Failure of the rubber encased OEM driveshaft?

[thedave925]

The short:
I believe the rubber within the second driveshaft casing gave out.

The long:
If i give my car any more than very light throttle i can red line easiliy and the car doesn't hardly accelerate, hell, any slope makes a joke of the effort of the engine to keep the car in motion. I can't hardly go faster than 35, on mostly level pavement, just Wow

The clutch is out of question, as are the clutch master and slave. I can switch gears no problem and it doesn't grind nor is there any trouble with spongy peddles.
And when a LSD clutch pack gives out, it reverts to open-differential operation.

I've searched a bit on what happens when clutch packs and driveshafts go out but haven't found anything remotely close to what i'm experiencing, save for my remembering reading a post long ago that someone was drifting one moment and the next his car wouldn't go but ran fine.

I was fooling around a lil bit, a hard launch on wet pavement. What i thought was all tire spin seemed alright until i pulled up to the next stop, where i discovered that rpms climbed more than the car accelerated despite my easing into gear.
I was only a couple corners from where i parked anyways, not a big deal

I'm pushing a larger turbo than stock with a pretty well tuned Maft-Pro, using the waste-gate spring to regulate until i'm more comfortable. I run 265/35/18 out back on toyo T1Rs.

I'm just trying to confirm from others' experiences what happens when the driveshaft no longer performs.
-Dave

 

[gaboonviper85]

This problem is 100% not driveshaft related!!!! If the second half of the ds fails then the car will shake really bad at around 40mph and only get worse with speed.

This problem is a clutch problem....you generally don't feel a blown clutch when your clutch is hydrolic....your clutch is blown or the adjustment is really bad.

If I was you...I'd take it for a ruff drive around the block with the trans inspection plates off...when you return home stick your face under there and see if you can smell burnt clutch!

But anyway, only reason rpms could not match speeds is pure clutch unless you are also getting massive grinding noises which is an obvious problem.

 

[thedave925]

Hmm well thanks I'll gladly try that. LOL glad i'm wrong, i'd definately rather invest in an upgraded pressure plate than a one piece drive shaft.
And yeah there was a burnt smell which did leave me thinking at first that it could have been some vent i didn't know about to let off excess pressure from the LSD, inventing reasons again...

What is the best way to restore the surface of a glazed clutch facing?

 

[gaboonviper85]

Oh by the way...you can change gears with a blown clutch no problem!!! Don't rule out a clutch as this IS the problem....the speedo is connected to the trans not the rear wheels so even if the ds fails like you said then the rpms will still match gear and speed....your problem is obviously harbored between the speedo gear and motor...you don't mention grinding and or shifting issues so that moves the problem further up the trans too the clutch......

Have you ever driven a supra with a new clutch????

Your clutch is blown....<----just incase you didn't believe me the first time

 

[gaboonviper85]

Failpost!

 

[gaboonviper85]

You my friend need a new pressure plate and disk....if you plan for mods soon I'd get an upgraded clutch of whatever makes your dick hard (I'd go ACT).....you need the flywheel resurfaced if it's not fubar (may need a new one)...

And when I say new...I mean bran fucking new....people who resurface pressure plates fail!!!

 

[thedave925]

For clarity, I'll have to get back to you about if the Speedo climbs too when in gear and pushing the throttle without actually gaining more forward motion. But i follow your train of thought.

I also own a porsche 944 in which i replaced the old clutch and pressure plate with new ones and resurfaced that flywheel. It came out fine, nice and grabby clutch
Doing the supra should be cake-walk to the 944.

 

[gaboonviper85]

For clarity, I'll have to get back to you about if the Speedo climbs too when in gear and pushing the throttle without actually gaining more forward motion. But i follow your train of thought.

I also own a porsche 944 in which i replaced the old clutch and pressure plate with new ones and resurfaced that flywheel. It came out fine, nice and grabby clutch
Doing the supra should be cake-walk to the 944.

your in for a surprise lol....the r-154 can be a serious pain in the ass for the first timer!..the non turbo w58 is a bit more friendly but the turbo trans is so effing heavy and larger in diameter that its very cumbersome...not only that but the pull type clutch in the turbo makes removing the trans to be quite a headache if you arent gonna pull the motor with trans attached!

although i have no clue whats involved in the porsche but dont expect to have the supra trans in and out in an hour cause it aint happening lol.

