Fixing other peoples fuck ups need help with a few things

[spikesnstuff0905]

I don't see how yours is different, it looks the same as stock. Did you set crank timing AND set the CPS, or did you just set the timing belt on there?

---------- Post added at 07:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:02 PM ----------

BTW I don't know if your coil packs are bolted down in that pic, but if they are, they're in the wrong order.

 

[Another MkIII]

heres a pic of the maf

That won't work. At all. Put the sensor in the stock housing or it will never run.
-AM3

 

[spikesnstuff0905]

Cylinders are numbered from 1-6, starting at the front. (ie: #1 cylinder is closest to the radiator, #6 is closest to the firewall. Plug wires should be attached like this:
(1-6)(3-4)(2-5)
As in first wire on far left coil pack goes to #1 cylinder, then second wire on far left pack goes to #6
First wire on middle pack goes to #3 cylinder, second wire on middle pack goes to #4 cylinder, etc.

 

[Greyscorpion]

Ok thanks

 

[Greyscorpion]

Cylinders are numbered from 1-6, starting at the front. (ie: #1 cylinder is closest to the radiator, #6 is closest to the firewall. Plug wires should be attached like this:
(1-6)(3-4)(2-5)
As in first wire on far left coil pack goes to #1 cylinder, then second wire on far left pack goes to #6
First wire on middle pack goes to #3 cylinder, second wire on middle pack goes to #4 cylinder, etc.

I figured that the cylinders were numbered that way and i have the wires hooked up properly and i tried adjusting the cps but its still back firing but not as bad but still not running. i was reading on another forum that the cps can be put in wrong or something but i havnt messed with it like that. i wont be able to work on it really for maybe a week or maybe this coming weekend thanks for all the help cant wait to hear this thing finally fire up.

---------- Post added at 09:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:56 PM ----------

oh ya i had already put the wires in the right order i saw what you were talking about in that reply to the coil packs. ive been trying to find out what bolts are suppose to go where because when i got the car i was handed a Gatorade bottle full of nuts and bolts that go to the car.

 

[boostcraver]

Your maf sensor needs to be in the housing. The housing has a "honeycomb" mesh in it in the front of it. This honeycomb creates the Kharman (not sure if I spelled that right) Vortex that the maf can read so the ECU gets the right information. At least that's how it was explained to me...

You can also use a Maft-Pro or HKS VPC to convert to MAP sensor operation that will remove the MAF sensor all together. This option is easier to deal with in the long run as you start making mods and upping the horsepower, and as a bonus, the car can still be driven (off boost only) if an intercooler pipe blows clear of it's coupling. GL and keep us informed how it goes.

 

[spikesnstuff0905]

lol sounds like fun. gl

 

[Greyscorpion]

I already fixed the maf sensor mod and put it where it needed to be I took a pic of it because if the disbelief that someone would try that. I hope that there is no damage to any of the cylinders if he ran it long like that. I'm going to upgrade believe me. I also have to find a fan for the car in the junk yard. That is missing also

 

[toyolla86]

imo you should just hook the stock afm back up and see if that changes anything. cheap and easy to do. then you'll see if thats giving you any issues

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Your maf sensor needs to be in the housing. The housing has a "honeycomb" mesh in it in the front of it. This honeycomb creates the Kharman (not sure if I spelled that right) Vortex that the maf can read so the ECU gets the right information. At least that's how it was explained to me...

The Honey comb just straightens the airflow out into the sensor. The vortex is created inside the sensor. The speed of the air makes a small piece of reflective foil vibrate or wiggle inside the sensor. A photo sensor measures the rate of movement and outputs a frequency signal. That coupled with the temperature sensor give the TCCS two inputs that allow the TCCS to calculate how much air flow from air speed and air temperature.

The housing is important because of its size. The size of the housing gives the sensor its calibration.

 

[boostcraver]

The Honey comb just straightens the airflow out into the sensor. The vortex is created inside the sensor. The speed of the air makes a small piece of reflective foil vibrate or wiggle inside the sensor. A photo sensor measures the rate of movement and outputs a frequency signal. That coupled with the temperature sensor give the TCCS two inputs that allow the TCCS to calculate how much air flow from air speed and air temperature.

The housing is important because of its size. The size of the housing gives the sensor its calibration.

Thanks for the correction. I know better now.

---------- Post added at 02:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:32 PM ----------

I also have to find a fan for the car in the junk yard. That is missing also

I have a few spare gte fans if you want one. PM me for a price, but I won't ask you for a whole lot.

 

[Greyscorpion]

Thanks for the correction. I know better now.

---------- Post added at 02:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:32 PM ----------



I have a few spare gte fans if you want one. PM me for a price, but I won't ask you for a whole lot.

Ok

 

[Greyscorpion]

Ok so I have a feeling that the CPS isnt set correctly because I was able to talk to the guy who did all the ghetto mods to the car and he said he pulled it out when he took the head off and didn't mark tdc and didnt know that he needed to. What I need to know is how to set the CPS to where it needs to be when the number 1 cylinder is at tdc

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Did you have someone crank the engine while you check timing with a timing light? It would tell you whether the timing is advanced or retarded and if you need to advance a tooth or retard a tooth on the cam gear.

Dont forget to jumper diagnostic block when checking timing.

Maybe this well help, its in the link i posted earlier.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=24

 

[Greyscorpion]

I set number one to tdc and set the cam gears to their tdc timing marks and it was back firing so all I can tell is that the CPS is off

 

[Greyscorpion]

I'm still having issues with it wanting to backfire while trying to start

 

[Greyscorpion]

Ran a compression test on it and the first three cylinders are dead so gotta tear into it.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

I'm still having issues with it wanting to backfire while trying to start

Again, http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=24

Did you click any of my links? Cars don't fix themselves.

 

[Greyscorpion]

Again, http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=24

Did you click any of my links? Cars don't fix themselves.

Yes they were extremely helpful. But after checking and rechecking everything multiple times I figured I probably should check to see if there are any dead cylinders causing the backfire. There was 0 pressure on number one and only 60 psi on number 2 and they are suppose to have 156psi. But yes I used the shit out of the websites because they are more useful than the hanes. and I appreciate your help and resources just figured I'd keep u updated. So now ive got to tear into it and find out if the rings or valves are messed up and I'm thinking it's probably both because of where the maf sensor was located at.

 

[spikesnstuff0905]

Just for the record, it doesn't matter if you line up all the timing marks for crank and cam timing, because if the rubber in your harmonic dampener is corroded it could have slipped a tooth or two.