Does anyone know of a place I can find some OEM pistons, rods, wrist pins, bearings, etc. at besides the dealership? I might reuse my pistons cause theyre ok but I want some new rods, bearings, and wrist pins for sure.
Finding OEM rotating assemblies
- Thread starter MKiiiturbodrift
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jdub;1308210 said:
Agreed, if you all you want is stock, then take this advice....
Oh, btw, dont try ebay for replacement oem parts that are going to be the foundation of your build.
if you really want to get detailed, have the machinist make the piston/rod assemblies the same weight 
You are going to need to get the crank balanced and the journals micro polished (if they are in good shape).
You are going to need to get the crank balanced and the journals micro polished (if they are in good shape).
The motor currently has a rod knock and im concerned about re-using the rods cause they could be stressed. It may be a wrist pin causing it which means I may need a new piston as well. Im picking up another bottom end this weekend and already have a reworked head, so I think im just going to take the bottom end to the machine shop and have it blueprinted and balanced.
That's what shot peen does, stress relieve the rods. Rod knock can damage the big end, but unless it's severe, a re-size will take case of that too. "Wrist pin knock" is so rare (especially in this motor) I would be very surprised if that was the problem.
Anyway, it sounds like you made the choice.
Anyway, it sounds like you made the choice.
well i say its the wrist pin cause i pulled the oil pan off and inspected the bottom end and it all seems to be up to par. Thanks for all the advice though and I already know not to buy my rotating assembly on ebay. its just too risky.
Inspected...as in measuring all the rod journal bearing clearances and remove/look at the bearings?
I checked the torque on them and rotated it to see if there was any movement that looked abnormal but thats about it. Im not a motor expert. I know my way around a vehicle and motors pretty well but I am by no means a engine builder so dont hold that against me.
I'm not, but it's not a good idea to make assumptions either
Has a tendency to cost you a lot more than what's necessary...unless rod knock is bad (if that is what it is), you have to pull the bearings to be able to see the wear. You want to inspect the wrist pins, but like I said, that problem is very rare. What makes you think the problem was rod knock?
If you pull the pistons, you will have to replace the rings at minimum. The cylinders should be measured for roundness and clearance. Depending, you might be able to get away with a hone.
I'm willing to bet your rods are fine...piston/rings depend on the above.
Has a tendency to cost you a lot more than what's necessary...unless rod knock is bad (if that is what it is), you have to pull the bearings to be able to see the wear. You want to inspect the wrist pins, but like I said, that problem is very rare. What makes you think the problem was rod knock?
If you pull the pistons, you will have to replace the rings at minimum. The cylinders should be measured for roundness and clearance. Depending, you might be able to get away with a hone.
I'm willing to bet your rods are fine...piston/rings depend on the above.
i would listen to him ^. I wouldnt spend a dime on new or used parts until i knew EXACTLY what is bad and needs replaced. It WILL cost more.
well its got a knock at first we thought it was a valve but it is much much louder from under the car that it is from the head. I tried to put a stethiscope on it but there was too much other noise to pinpoint it very well. It doesnt knock at idle however. I guess Ill just take the whole bottom end to the shop and let them try to blueprint and balance it and tell me if anything is outta spec. Only question now is would it save me money to disassemble the bottom end first or should I leave it all together? cause Im figuring the block needs to be decked and honed at the least first so they will have to disassemble it first anyways. But they may be able to tell if theyre is something wrong with the rotating assembly before I take it apart. What would you do?
It should save you some $$$ by disassembling, but talk to the machine shop 1st. The question of the day is do you trust this shop? The 7M is very intolerant of any clearance deviations and there are a couple gotchas involved in block assembly...the main ones:
1) Before the cylinders are honed, the rear timing cover & timing belt tensioner needs to be installed. The tensioner must be torqued to the correct value or it will pull the #1 cylinder wall forward creating a low spot when the cylinder is honed or bored.
2) The rear timing cover must be in place when the block is decked so the top is flush with the deck. Otherwise the front cover will keep a HG from sealing.
3) If you use ARP hardware with the rods, you must use ARP torque and re-size the big ends with the ARP hardware installed. Same for the mains, only this will require a line bore. Both rod and main bearing clearances are critical...I go for mid-spec.
4) Piston to wall clearance should be set close to min spec...that is unless you want to have piston slap.
5) If the block is hot tanked, the oil shaft bearing needs to be replaced...this is a PITA. The oil feed hole must be aligned correctly and the bearing honed to the correct clearance.
6) if using a MHG, both the head and block decks must be very smooth. Go for a 30RA, that will meet the spec for any MHG out there. The smoother, the better. For a stock HG, the decks do not need to be this smooth...a standard machine finish is fine.
7) When using ARP hardware securing the head to the block, use ARP torque spec's.
8) Pay attention to all torque sequences...the mains, the cams, the head. There are sequences for disassembly as well.
This is off the top of my head...like I said, the 7M is very intolerant of assembly errors. Read the TSRM on block disassembly/assembly...a couple times. Then you can ask what questions you have.
1) Before the cylinders are honed, the rear timing cover & timing belt tensioner needs to be installed. The tensioner must be torqued to the correct value or it will pull the #1 cylinder wall forward creating a low spot when the cylinder is honed or bored.
2) The rear timing cover must be in place when the block is decked so the top is flush with the deck. Otherwise the front cover will keep a HG from sealing.
3) If you use ARP hardware with the rods, you must use ARP torque and re-size the big ends with the ARP hardware installed. Same for the mains, only this will require a line bore. Both rod and main bearing clearances are critical...I go for mid-spec.
4) Piston to wall clearance should be set close to min spec...that is unless you want to have piston slap.
5) If the block is hot tanked, the oil shaft bearing needs to be replaced...this is a PITA. The oil feed hole must be aligned correctly and the bearing honed to the correct clearance.
6) if using a MHG, both the head and block decks must be very smooth. Go for a 30RA, that will meet the spec for any MHG out there. The smoother, the better. For a stock HG, the decks do not need to be this smooth...a standard machine finish is fine.
7) When using ARP hardware securing the head to the block, use ARP torque spec's.
8) Pay attention to all torque sequences...the mains, the cams, the head. There are sequences for disassembly as well.
This is off the top of my head...like I said, the 7M is very intolerant of assembly errors. Read the TSRM on block disassembly/assembly...a couple times. Then you can ask what questions you have.
I havent picked a machine shop yet. Im going to check some out and get some feedback from some people first. Thank you for all the information.
You're welcome. One more thing, if you replace the freeze plugs on the block use Toyota OEM. Aftermarket (like Dorman) have a tendency to blow.
JDMMA70;1311372 said:
Don't like them on a 7M...the Toyota plugs are steel and seal with a press fit. They have to be tight. I've seen way too many plugs blow due to improper installation and they were all aftermarket plugs.