Front alignment bolts frozen, any tips?
- Thread starter LamaRossa
- Start date
is the car on stands? If there is load on the vehicle it might be harder to turn it. You should spray some PB Blaster in there, on both sides. That might help loosen it up.
also, make sure you are turning it both ways, it might be maxed out the way that you are turning it.
also, make sure you are turning it both ways, it might be maxed out the way that you are turning it.
QWIKSTRIKE
475rwhp459torq an climbin
Waht a waste of bandwith....why post if you dont have an answer.Don't be ans ass!Get a long breaker par and it must be heavy duty. Also it needs to be done on a lift for leverage.johnathan1 said:
It's a lot harder than that.
I'm sorry to say, but you're gonna spend some time with a torch and Mr. Sawzall.
I'm sorry to say, but you're gonna spend some time with a torch and Mr. Sawzall.
QWIKSTRIKE
475rwhp459torq an climbin
Not sure which bolt you talking about but if you can get a breaker bar or a big ratchet on it and use a pipe for leverage you may have more luck, also don't forget your wd-40 or pb blaster.
Add some more heater ducts from home depot? 
(just kidding)
If it won't shift with a big breaker bar you will probably end up destroying the bushings no matter what you try to get em out..
(just kidding)
If it won't shift with a big breaker bar you will probably end up destroying the bushings no matter what you try to get em out..
Thought my dad was retarded when he told me not to put on any oil on some rotors i couldn't take off (i put PB blaster on one side), But! to put water on rusted (stuck) shit!? works a shit load better then oil. If it had oil.... water wont work anymore, has to be 100% dry.
chances are the alignment cams are rusted solid into the bushing's inner sleeve...VERY common problem on the MKIII.
there is nothing you can do to free them- heat will only destroy the bushing.
get a die grinder and a 20 pack of cut off wheels....and prepare yourself for hours of fun. cut the alignment cams so you can remove the arms, get new bushings and cams for the arms, install.
there is nothing you can do to free them- heat will only destroy the bushing.
get a die grinder and a 20 pack of cut off wheels....and prepare yourself for hours of fun. cut the alignment cams so you can remove the arms, get new bushings and cams for the arms, install.
^ yep. i did mine a few months ago. by far, it was the most pain in the ass job i've done on the supra. i'd rather pull 6 motors in 6 days than do that crap again.
i used a sawzall, and a torch when i finally got fed up with it. (short bursts with the torch). i had new nylon bushings, so i didn't give a damn about the old ones.
also, do yourself a favor while they're out. clean up the surrounding areas around the tabs that the eccentric lobes rub against with a wire wheel and some brake cleaner. bend the tabs perpendicular to the chassis. (how they're supposed to be, and many of them will be bent). then run a bead of weld behind each one on the outside to prevent it from bending ever again.
when i pull my rear subframe for the solid spacer install, i'll be doing the same back there while i have it all out. the rear of my car is a tiny bit out, and that's the best it'll be until i can fix those tabs.
my alignment guy loved me for that.
use LOTS of antiseize (i call it seldom-seize, heh) on re-installation.
good luck!
-shaeff
i used a sawzall, and a torch when i finally got fed up with it. (short bursts with the torch). i had new nylon bushings, so i didn't give a damn about the old ones.
also, do yourself a favor while they're out. clean up the surrounding areas around the tabs that the eccentric lobes rub against with a wire wheel and some brake cleaner. bend the tabs perpendicular to the chassis. (how they're supposed to be, and many of them will be bent). then run a bead of weld behind each one on the outside to prevent it from bending ever again.
when i pull my rear subframe for the solid spacer install, i'll be doing the same back there while i have it all out. the rear of my car is a tiny bit out, and that's the best it'll be until i can fix those tabs.
my alignment guy loved me for that.
use LOTS of antiseize (i call it seldom-seize, heh) on re-installation.
good luck!
-shaeff
drjonez said:
agreed. I found that in addition to the grinding wheels, get a high quality de-burring bit and use it after you have cut off as much of the cam bolt as possible. It cuts through the metal ridiculously fast.
buckshotglass
I love all your sounds.
Just take the nut off, and they should pull right out. :1zhelp:
Just kidding.
Sorry to break it to you, but you are Fucked.
They are the worst bolts ever. Very carefully with a cutting torch is how I did it.
I tried everything else I had before I got out the torch, then it was quick.
Good luck Lam.:icon_razz
Just kidding.
Sorry to break it to you, but you are Fucked.
They are the worst bolts ever. Very carefully with a cutting torch is how I did it.
I tried everything else I had before I got out the torch, then it was quick.
Good luck Lam.:icon_razz
buckshotglass
I love all your sounds.
