Les Schwab. (What I was told.)
ABS working, hit the brakes as hard as you want, ABS kicks in, and the car slows down, does not skid sideways, or in any way lose control of the situation.
Fuse pulled, hit the brakes, locked up the fronts instantly... rears never locked up. No steering. Car felt like it was not slowing down much... total flat spot on the front tires. Wast of effort. (But it was fun.) Tried a few "limit" or threshold type applications, and every time, the brakes would lock, and it would take more distance to recover. (This was on a empty farm road, hitting the brakes at the other side of rail road tracks, and just noting when/where the car stopped at. The distances got longer, and longer and longer compared to the first ABS application... Part of that was brake fade, the other part is blocked/flat spotted tires SUCK to try and modulate. They lock up easy in my opinion as they get flat spotted more and more.)
Ok, that was years ago, and I have had quite a bit of additional training since then on ABS systems, and how they work etc.
Fact is, NOBODY, even highly paid race drivers can outbrake two exactly setup cars, one with ABS, the other with no ABS. (Same rotors, pads, calipers and tires in same weight and setup cars..)
Again, why don't they have ABS in most forms of race driving? IT MAKES IT TOO EASY TO DRIVE. (Not a downside in your street, or track driven Supra in my NSHO.)
Of course all calipers have some flex under use. And some brakes use fixed calipers and floating rotors. But, most of those are race applications, and not street cars.
Now, my bike has floating disks, and fixed calipers, and stops quite well, but the last thing I'd want to do is try and threshold brake my bike! I'd have bought ABS for my bike if it was offered here. (They have it now in Europe, but not the USDM...) Here is reality. Most sliding type calipers used on vehicles from the OEM will show some pretty nasty flex when in use. Especially compared to a design that does not float, has a solid bridge between opposing pistons, and has large pad retention pins/bolts further designed to reduce caliper flex?
Arz is right, the stock ABS system works great, or even better on the modified brakes than it does on the stockers.
(And it's not just lines, or new fluid... It's removal of many points of flex and expansion.. they fancy hystersis term he used... LOL)
