fixing head gasket
- Thread starter MkiiiAllDay
- Start date
Well I know that but i want to know if I buy the 1.9 would it alter the compression ratio much to the point of catastrophic failure even if the block is still in tolerance or is less in tolerance
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IJ.;2006499 said:
So I read this and then thought, wow, seriously?! I owe you a beer or something, Ian. Somebody would go through the work of removing the block and taking it to a machinist only to reuse bearings and skip a cylinder hone? I can't even imagine that train of thought, but sure enough you were right.
MkiiiAllDay;2006512 said:
And then I read this and felt a little better about life.
Even if you value your time very little it seems insane to me to pull a block for machining and not spend $90 on a crank polish, $50-100 on a cylinder hone and $100 for new bearings all around. I know some mk3 owners are cheap, but holy shit...
OP: Glad you talked to DM and they got you steered in the right direction. Prepping for a MHG without any other work at all puts you on the fast track to being a disgruntled 7M owner cursing the Supra name because your motor blew shortly after an MHG install. Good luck with the rebuild. It's money well spent.
Thanks suprarx7nut, and do you have any input on the question I just asked about the compression ratio
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MkiiiAllDay;2006537 said:
I haven't dealt with that myself, but I believe you can measure both the block and head. Then you'd make up any difference with the head gasket.
Sent from my Moto X.
You could measure it and figure it out, but like supranewbie Said your machinist has the proper measuring tools and will be right there to let you know once he gets it machined
I guess I'll just order the stuff that doesn't deal with post machine work
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jdmfreak;2006549 said:
This is what I meant. You could, but it's pointless for you to try to figure out the math when your machinist will have everything sitting in front of him. Along with the tools and experience to come up with the correct answer.
MkiiiAllDay;2006550 said:
Just to make sure, you do realize that this includes the slugs, right?
I used Wiseco Pistons. So far so good. If your not going over 600 crank HP, you can stay stock. ALso, I used a 1.2 Cometic MHG with ARP studs. My block was pretty clean so lapping it didn't involve removing too much. You are going to want to get rid of any corrosive pits though. If you go this route and do everything properly, you don't need to go 2j... ever. 
MkiiiAllDay;2006524 said:
Hi, you can check the spreadsheet I made: https://docs.google.com/a/reynald-r...F3b1YoKxMuWqXQiLttjqg73Rs00U/edit?usp=sharing
Save a copy so you can modify green cells to your needs.
Wisecos are a good choice but Probes are fine. And a couple hundred cheaper. They used to come from DM with NPR rings. Don't know if this is still the case, but I opted out of the rings Aaron supplied. I used the Probes but also bought Total Seal rings. Just my personal preference (rings).
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im not planning on going big horsepower, prolly just about 300hp, do you think the nprs will suffice and last?
its going to be my daily
also for the cold start temp sensor, my connector is pretty much shot, i was wondering what i could use to replace it
its going to be my daily
also for the cold start temp sensor, my connector is pretty much shot, i was wondering what i could use to replace it
Stock is best if your not overboring the cylinders (fresh hone). The stock piston is designed specifically for the engine (wrist pin, slightly off center) and is generally good for up to 600 HP at the crank. Any piston will do, but the pin was offset simply to take into account the slight traverse pressure of the firing stroke to help prevent any knock (if I understand it correctly). Im not sure why your looking at NPR's...
as a rule of thumb... with a properly done Metal Headgasket, the stock 7M setup is good for up to 600 hp at the crank. Some issues with oil if you were to take a stock one that high, but its doable. Anything you do using aftermarket should be an upgrade or just use OEM. If your going to do it "cheaply" (if the reason you want to go non-OEM is because of the huge gold markup on OEM), then research is good. No experience with the NPR's.. just heard a couple people complain in higher HP builds.. but I would expect they should be fine.
(again.. Im not a mechanic.. just going on experience)
as a rule of thumb... with a properly done Metal Headgasket, the stock 7M setup is good for up to 600 hp at the crank. Some issues with oil if you were to take a stock one that high, but its doable. Anything you do using aftermarket should be an upgrade or just use OEM. If your going to do it "cheaply" (if the reason you want to go non-OEM is because of the huge gold markup on OEM), then research is good. No experience with the NPR's.. just heard a couple people complain in higher HP builds.. but I would expect they should be fine.
(again.. Im not a mechanic.. just going on experience)
The tune and greedy owners is generally what kills 7M's, keep it out of detonation and the NPR's will be fine for your power goals.