Fidanza or Stock Flywheel??

[northwestsupra]

I have driven both a stock flywheel 7m and mine which has the fidenza, i couldnt stand the stock flywheel lol, i also ran "putting flame suit on" a XTD 6 puck with some chatter of course. But I have now upgraded to the ACT extreme solid 6 puck and got a new face for the fidenza, as stated before it so far seems to be a good clutch, i haven't gotten across to using it on the street so i have no say on that but i can defiantly say the pedal got a little harder and will give you a work out for a couple of weeks probably before you get use to it.

 

[lintlars]

The RPS segmented flywheel is the only flywheel I have ever seen that brand new out of the box had different heights from one segmant to another.
Kind of a manufactured wobble.......
Just my opinion, but I think RPS stands for Real Piece of Sh#



From having inadequate clamping force on the pressure plate, and having a metal puck clutch slipping under full throttle.
The metal pucks reach melting temp, and 'friction weld' themselves to the other surfaces.
This is typical of the new breed of chinese 33-1/3rd stage clutches.
Bright colors, and big claims don't do crap.
Stick with name brands, and proven track records.Don't be a cheap-a$$.
Buy enough clutch to handle the power that you plan on building.

Ok, Ive been reading about 'welding' the feramic and even some other clutch discs to the flywheel surface.

Is that mainly under a racing condition where the disc has gotten REALLY hot? We're not talking about, I was daily driving and it welded, right?

Also how to you remove the flywheel if the disc is welded to it!!

Not true at all I was running a full face feramic from HPF paid over 1000.00 for it and my first burn out which only lasted for maybe 20 sec just enough to get the tires warm it welded to the fidanza flywheel I called HPF and they even said this has happened a few times I ended up going with a factory FW with a 6 puck feramic my other Supra I run a ebay special clutch kit going on 4 years and under 400hp it works great Ive run them in both my Supras and had good luck with them I ran 12.5 is both cars with no signs of clutch slippage just stay away from the fidanza flywheels especially if you plan on running a 6 puck clutch the combo make daily driving very poor as far as how you seperate the two I removed the transmission but later realized I did not have to remove the side inspection plates of the r154 and take a small screw driver and have a buddy push in the clutch and pry the screw driver between the clutch and flywheel it should release quite easy

 

[tsupranami]

I have been running the HPF Ferramic FF w/new OEM FW and RPS Max PP for eight+ years at 350+rwhp. I have welded the disk to the flywheel several times, each time it was under racing conditions, slipping it off the line, but only once on an aggressive street launch.

Each time it welded, I just let it cool, drove it up in the RPM's and chopped throttle during a downshift to break it free. I have disassembled it before, and it transfers a small portion of the ferramic material to the FW during the welding process. This material comes right off once cooled, and has left no damage to my FW or PP.

I have the Southbend six puck in my wife's Supra, and it is a noticable lighter pedal feel yet still slip-proof at her current 320 rwhp.

I have avoided the lightened FW's because of their inherent lack of cooling mass and the subsequent welding risks even with less aggressive friction disks, their faster wear and shorter service intervals, and the dificulty in obtaining replacement parts for older designs and/or brands.

I don't like doing clutch work of any kind so the RPS/HPF/OEM combo is about the most bulletproof combo I could find. Almost nothing in this system will wear out within the next ten years. My bet is I lose the release bearing first...or the meniscus in my left knee from the OMG pedal pressure of the RPS PP...Not kidding...!

And before the RPS bashing starts, I am only going by personal experience when I state that I have had two RPS clutches. Both are still fully operational. One in my car, (4-5yrs old)and my original one is in a freinds 350+rwhp Supra(8+yrs old). Another freind has been through three ACT clutch failures during the time I have owned my two RPS's. He is currently tring to break his fourth ACT setup.

I took a chance with the Southbend, and have been pleasantly surprised at it's light and streetable (wife friendly) engagement even with the six-puck sprung hub Kevlar-Ceramic disk.

As far as killing motors with the RPS PP, just remember to shift to neutral and release the clutch before starting the car. That way there is no load on the center shaft and crankshaft to cause premature wear on the crank thrust bearing prior to oil pressure coming up. Good practice no matter what clutch you run...IMHO.

 

[fonz87]

Stick with Stock Flywheel.