Folgers Coffee Can VS TTR can, Also ATI Damper ordeal

joel903

New Member
Apr 6, 2005
314
0
0
Conover,NC
These are pictures of when i first received the TTR charcoal canister from a seller in Australia. Trident extra care is only there to block my address. Also these are pictures of when i first received my ATI Super Damper.
sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg


These next pictures are of the TTR charcoal canister VS the US fogers coffee can. Pretty straight forward and pictures speaks louder than words, so no comentary here.
sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg


For anyone who is interested in buying a ATI Super Damper they should first be aware that the stock crank bolt is NOT a direct fitment onto the ATI Super Damper. I don't know if this topic has already been covered or not but i'm posting my findings to help others. I called ATI directly and spoke with their tech guy "Rob" he also agreed and verified with me that the stock crank bolt would have to be machined down to 1.750" to fit onto the ATI Damper as the inside of the ATI Damper was like 1.810". I asked Rob why would ATI make a damper that's not direct fit and these were his exact words "We couldn't make the inner walls larger to fit the stock crank bolt as that would make the crank walls to thin and the damper could crack or break under high loads of horsepower ". I finally found a good local machine shop 10mins away from my house who was able to machine the stock crank bolt down for me to 1.780" instead of the 1.750" as recommended by ATI. I had 3 spare 7m crank bolts on hand and machined 2 and kept one stock to show you guys what i'm blattering about on here. If any of you guys have friends who work in a machine shop it would probably save you some money as the machine shop charged me $50 to machine only 2 stock bolts down to 1.780"

The machined bolt is the one on top the bottom one is stock
sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

Machined bolt on left, stock bolt on right
sm_photo_missing.jpg

Pictures of how the stock crank bolt fit over the ATI Super Damper. This 100% will not work and will never work in a million years.
sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

Picture of the machined down crank bolt fits in there, fits really good down there being machined down to 1.780"
sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

Picture of the 2 machined crank bolt with the stock bolt with ATI Damper
sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg

sm_photo_missing.jpg
 

CPT Furious

Now MAJ FURY!
Mar 30, 2005
607
0
0
KDOV
Damn, that sucks about the machining. My local shop did it for free. But, yes, there were some other threads that mentioned the bolt needed be to machined down in order to fit. Also, if you boil or bake the damper it will expand slightly and is a helluva lot easier to slip on the crankshaft.
 

joel903

New Member
Apr 6, 2005
314
0
0
Conover,NC
yeah that would sound like a good idea to bake the damper so it'd fit on there as i do also notice that its a very very tight fit. Seems more of like a press on fit rather than a slide on fit.
 

Keros

Canadian Bacon
Mar 16, 2007
825
0
0
Calgary
Ok, can you tell me a bit more about this TTR can? How does one aquire it and what is the weight difference?
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
0
36
Beach Park, IL
Keros;1581788 said:
Ok, can you tell me a bit more about this TTR can? How does one aquire it and what is the weight difference?

There is a HUGE weight difference. The USDM can is made of metal, the TTR can is made of plastic.

I have one sitting in my room, but one of the nipples broke off, so it's basically useless now :(
 

figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
5,225
16
38
50
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
Joel

correct on the bolt. It is common knowledge at least with anyone that spoke with me ;)

You are talking to the guy that got these designed back in 2006. One of the engineering drawings was the turn down of the stock OEM bolt by 2mm. Since then I think ATI has a bolt + washer combo they sell for this very application. Probably cheaper than the $50 you paid.
 

joel903

New Member
Apr 6, 2005
314
0
0
Conover,NC
Yeah if they had a bolt they sold with this damper Rob didn't mention anything about it to me so i just thought i was on my own. Anyways i'm very happy with the results of the machine shop so the $50 went to good use.

About the weight difference of the two cans, theres maybe about a 1.5 pound difference i think. Also like mentioned above the TTR is made of plastic.
 

thedave925

Since 9/16/05
Nov 9, 2005
626
0
0
East Bay, Cali
my machinist honed the ati dampener to remove the layer of paint on the contact surface that slides over the crank snout. still a sucker to install/remove but at least it fits now.
if you heat up the dampener to install it, how do you heat it up without destroying it on removal???
 

joel903

New Member
Apr 6, 2005
314
0
0
Conover,NC
Yeah honestly i don't think i'll bake the damper just to install it. Baking it would mostly likely destroy the cool looking ati sticker around the damper. I probably just do the old screw on technique.
 

thedave925

Since 9/16/05
Nov 9, 2005
626
0
0
East Bay, Cali
^^ you have installed the ati dampener before right?
the clearance is so tight that even after you lube it I wouldn't force it on for fear of damaging $400

JOEL: I don't think the crank bolt is long enough to pull the dampener into place. Just get it clearanced, so your not swearing at yourself next time you gotta remove it
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
0
36
Beach Park, IL
thedave925;1582154 said:
^^ you have installed the ati dampener before right?
the clearance is so tight that even after you lube it I wouldn't force it on for fear of damaging $400

JOEL: I don't think the crank bolt is long enough to pull the dampener into place. Just get it clearanced, so your not swearing at yourself next time you gotta remove it

Wow seriously? The last (stock) crank damper I installed was insanely tight as well. I ended up smoothing out the inside with some 2000 grit and hitting it with some lube and it slid on. Took a little bit of force to get it on, but I got it to the point where I could thread the bolt on and used the bolt to tighten it on.

I know it's not the ATI, but experiences sound similar
 

joel903

New Member
Apr 6, 2005
314
0
0
Conover,NC
Yeah i might use some "Radiator hose lube" i got from autozone. those radiator hose lube worked wonderfully with el cheapo OBX-R silicone radiator hoses for me and they dry up over time i think.
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
0
36
Beach Park, IL
What's the going rate for the TTR Charcoal Cans? I tried searching SupraForums Australia, but after about 15 tries with different search terms each time, I still got nothing...
 

lewis15498

Don't blame ebay cheapass
Sep 28, 2008
1,397
1
0
Raynham, Massachusetts, United States
Moy;1581797 said:
There is a HUGE weight difference. The USDM can is made of metal, the TTR can is made of plastic.

I have one sitting in my room, but one of the nipples broke off, so it's basically useless now :(

JB weld it moy! If you're missing the nipple go to Autozone and grab some vaccum hose connectors and find one that will work. Gotta be creative guy!
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
0
36
Beach Park, IL
lewis15498;1582428 said:
JB weld it moy! If you're missing the nipple go to Autozone and grab some vaccum hose connectors and find one that will work. Gotta be creative guy!

Hahaha one of those highly sought after items or something?

I got it for free when I paid 50 bucks for a flywheel and cluster. Got a HUGE amount of parts. I never knew what that plastic container was until this thread LOL