Fresh Rebuild idle issue's

Tuner.87

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Aug 27, 2011
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East Lansing, Mi
Ok I have searched, troubleshot from the book over and over again. Still cannot figure this out. I have seen post where others have had the same issue and then they will say they fixed it but never say exactly what the issue is.

I rebuilt the entire engine with jp 8:1 pistons, eagle rods all the good stuff. I also have BC stage 2 cams with a stock head and valve train but machine shop looked everything over and it was all good. I removed the charcoal canister and installe all the correct block off plates and did it all properly. I have the breather's on top of the valve covers currently until I come up with another system. I got it all installed got the car to start and ever sense it will not idle when car is warm. At a cold start up the car will idle at 1000rpm's and once it gets warm it tries to stay idleing but will die. So I went through the steps. I check tps sensor and all values are good. There not very adjustable friendly though, they either seem to all be within limits or way off. so then I moved to the afm and that seems to be testing fine also. My next thing was to clean out the IAC valve. I did that and reinstalled it and then again the car was fine a cold start up but once warmed up it then jumped from 1000 to 1600 erratically. I had an extra iac valve and installed that and now it back to the old problem again. I checked for vacuum leaks and have not yet found any at all. I checked around the injectors, around intake mani, all vacuum hoses and nothing. I checked injectors and I can hear them all clicking. I have fuel pressure. when the cars cold I can set timing but it woulnt go any further then 15 degrees btdc and its suppose to be at 10 as you all know. So I then got adjustable cams gear so I could tryadjusting them to see if that would help if I got timing closer but still nothing. if anything not Its hard to even start. It started fine with the erratic idle with the current setting but now that that gone I have to pump that gas to even get it to start after its warm but again I let off the gas it will die. If I rest my foot on the gas pedal it will not die. I tried degree the cams but im sure it was a failed attempt all though I did my best im sure there still not adjusted great as I couldn't get the dial caliper th set on the valves very well without it being knocked off because theres no room when the camshaft comes around. The intake and exhaust are both advanced a few on the degress marks. Could there be to much overlap or what. Im at a stand still here

Oh I have also checked plug wires and there all within limits. Plugs are gapped correctly. ive put about 110 miles on the engine so far. It drives down the road fine for the most part and only hesitates in upper rpm but I still have yet to get on it heavy cause im still breaking it in. I have 30w non detergent in for the break in period. Also my fuel pump is getting 12v's its a walbro and my fuel filter is brand new. Someone please help im stuck on this. I don't know if its got to deal with my cams and timing or what. I find it weird that I have to give it throttle to get it to start after its warmshould I turn the intake cam in the retard direction or what Tto try and take out some overlap. Someone please help I really want to take the car further then 5 miles as I don't want to drive it a ton and hurt something after all the monet put in. Im sure im forgetting something I tried but if you say it and ive done it ill let you know.

Also forgot to mention I get a code 52 when I start driving. But I don't believe a knock sensor would affect the idle I though those worked above 2000 rpm's But I haven't always had this code. this code came up within the last 20 miles or so.
 

Tuner.87

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Aug 27, 2011
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I should also mention that I haven't been able to get a good timing set on it sense I got the cams gears put on because it wont idle long enough.
 

Tuner.87

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Aug 27, 2011
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MDCmotorsports;1973588 said:
Check for:

Boost leak
vacuum leak
Pirate air before afm
Faulty afm
Proper timing with diagnostic jumper installed
Fuel pressure
injector sizing

so for no boost leaks found or vacuum leaks

What exactly do you mean by pirate air?

The afm resistance value seem fine when I tested them, and jumper was in when trying to set timing but haven't been able to get a good idle when warm to adhust timing. fuel pressure is set slightly above stock pressure and I have the lexus afm and 550's installed.

please anyone else have anything.

Thanks MDC for those, I will double check them all again because like I said im sure ive looked over the problem already and am just missing it., I need a new set of eyes is what I really need.
 

7M4EVR

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Oct 8, 2012
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Sounds fuel related because you have to give it gas to keep running and it breaks up when there is high fuel demand (upper rpms)...how do you know you have slightly higher than stock fuel pressure? I just went through a long fuel issue diagnosis. Do you have an afpr?
 

Tuner.87

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Aug 27, 2011
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yes I have a fuel pressure regulator. I have the aeromotive reguleter installed and yes I have the j tube bypassed. I have looked for air around the accordion tube and found not leaks the accodrdian tube is almost brand new and still stiff
 

7M4EVR

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Tuner.87;1973783 said:
7m4ever what steps did you take for your fuel issue?

I was able to narrow my symptoms down to fuel problem for sure. Then i knew if i checked for fuel pressure everywhere from the pump to the afpr i would find my issue. Assuming you have the afpr installed properly, If your getting fuel to the afpr then you know your getting fuel to the rail. In my case I was getting enough fuel to the afpr to keep the engine idling, but anytime there was fuel demand (throttle) it would cut out. That meant i had a fuel restriction somewhere, and by process of elimination i foung it. Yours is a bit different from mine by the way you describe because you are able to give it throttle and keep it running.First of all what is your base pressure set at? I would start off by jumping the fuel pump, turning the key to on and watching you fuel pressure to see if it holds steady at what you want. Then by have someone start the car for you and you watch what your gauge reads for fuel pressure. Let it run and see what happens to fuel pressure when it gets warm. Then see what happens to it when you give someone gives it throttle to keep it running. That should give you enough information to rule out or diagnose it a fuel "pressure" problem. There are still other things you would have to test on the EFI system to rule out a fuel problem in general. Someone more knowledgeable than me might be able to help with that.
 

7M4EVR

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Oct 8, 2012
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FP and +B

Go over the tsrm efi section. I know it looks daunting to someone like myself still learning, but if you look at it and take your time and test what it tells you to test you can rule out damn near any problem you come across with a multimeter. If you start learning the EFI system on the supra thats a great start, you start to make sense of how things work. I've just scratched the surface of learning it, but I'm actually having fun doing it because things are making sense.
 

Tuner.87

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Aug 27, 2011
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so I jump the terminals you said to and I got 40psi fual pressure and it seems to hold for over 5 min. Now car will only start with gas pedal to the floor too
 

Tuner.87

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Aug 27, 2011
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East Lansing, Mi
its getting harder to find time to look at it and I got a lot of money into it so I don't wanna give up. Im ready to offer beer to someone that comes to fix it daughter take a lot of my time
 

7M4EVR

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Tuner.87;1975746 said:
so I jump the terminals you said to and I got 40psi fual pressure and it seems to hold for over 5 min. Now car will only start with gas pedal to the floor too

Okay....now have someone start the car and you watch the fuel pressure while its idling and see what happens. What your looking to see is if the fuel pressure starts to drop making your car want to sputter and die...then have them keep throttle on it to keep it running and see if the fuel pressure stays up making the engine stay running.