Few questions about code 52

[Frankenstien]

So I pulled a code 52 out of my TTR the other day. I have read the knock sensor rewire article on this site. I would like to know where exactly these sensors are located on the engine (1JZ). My understanding is that there are two of them. Pictures anyone?

I would also like some input on how exactly to proceed with this issue. Should I run out and buy new knock sensors or...? How do I go about making sure its the sensor thats the issue and not my ecu? The car sat over winter(sheltered but unheated) and I know the ecu doesn't like the cold too much. I have done minor work on my car but nothing really this major to do with wiring/sensors. Any advice/input is appreciated. Thanks in advance :icon_bigg

 

[92TealSupra]

They're both located under the Intake manifold.

 

[Frankenstien]

^ Thanks for the reply, is it easier to get at them from under the car or by taking the intake manifold off?

 

[mkiiichip]

Its easiest to get to them with the intake mani off. That does make it hard for testing though. Impossible to test with out an oscilloscope, in running condition.

Does the light come on every tome the rpms get above 2500? if not you have an intermittant problem (evin harder to track down)

This code gets set by the computer not seeing a signal from the KS while above 2500 rpm. I would start by finding the knock sensors, disconnecting them and visually check the male and female connectors. ask yourself if you can be 100% sure they are making good contact with each other (while the motor vibrates)

A rewire only helps if the wire itself, is bad (between the connector for the computer and KS), not either connection. keep that in mind

 

[Frankenstien]

Yes, I get a CEL over 2500rpms. Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated

 

[Satan]

I found that the easiest way to access the KSs without removing the intake, was to reach them from the front of the car... Still not the most comfortable, but will save you the 90+ minutes to remove/replace the intake. Basically the are high up on the side of the block and if you remove the throttle body it helps a bit more. Think of it as standing in front of the car, lean down and slide your right arm underneath the intake, alongside of the block... Front-to-back. They are nearly impossible to get to head-on from the side of the car. Once you can get a wrench/socket on it and break loose, you can usually spin off by hand. Getting the connector off is a pain, if the clip is facing the starter. Sometimes it's facing upward, allowing your thumb to get on it good.

DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRE ITSELF!!! It will come out of the connector by itself and you will need to get the replacement pigtail/connector... I think I got mine from a Tacoma or some other Toyota where they sel a wire/connector separate from the engine harness. Then you have to cut/splice/solder to fix.

This is one of those "I have to see/imagine it by feel, instead of sight" type of approaches. I have big forearms, so I kinda have to do some squeezing/scratching but if you have small/medium forears, it should be easier.

Good luck!

 

[Frankenstien]

Thanks for the advice. I plan on tackling the issue this weekend, hopefully I wont need to knock the intake off.

 

[juncboi]

Man this code is super annoying. I tore the whole side of the motor apart to fix my wires and after running with no code for about 1 hour, it freakn pops back up.

I enjoyed the full power while it lasted though.

 

[wooooosh]

I'm about to go through this tommorrow. Car has no power what so ever. i'm going to try the rewire first. I heard 90% of the time it's the wiring not making good contact.

 

[Satan]

The Tacoma connectors/pigtails fit the 1JZ & 2JZ knock sensors... Just reminding ya'll, in case anyone's re-used the 7M ones on their JZ blocks (Urbano used to configure the harnesses to use the 7M ones). I dunno that there are replacement connectors/pigtails for the stock 7M knock sensors.