For those with a 1.5JZ using GE Parts

[Nghty89]

one more add: Even if you are using a 2JZ-GTE pistons (or motor), you still should calculate your cylinder volumes to determine your MHG thickness. The 1JZ head has a smaller dome than the 2JZ head, so there it has less quench area, therefore your C/R is not going to be the same as if you used a 2JZ head. It is cheaper to buy a stock 2JZ-GTE MHG than it is to buy an aftermarket MHG, but it could prove to be more costly to rebuild the motor after you hit boost for the first time and the motor goes tits up.

My first step was to get the motor and head machined & assembled. I took them to a local machine shop and had them give me the CC's of both, determined the thickness of the MHG needed based on my target C/R, then I bought my MHG, a 2.0mm stopper. I took it back to the machine shop and had them machine it down to the appropriate thickness. This process took about 3-4 months, and it wasn't cheap. I was charged $120 for the cc'ing, $360 for the stopper MHG & another $80 (I think) for the machining of the MHG, but I got exactly what I was after. A great street motor that makes great torque off boost and hits boost fast and hard.

This is what I plan on doing since I had great success with running higher compression on my 7mgte build over last spring (9.0:1 @ 11psi). I plan on running around 9.0:1 again with my 2jzge block and 1jzgte head with a 1.5mm or so MHG, possibly stock twins (or medium single, or upgraded twins), and Megasquirt so I can avoid a lot of possible wiring/sensor/ecu issues. Not to mention the tuning capability and no need for an AFPR setup! : p

This thread has been a good help though, as I am just sitting and gathering parts and information. Nothing serious has begun just yet... :naughty:

 

[rakkasan]

re-run your calculations, 1.5mm MHG will be more than 9.0:1 by my numbers...

Also, stock twins will choke your motor. They are tiny and flow a lot less than a 3L motor will, but it sure will spool them up quick. You should make 7psi at idle, LOL. I would think about running an AFPR as well.

 

[suprahero]

Wow, 7psi @ idle...............I've gots to get me some of that.

 

[Nghty89]

depending on the head measurements, cc's of the chamber, and how the piston at tdc is in relation to my block will determine the mhg size. I just threw out the size I used last time. : p trust me, ill make sure its right. I've also got a trick up my sleeve for the twins, no worries. they should flow enough for my break-in period and then ill make moves. And megasquirt will allow me to raise fuel according to boost making the rising rate afpr unnecessary for that aspect. But I plan on using one so I can control the base pressure at least. I'm still reading into a lot of it, so plans may change and things will come out different as knowledge improves.

---------- Post added at 11:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:35 AM ----------

in other words, I got this. ; p

 

[Nghty89]

To revive this thread, I have found some more information. This applies to the 95 SC300 2jzge which I have, but not to the 95 Supra 2jzge. There is both a cam position sensor, as well as a crank position sensor. Both of these appear to be (still trying to confirm via other forums as well. So far it's a unanimous yes) the same sensors used by the 1jzgte (rear cam position sensor, and crank position sensor). This info should be helpful for those wanting to use stock 1jzgte wiring, as the 2jzge pump on the SC300 does have the provision for the crank position sensor like the 1jzgte pump, if I am reading my diagrams right. I will be checking my motor over physically to make sure this is the case as I am just now to the point of pulling the oil pump.

If this is the case, I plan on trying to use these sensors (crank and rear 1jz cam position sensor) in my megasquirt system, which should eliminate the need for a trigger wheel. I just need to find what type of sensors they are. I believe they are magnetic, instead of VR or Hall, and should work with the Megasquirt 3 software/input. More research to come.