about the speedo...the speedo may climb but if its not climbing like it should (rpms climb much faster than usual while in any given gear, or rpms start climbing while going up hill or the likes)...then your problem is clutch related..

as far as the lsd clutch goes....even if the clutch's go that still wouldnt cause your problem....it will just be an open diff and one wheel will spin while doing burnouts....

again with the driveshaft...if that was indeed your problem (ive experienced this problem and its nothing like what you are describing....not even remotely) then youd have experienced massive shaking of the car (i couldnt go faster than 60mph as it seriously felt like the car would explode!)....not only that but youd hear it...it makes a very deep rumble all the while your interior plastics creek and crack, dash makes sounds from flexing...etc etc...its not fun..

hydrolic clutch's can be deceiving as you really cant feel much threw the pedal....there is a heavy spring on the clutch pedal itself, spring in the master clutch cylinder which really limit feed back....and honestly most stock pressure plates dont wear out on the fingers so you wouldnt feel the clutch get softer....the old style cable clutch youd know when the clutch wears down as youd have to lift up on the clutch pedal to ratchet tighten the cable to get proper play.....hydrolics dont work like that unfortunately

ps. sense ive experienced both a ds failure and a clutch failure....id rather buy a new single piece ds than have to buy a new clutch....dont know if you have priced turbo clutches but jesus christ they aint cheap and are a serious pain in the nuts to change!

 

[thedave925]

I wanna thank mr gaboonviper85 for bringing me back to reality
He was correct that the clutch went out.
The speedometer did not keep up with the rpm gauge while in gear and in motion during application of the throttle.
I blew the clutch so suddenly i didn't really think about it, as i have a tendency to over complicate things LOL

If i need some pointers, i'll be back. People with insight and patience like you are what make this place so much better than the one that is hardly worth mentioning
-Dave

 

[IJ.]

If the bonded section had failed to that point Dave the car would have been undrivable and would have felt like a paint mixer

 

[Zazzn]

my bet is your disks are slipping and you may have glazed the disk

if you twisted the ds you should see it right away and you will not be moving.

 

[thedave925]

I'll have pictures of the disc when i get some hours to drop the tranny. And the flywheel too once thats out.

-Dave

 

[Johnysupra]

I can probably imagine what that looks like.

Also pay close attention, if it went out really fast it may be oil soaked.. Check your Rear main seal.

If its oil soaked you may be able to salvage the Flywheel

 

[Hacki_sack_kid]

I'll have pictures of the disc when i get some hours to drop the tranny. And the flywheel too once thats out.

-Dave

im a young retard so ill pass along something a wise (old) man told me once, start simple, then work ur way up still get angry at myself cuz i forget a lot of the simple things damn tail light realy lol.

 

[gaboonviper85]

If the bonded section had failed to that point Dave the car would have been undrivable and would have felt like a paint mixer

My car felt like a paint mixer LOL.....but it was indeed driveable...though it was not fun!

 

[IJ.]

And your car was probably 4 degrees out of phase image 45

 

[gaboonviper85]

And your car was probably 4 degrees out of phase image 45

yeah do you remember the pics I posted..? 45 I can't imagine as mine was horrid as it was!

 

[thedave925]

OEM clutch disc to flywheel

Debris @ 12 o'clock rivet on flywheel side of clutch disc

Clutch disc to pressure plate side, worn to rivet= need new pp now

Most worn spot on clutch disc to pressure plate side, Definitely got down to the rivets

OEM pressure plate , has heat marks

Seen these missing parts on the circumference of the pressure plate, all around but not perfectly spaced so i don't know what if it's there due to casting

OEM flywheel, has some signs of heat

Flywheel close up, no grooves or gouges or even a wear path, just the heat spotting

Good rear main seal

I believe i fryed my clutch when i put in 2.5" intercooler piping at the same time as a pretty large turbo, supposedly a t70 with integrated waste gate from precision. Waste gate is 13 lbs if i recall. It has a 4" intake and 2.5" out.
Lipp turbo elbow, megan DP, high flow cat, fart can, 4" kn filter, maft pro not using boost controller with 11.8 AFRs
I haven't dynoed.
-Dave

 

[WhtMa71]

Well there's your problem. I think you might need a new clutch. :sarcasm:

 

[Poodles]

-Pressure plate should have those cutouts.
-Clutch is toast, don't reuse the pressure plate, get a whole kit.
-Inspect flywheel for cracks, mine had them after the stock clutch took a crap on me.