I've used a Fidanza flywheel for about 3 years now. (Almost two of which the car was down, but that's another subject.)
RPS sprung 6 puck with 3 sintered bronze and 3 "carbonite" pucks. Also I have the RPS pressure plate
First 500 miles were heaven and hell. Engine/Turbo spools up like never before. Shifts nice and easy, the lighter clutch disk actually cured my lousy 2and shift problem. (Old transmission.)
Hell shows up when you want to drive like a sane person. (Why do that anway?) It chatters, it bucks, it's dang loud backing up, and worse if there is any incline to the backing up. (Like into your driveway/garage for example.) All my neighbors think my car is broken. Piston slap when it's cold, and the constant clutch chatter when I back my car into the garage every time I drive it.
I think a one piece driveline makes it worse too. (Less slack to be taken up.)
Mine fit fine. I do reccomend new bolts however, and loctite.
BTW, you know it only chatters when your trying to slip it right? If you just drop it, it bites, and you either move, or spin your wheels..... Or a little of both. I've found a nice blip of the throttle, then engage the clutch makes for the least amount of drama on launches, and then roll into the throttle as the car starts to move and your hooked up. (Same with drag racing actually, no burnout, just blip it to about 3500rpm, then as the engine is slowing down, let out the clutch, and nail the throttle as it hooks up. Just avoid blowing off the tires with the full WOT hit untill your into 4th gear, about 85/90% throttle at first is all it will take w/o turning your tires into dust. (You get to full throttle, just not all at once.)
At least it's how my car drives. Too much throttle, and it's just tire spin. To little and it boggs. High rpm clutch dumps just upset the car more, and lower my ET's. (I'm not slipping the clutch, I'm just modulating the throttle to use the "large" word out of the drag racing thread before.) LOL