 

[OneJArpus]

To revive this thread, I have found some more information. This applies to the 95 SC300 2jzge which I have, but not to the 95 Supra 2jzge. There is both a cam position sensor, as well as a crank position sensor. Both of these appear to be (still trying to confirm via other forums as well. So far it's a unanimous yes) the same sensors used by the 1jzgte (rear cam position sensor, and crank position sensor). This info should be helpful for those wanting to use stock 1jzgte wiring, as the 2jzge pump on the SC300 does have the provision for the crank position sensor like the 1jzgte pump, if I am reading my diagrams right. I will be checking my motor over physically to make sure this is the case as I am just now to the point of pulling the oil pump.

If this is the case, I plan on trying to use these sensors (crank and rear 1jz cam position sensor) in my megasquirt system, which should eliminate the need for a trigger wheel. I just need to find what type of sensors they are. I believe they are magnetic, instead of VR or Hall, and should work with the Megasquirt 3 software/input. More research to come.

My 2jzge is from a SC300... There were NO provisions for the crank sensor on the oil pump nor did the head show any signs of a cam position sensor from my memory as its uses a distributor. THIS MAY DEPEND ON the year... I found a 96 SC300 w/a crank position sensor on it (last pic) but mine did not must of been a pre 96 sc300

2jzge head - no cam sensors

2jzge block - no crank sensor provision on oil pump

2jzgte/SC300 96+ maybe?

Also keep in mind if you require a new pump to use the crank sensor you will need the timing gear behind the pulley as pictured on the 2jz block BUT the one off of your 1jz.... cant remember if i mentioned this

 

[Nghty89]

Hmm, its very likely its the later 2jzge. Rock Auto had it listed for 95 plus, but they may be off a year. I still need to check mine, im currently out of town. As for the gear it senses, I should be fine since Megasquirt has an adjustable section for wheels. Great find on the picture! Ill try and find more once Im on a fully functional computer.

 

[Nghty89]

Ok, update:

-The 1jzgte/2jzgte/newer 2jzge timing gear (96 and up it appears) IS different and necessary if you go with the crank position sensor. Buying this part.

-I do not have a provision for this on my oil pump, I checked it last night. Looks like I'll be buying a 1jz pump.

-Since there was no Crank sensor, I'm assuming the head didn't have it either, I already sold that part to a friend putting a 2jzge-t in a foxbody stang. (The stock 2jzge motor mounts bolt right into the foxbody chassis.... o.0)

-And for those who may want to do this with their 1.5jz, the 2jzgte internals are a direct swap with the 2jzge internals. You can even use ge rods with gte pistons, and vice versa. This is due to the blocks being the same, only the gte block already has the turbo oil return and oil squirter holes drilled. The channels are in the ge block and upper oil pan (for the return), just not drilled out.

-Also, 2jzgte ct20 turbos do not bolt to the 1jz head or manifold. I toyed with the idea since they'd be nicer with the 3.0, figured I'd share what I found.

Hope this helps anyone looking through this.


-Another add - http://thedeltaecho.wordpress.com/2010/03/14/2jz-ge-cam-crank-signals/ - the crank/cam position sensors are VR. There's a bit of information in there.

 

[rakkasan]

-The 1jzgte/2jzgte/newer 2jzge timing gear (96 and up it appears) IS different and necessary if you go with the crank position sensor. Buying this part.

The 2JZ-GTE oil pump can be used, same part, procured at your local Toyota dealership

 

[Nghty89]

The 2JZ-GTE oil pump can be used, same part, procured at your local Toyota dealership

Re-read my post which you quoted. ; p

Ok, update:

-The 1jzgte/2jzgte/newer 2jzge timing gear (96 and up it appears) IS different and necessary if you go with the crank position sensor. Buying this part.

And after re-reading the thread for my own accuracy, I need the crank timing gear as well since the jz's without the CPS do not have a gear with the proper teeth which will not allow Megasquirt to read the sensor.

 

[Vrank!!!]

After looking through diagrams it seems the earlier 2j's only have one crank sensor (ne) in the system, located in the distributor, as opposed to the two found in the later model non vvti's (ne) located in the distributor and (ne2) which is by the crank. So does any one know if the trigger wheel in the later model is the same as the 1j one?

