Flare size for 315 width tires?

spencyg

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Oct 7, 2010
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So I'm in the middle of some serious rust repair on my '87, and while I've got the wheel arches to fully repair, I'm thinking now would be the best time to add additional flare to the rear fenders to accomodate a larger width tire. I'd like to run 315-35-17's out back with a 17x12 wheel. Assuming I get a wheel with backspacing necessary to clear the rear struts by 0.5" or so, how much flare should I be adding to clear this package? I was kind of thinking on the order of 1.5" or so, but the rear subframe is fully out of the car and I was hoping somebody around here might know the answer off the top of their head. Sorry for the general lack of detail here...just trying to make sure I get as much done as possible with the car all cut up.

Thanks

SGinNE
 

spencyg

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Oct 7, 2010
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I had been through almost that entire thread without finding anything specific to my question, however I did come across something when just reading again that makes me rethink things. One of the members posted (and others agreed) that the width of the tire has less to do with straight line traction than the sidewall height. Being that I want wider tires out back to control traction concerns, I guess I need to rethink a bit. Maybe 275's all around would be good enough for my needs. Obviously I could accomplish this without adding any flare.

SGinNE
 

te72

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I currently run 275/40/17 all around during the summer, no traction issues here, although I'm barely above the 300 barrier. Get sticky enough tires and you'd likely be ok with 275's...

You do have the option of adding Shine Auto's Kaze rear fenders... 50mm extra width over stock.
 

spencyg

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My concern is that I'm going to be running a twin turbo V8...750hp is not out of the question.

Shine Auto dosen't show those fender flares you're referring to. I've sent them an e-mail inquiring. It would be really sweet to be able to just bond and blend some nice fenders instead of dealing with my current mess. I'm not counting on it though. Maybe I can just do a modest 0.75" or so of flare to make room for some 295's out back and call it good.

Ugh...did I mention that I despise working with sheetmetal?
 

JPsToyota

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If you are sticking with a low profile street tire, it's all about width. I don't think any of them have enough give in the sidewall to really help you out much with traction, so it comes down to how wide you can get your tire.

If you are thinking about drag racing and fitting a "real" flexible street drag radial like a Mickey Thompson, then sidewall height becomes a huge factor IMO. The taller the radial you can put out back, the better off you are traction wise. Running these has some trade-offs in the real-world street driving, so you might be better off having a set of drag wheels/tires. I have a pair of 16x8"s for some decently tall M/T radials on the Supra. I don't know if they make anything decent sized in 17".

As far as the amount of fender flare you want to put in, I can't give you an experienced answer, but I can guess a bit.

I run 295/35/18 on a 18x9.5" wheel with a +22 offset and they are seriously poking out.(I would be way better off with a +35ish offset, but this is a special offset set I had for my old 240sx. I am looking into maybe getting these wheels machined a bit to help me out.) Even with the perfect offset of the wheels where they were just barely off suspension, I would probably be at a "perfect" fit. (Perfect with the fender rolled, anyway)
So I'm thinking you need at LEAST an inch and a half of flare out and some perfect offset to pull off 315's on a 12" wide rim. That's a wide-ass wheel. :)
Don't take all of this as perfect facts, I'm just doing this off of memory and the top of my head.


I want to flare my fenders also when I get into my bodywork, let us know how you did it and how it went.

---------- Post added at 02:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:44 PM ----------

And speaking of 750hp, you've got no chance of putting anything near that down until you are already moving, you are on the right track figuring out how to get as much rubber back there as possible. If I were you, I would be running a drag radial all the time and be very careful. I see you are in Maine, fun.

I had probably 350whp-ish this summer, and I was smoking the 295/35's in 1st and sometimes through second on a hard 1-2 shift. I don't have any stupid camber like some people either, the tires are all on the ground.
 

te72

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I was thinking of running some 17x12 with 335/35/17 rear tires on mine... Unfortunately you can only either get Kuhmos or Michelins in that size for a street tire, so I may be going back to running drag radials out back.
 

spencyg

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Yeah...I don't know what the hell I'm gunna do. Seriously considering scrapping this chassis and finding one with less rust on it. The more I cut, the more rust I find. I know as well as anybody that if you don't get it all, than you might as well not get any of it, and I'm not sure it is going to be possible to get it all with this particular car. Researching my options. If I find a nicer shell I won't be cutting it up either, so I guess I just need to see what the most rubber is I can run with everything else being stock. I am going to be running coilovers so there is a very good possibility that I can run a 2.5" spring which would allow significantly more backspacing.

On a side note...does anybody know how much a stripped Supra MK3 shell weighs? Scrap is selling for $180/ton right now!
 

te72

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Stripped, a good estimate would be about 2800lbs IMO. As for tires, you could probably fit a 305 under a stock fender, as the 275's I have leave about 1" left to tuck under the fender.
 

spencyg

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You think a bare shell weighs that much? I was thinking about 1200 lbs max...??

Full car ~3600lbs
Tires/Wheels ~175lbs
Interior ~250lbs
Rear Hatch ~100lbs
Targa ~40lbs
Rear Subframe, Fully Loaded ~600lbs
Front Subframe, Fully Loaded ~400lbs
Engine 475lbs
Transmission 140lbs
Hood 50 lbs
All the other stuff, lights, wiring, HVAC, etc ~150lbs

Dunno...
 

te72

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Hmm, perhaps I misunderstood what you meant by "bare". Doubt the subframes weigh that much without their components attached to them though...
 

Enraged

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Mar 30, 2005
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another less costly option would be godfather overfenders. mine aren't installed right now, but i would imagine with some metal trimming you could gain another 15mm or so of clearance.