Fixing the Problem please help

[RaiderRC]

Okay I just swapped a 7MGE into my 84 Toyota pickup. Sounds weird but so far the engine is amazing I just have a few little bugs to work out. If you can help me out on any little question it would be greatly appreciated.

Background: I pulled it from an 89 that had overheated with a blown head gasket. I took it to a machine shop and he replaced the head gasket, and checked the valves. He said they didn't leak for about 4 minutes before he saw a drop of solvent leak through the valves so he said they should be good. He also did a quick glance at the bottom end. Well it has been running for about 2000 miles now. Also while i was trying to start the engine for the first time... :nono: I put the distributor in 180 off. Could that have affected anything below?

1. The engine has run well since i put it in. As i get going in the morning it likes to burn a little oil. Is that normal or where should I look? When i get going it doesn’t seem to put out any blue smoke, but the engine has been burning oil. Any idea's where to start

2. Sometimes when i start the bugger it coughs and then dies? Is that oil getting into a cylinder and causing it to not fire. It sounds horrible. Like a loud bad cough. It usually will start up after.

3. The vacuum small pipe out the back of the intake manifold, there is a line that goes to the cruise control. Should i just put a cap over that? Right now its open. Should it be going to something important. (I don't have cruise control.)

4. It sounds like there is a valve ticking at about 2000 to 3000 RPM's. How do i go about adjusting them. (sorry use to the 22r) A quick overview would be nice or a link to another forum that explains it, could work.

Anyways hope you guys can help me get my engine running smooth...

 

[Dirgle]

I bet that truck is fun to drive.

First off, what did the mechanic torque the head bolts down to? Toyota say 52 ft/lbs this is the cause of most blown head gaskets. We have found 72 ft/lbs to be more reliable. This is not as big of an issue with a naturally aspirated motor as it is with our turbo charged ones.

Now for your questions.

No 180 degrees off usually doesn’t hurt it.

1) How many miles are on the motor? If it's allot, then the piston rings might be worn. Or it could still be your valve seals. But my money is on the rings if it has allot of miles. This is normal on a high mileage motor and you shouldn't worry about it as long as you keep an eye on your oil level. 7m's don't take kindly to running low on oil.

2) No, doesn’t really sound like oil. Maybe fuel, the cold start injector might be reading wrong and giving it to much or to little fuel. Does it do it when the motor cold or warm?

3) If you don't have it controlling your heater, which from the pic it looks like yours is manual control. Then yes you can cap it off. That’s the only two things it was meant to run.

4) Here is the bad news. A tick in that range on the 7M usually means the early stages of rod knock. You never let it run low on oil did you?

If you still believe that it's the valve than read this thread, there is a little info in there.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1092&highlight=valve+shim+replace

There is more info out there and would be happy to direct you but it's late so it will have to wait till later.

You can also find more info out here:

http://www.supratsrm.com

 

[GrimJack]

I'd bet on old valve seals for the oil on startup - and I'd bet that's the starting issue as well. It's really not that big of a deal.

Does sound like the beginning stages of rod knock, too. Pull your plug wires one at a time and see if the noise goes away. If it does, you've got some worn bearings. Not the end of the world, it's not that much work to pull the engine, pan, and replace some bearings... but I'd wait until you want to do a complete engine overhaul, or it gets worse.

 

[antman]

2) No, doesn’t really sound like oil. Maybe fuel, the cold start injector might be reading wrong and giving it to much or to little fuel. Does it do it when the motor cold or warm?

i didn't know that cold start injectors read anything, but i do bet that things fun to drive. you haven't been mudding in that thing since the swap have you.

 

[Dirgle]

^^^ Well technically the Cold start injector itself doesn’t, However the Cold Start Injector circuitry, and protocols inside the ECU do take readings from various sensors, in order to decide how it should activate the injector.

But I’m sure we all knew what I was saying so I didn’t go into detail.

 

[RaiderRC]

thanks guys... gives me lots to do tomarrow... and i will let you know about pulling the plugs... is there an easier way on the non turbos to get to the 3 and 4 cylinder wires? also the mech said he glued some piece back onto the crakshaft are much do those usualy run and if i pull the pan how much work is there... to replace those baring if i take it to a shop and get it pressed on and off?

 

[RaiderRC]

also i have been getting sputtering under loads at low RPM's what could they be a problem of? leaking piston ring?