 

[aphxero]

Nope. 1j non vvti is 12-0 on the crank and 2 g sensor. vvtli (na and turbo) has missing teeth and a single g sensor.

Are you srsly running MS on it?

 

[Nghty89]

(assuming the MS question was open to being answered) I am going to run MS3, but I believe that wheel on the crank may not be what I need. I may be better off using one of their wheels (32 or 34) on the front of my harmonic balancer and custom mount my VR sensor.

 

[aphxero]

Well I think the easiest way in this case would be remove the last tooth btdc from the crank wheel (from a 12 tooth tt one) and run wasted. Or use 12-0 and second trigger for return to do sequential. This motor you have, It should have a g1 and g2 in the dist. You can use generic wheel decoder in the software.

Whether you're better off with the custom jobby is up to you. I'm just saying there are many ways to make toyota stuff work. It's all buyable/replaceable.

 

[Nghty89]

Hmm... If I run the VR sensor on the crank, would that be the only one I need if I adjust the wheel so that MS will be able to read it properly? Or will I need to put in a second sensor for the 1jz cam up top?

To reiterate, I will not have the 2jz distro or the 7m cps on this motor since the 1jz does not have provisions for these. : p I am starting from scratch with the sensors available from where I am buying my MS3 unit. http://www.diyautotune.com/ Great info so far.

I also found some info at this link on wasted spark setups, with a little bit of info on Sequential: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=10670

I still need to read more on the forums and user/configuration manual as well.

 

[armyboot]

I run ms1 with sequential spark on all stock sensors since 2007 with some help from aphxero. I use the stock crank trigger and the rear cam trigger on a second vr circut I built in the proto area of the v3 board. Also with advice of I think aphxero, I run 6 coil drivers instead of the factory ignitor (very stable). For 2011, I'll be updating to ms3 with the sequential fuel on a 2jzge block thats been built. I to now run a built 1.5jz

Nghty89- to help you out, for what you need buy from diy autotune, you'll need to also order the lm1815 for the cam sensor and 6 coil drivers. This way you can run full sequential fuel and spark on stock jz sensors.

 

[Nghty89]

Sweet, thats exactly the info I (and hopefully others) will be needing. So you're using lm1815 for the rear cam sensor, which sensor do you use with the stock crank trigger? And which model are those coil drivers? I'd like to go with something tested and stable that way I can tune quickly so I can get everything broken in properly. A copy of your tune file would be a big help also, that way I can check it out in the software as soon as I get it installed in the next week. Currently studying for class finals (I hate college sometimes...).

 

[aphxero]

U can use the same signal specs on the cam/crank. iirc the rear cas is 70deg btdc. Use the crank trigger wheel from an earlier 1j/2j turbo. This is the 12-0 you need. If you're gonna run wasted you can just make a missing tooth on the crank wheel and use just that one vr sensor. But if you do this DO NOT use the stock TT igniter. It uses internal dwell control so when you fire it wasted the dwell is 50% because it's firing twice as much. So 5000rpm has the dwell of 10000rpm it will definitely break up all the time.

fwiw, I'd use the crank and rear cam with tt igniter in full sequential. Let the tt igniter act as the coil driver. It's better suited to this and keeps electrical load out of the MS Then all you need to give it is spark ABCDEF. If you need the specs on what tooth should fire what coil I can dig it up.

Really it's more basic than you'd think.

 

[Nghty89]

Wow, exactly the info I will need. So the stock TT igniter from the 2jz? Or 1jz? I would prefer to run sequential instead of wasted, especially if this setup makes it easier to tune. If you could PM me any other details you find, I'll also be jumping into the ignition half of this once exams pass. Too much else in my head to remember it right now if I start reading further into the setup manual.

 

[aphxero]

I'll just post here. All the ignition stuff is the same on all the TT 1/2j so use whatever. iirc I used a 5v pullup on my spark outs. It's been a LONG time.