I recently had a local shop drop a completely redone 7mgte into my car. It runs great.. purrs like a kitten at idle. I however am having some issues that i would really appreciate some help on. First off the brake booster which worked fine previously now does not seem to work at all aka hard as hell peddle and damn car is impossible to stop, I found that the check valve inline between the intake manifold and the booster was placed in backwards..I reversed it hoping problem solved.. took the car out for a spin still no power breaks. Then whenever i would push in the clutch to coast a bit before engaging my lower gear to ease my lack of power breaks i started to cut out. check engine light is now on and brake lights would come on. Any advice would be great.
Fresh JDM 7mgte swap new problems
- Thread starter totaljim22
- Start date
Take it back to the shop and make them fix it,lol. Sounds like they might have screwed up some vacuum lines possibly. Unless you have a bad booster, which is kind of rare, i think it might be something vacuum wise
Second that, they should fix what they did wrong since they did the swap. They might have installed the wrong vacumme fitting at the manifold.
Yeah I would be all for taking her back to the shop, but they are switching facilities across town and wont be able to get me in till march... I dont think i can be that patient. I am worried that it might be a timing issue where i am not producing enough vaccum at idle due to cam shaft positioning. Blahhh it kills me inside to hear her idle in the garage and not be able to run it around town...
After a few phone calls she has an appointment first week of february
put a compound gauge on the intake nipple that runs to the booster and it reads around 15 in Hg and ominously sits in a red zone labeled late ign timing
After a few phone calls she has an appointment first week of february
put a compound gauge on the intake nipple that runs to the booster and it reads around 15 in Hg and ominously sits in a red zone labeled late ign timing
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timing is not that hard to fix on our cars. simple timing light and TSRM for the CPS and your golden.
I don't know if you could have that little vacuum just due to timing if the car still runs/"purrs". Do the breaks work better when it's still in gear and you're moving?
You said, you had an engine light on? What is the code?
You said, you had an engine light on? What is the code?
Solution is simple. You need to hit the gym and toughen those legs up and so that you can have the strength to apply the brake manually.
seriously though if it idles perfectly and runs good so how is it a timing issue. Also brakes don't feel all that hard to stop the vehicle when the booster goes out or when you remove it. So check brakes system. I say bleed the brakes and check all the rotors and pads. Also check the engine code.
seriously though if it idles perfectly and runs good so how is it a timing issue. Also brakes don't feel all that hard to stop the vehicle when the booster goes out or when you remove it. So check brakes system. I say bleed the brakes and check all the rotors and pads. Also check the engine code.
gaboonviper85;1501401 said:
I suppose you lack a sense of humor. I have personally removed brake boosters off some of my personal vehicles and the car was not damn hard to stop. So therefore i really think something is up with his brake system and it never hurts to bleed and check all the pads and rotors. I personally bleed and check my brakes thoroughly regularly. I believe they are the most important system in the vehicle because if all else fails at least i know i can stop my car.
