jake8790;1829197 said:
They are NPR's.
Would i even be able to get my money back considering they are oem spec pistons??
Fresh build weird issues need some help
- Thread starter jg5899
- Start date
They are NPR's.
Would i even be able to get my money back considering they are oem spec pistons??
Backlash2032;1829212 said:
I believe this is what happened, previous owner had a lexus AFM on the car when i purchased it.
89niner
I have hope to do some more upgrades in the future, I figured the 680's would be good. Better to have more than not enough right?
Will you be running the 680's before you do your added upgrades? Btw upgrage you rotating assembly first and do it right!
Pistons, rods, 7m have a forged crankshaft but have it checked anyway, most machine shops will check it for free, if its good have it polished, and keep all your parts very very clean, use latex gloves when you install the main & rod bearings so oil from you hands dosent get on the bearings
Oh definitely, that was at the top of my todo list, everything was checked as well as the crank I had it micro polished and balanced.
Sweet! GL with your build I hope you get to enjoy your car for many miles. Oh I forgot to mention you said you were going to upgrade your intercooler, you might already know this but replacing the piping and connections is a good idea! (You might have already done this lol) you don't want a boost leak on your new engine. And one more thing, are youdoing the work yourself? (Except things normally done at machine shop)
Thanks I hope so too! Lol yes, intercooler and piping all being done as well, thanks for the advice though its much appreciated.
Yes all work will be done by myself except for the machine shop work.
Yes all work will be done by myself except for the machine shop work.
Oh sweet I'm totally down with the do it yourselfers! also since you do have your engine apart you may want to go with arp main bolts and rod studs, they are well worth the money and will save you headaches from bearing troubles, have a friend that rebuilt his 7mgte and his number two main bearing went out twice! Cause = factory main bolts, replaced with arp, problem solved. Boost will find the weakness in your engine and expliot them untill your broke. Btw I love supramania the folks on here are awesome and extremely helpful and very entertaining at times.
The new build is gonna have all arp hardware so no issues!
Soo an interesting question came up while the machine shop was doing the work on the block. There was a bearing below the inlet housing on the right hand side of the block. He asked if the 7m block was ever used in another application that used a distributor.
Reason he was so concerned was because he had anther 7m block that he was doing an entire short block build on and noticed that the other guys block did not have the same bearing as mine. Have any of you encountered this?? Ill see if I can get some pictures to better explain what I'm talking about!
Soo an interesting question came up while the machine shop was doing the work on the block. There was a bearing below the inlet housing on the right hand side of the block. He asked if the 7m block was ever used in another application that used a distributor.
Reason he was so concerned was because he had anther 7m block that he was doing an entire short block build on and noticed that the other guys block did not have the same bearing as mine. Have any of you encountered this?? Ill see if I can get some pictures to better explain what I'm talking about!
The bearing is right below that internally. I'll see if tomorrow I can stop by the machine shop and take some pictures of it.
I've noticed early blocks have the bushing and late blocks do not.
It was for the oil pump driven distributor in the early blocks. Like ms and 2ms and such.
Sent from my HTC Rezound using Tapatalk 2
It was for the oil pump driven distributor in the early blocks. Like ms and 2ms and such.
Sent from my HTC Rezound using Tapatalk 2
Ahh makes sense thanks for the input. Guess the motor in my car is not original since I have a 92.
Well it's been a little over a month and I have finally gotten the rebuilt motor in. Fired it up and sounds great now just to work out a few bugs, a power steering leak, a small oil leak, coolant gauge, and trying to get the afc to work.
I'm using a Safc 2 to dial in the 680cc injectors but it seems to not be receiving a signal from the afm. I've been doing some reading and found that the output from the meter is 3hz with the key on motor off, and idles at about 15-18hz. Yet I am reading 3hz at all time and acceleration cuts off at 3k rpm.
I have double and triple
Checked all wires and solder joints and everything is solid.... I am lost! Any one have any ideas?
Also the coolant gauge is not working all wiring is intact is there any way to test the actual sensor? I broke the cold start switch during the build but I dont think that affects the gauge, or am I wrong?
Any input is appreciated thanks!
I'm using a Safc 2 to dial in the 680cc injectors but it seems to not be receiving a signal from the afm. I've been doing some reading and found that the output from the meter is 3hz with the key on motor off, and idles at about 15-18hz. Yet I am reading 3hz at all time and acceleration cuts off at 3k rpm.
I have double and triple
Checked all wires and solder joints and everything is solid.... I am lost! Any one have any ideas?
Also the coolant gauge is not working all wiring is intact is there any way to test the actual sensor? I broke the cold start switch during the build but I dont think that affects the gauge, or am I wrong?
Any input is appreciated thanks!
The AFM should not put out 3 hertz with the engine stopped. The 3K rpm cut is a result of the signal not being present. Coolant sensor and gage testing procedures can be found by RTFM.
I bypassed the Safc and it no longer cuts out, reconnected it, and it cuts out. Could this indicate a faulty afc?