Foggy Clear Turns
- Thread starter Alec
- Start date
The clear plastic is attacked by UV. They put a caoting on them to stop the UV from getting to it (basicly a clearcoat). Coating gets chipped, UV gets in and starts attacking the plastic and oxidizing it.
It can be polished out and then re cleared.
Or it could just be condensation on the inside, but I doubt it...
It can be polished out and then re cleared.
Or it could just be condensation on the inside, but I doubt it...
Air powered die grinder, very fluffy buffing wheel 3" diameter, and very fine polish compound.....
Very slowly polish the plastic at a 200 rpm ruffly....don't let the wheel spin fast as it will burn the plastic!!!!
After that clear coat it!
Very slowly polish the plastic at a 200 rpm ruffly....don't let the wheel spin fast as it will burn the plastic!!!!
After that clear coat it!
I’d really recommend polishing the turn signal by hand rather than with a power buffer, mainly to prevent the burn-through that gaboonviper mentioned. I’ve been doing this on my own cars for years, and have had people ask me how to do this, only to have them wreck their light housings due to using a power buffer that went too fast. But it’s your choice as to how you do it.
What I’d say to do is to start off using a liquid rubbing compound, then move on to a liquid polishing compound. It takes a long time to do it this way, but it’s a lot safer in my opinion.
Joe
What I’d say to do is to start off using a liquid rubbing compound, then move on to a liquid polishing compound. It takes a long time to do it this way, but it’s a lot safer in my opinion.
Joe
^ much safer by hand! I use a die grinder but I have many hours of practice polishing medical acrylic parts (laser lenses etc)....I've definetly fucked up polishing plastic and burned it though!
Buy Simix Surface Restorer. It takes oxidation right out...head lights, body, everything. Its a sweet product. Follow the directions and waaa la!
www.simixsolutions.com
The website is under construction...I would wait and buy it direct from him. I believe he still only sells direct...but my company is looking into becoming a distributor for car detailing products and equipment...this stuff is amazing.
www.simixsolutions.com
The website is under construction...I would wait and buy it direct from him. I believe he still only sells direct...but my company is looking into becoming a distributor for car detailing products and equipment...this stuff is amazing.
I have fixed several plastic lenses.
What I use:
one can of clearcoat
1000 & 1500 grit sand paper
a surface prep agent to remove greese wax ect that is plastic safe
cloth Buffer wheel for a drill or a high speed buffer
3M compound
Temp fix:
Buff it out with the drill and 3M coumpound, may last a few days or a few months.
Hardcore fix:
Remove lense, wetsand surface with 1000grit
use surface prep agent with a lent free cloth
Apply clear as per can directions
wait 3-6 hours
wetsand with 1000 to remove any imperfections
do a 2nd coat of clear
wait a day
wetsand with 1500 till uniform dull
Apply 3m compound with drill or buffer taking care not to go too fast.
Typicaly last a few years depending on if you wax and hand wash your car.
What I use:
one can of clearcoat
1000 & 1500 grit sand paper
a surface prep agent to remove greese wax ect that is plastic safe
cloth Buffer wheel for a drill or a high speed buffer
3M compound
Temp fix:
Buff it out with the drill and 3M coumpound, may last a few days or a few months.
Hardcore fix:
Remove lense, wetsand surface with 1000grit
use surface prep agent with a lent free cloth
Apply clear as per can directions
wait 3-6 hours
wetsand with 1000 to remove any imperfections
do a 2nd coat of clear
wait a day
wetsand with 1500 till uniform dull
Apply 3m compound with drill or buffer taking care not to go too fast.
Typicaly last a few years depending on if you wax and hand wash your car.
You don't, you just do the outside. You remove the part from the car to eliminate overspray issues.
ms07s;1356626 said:
Oh, because when I first bought the car there was moisture in there, but no fogginess. So I took it out and poured some alcohol in there and swished it around. It got rid of the moisture but added the fogginess. Do I still only do the outside?
Some people remove the outer lense with ovens and heat guns, but as you used alcohol in the lense it may have softened the plastic to the point it will just break when you attempt that process. If the lense is getting moisture in it, it has seal or ventalation issues