I have a 1990 turbo and am wondering what symptoms I would have if the catalytic converter(s) or exhaust was clogged to any degree. Can this happen?
Exhaust ?
- Thread starter astkgse
- Start date
For sure power loss. Lots of power loss. I had one on another car of mine whiched turned out i had an exhaust valve issue. I had two valves not closing properly allowing unburbed gas into the catty....clogging it. So if it is the catty check and repair other issues....ie....misfire, overheating, fueling issues (too rich).
gtsfirefighter
SM Expert on White trash
Yeah, on mine, I was running too rich, and clogged/ melted the cat.
Symptom was a drop in boost from about 12psi max to 7psi max, so i tried turning up the boost, no change.
Wasn't sure that it was the culprit, but I bought a replacement anyway. When the mechanic dropped the old one, I looked in and saw that it was about 80% blocked. Paid the guy, pulled out on the street,(still with the boost turned up on the mbc), hit the gas and spun the tires, then hit fuel cut.
HUGE difference in power.
Symptom was a drop in boost from about 12psi max to 7psi max, so i tried turning up the boost, no change.
Wasn't sure that it was the culprit, but I bought a replacement anyway. When the mechanic dropped the old one, I looked in and saw that it was about 80% blocked. Paid the guy, pulled out on the street,(still with the boost turned up on the mbc), hit the gas and spun the tires, then hit fuel cut.
HUGE difference in power.
Thanks for the replies. I am getting intermittent power loss. This has been at issue for the last 3 years. I have noticed that it is much worse during the winter (Florida) and at times nonexistent until after a hard acceleration. Then it begins to buck (only way I know how to explain it) when I cruise at half throttle around 50 mph. When it is really bad I have almost complete power loss on normal accel. Then if I push to full throttle the turbo kicks in and I get full power. Would you think it good to just replace the cat or look at the valves?
With those symptoms are you getting any codes? A clogged catty only gets worse as time goes on. They rarely just start working again. You say its goes or fella like full power when you punch it and wirh a clogged catty it doesn't matter how much you jam on it to the car feels like it will hit a wall. I think you have other issues. Post any codes if any. Check for vacuum leaks, check spark plug gap and condition of the plugs, timing, etc. This ,imo, doesn't sound like a clogged catty.
I'm guessing TPS.
I'm guessing TPS.
Agreed. The cat is definitely not your problem if you have any sort of intermittent problem.
Last edited:
a good way to check for clogged cat is to drill and tap 3/8 npt thread into exhaust
find correct fittings and mock up a pressure gauge(0-100psi) will do
start car and let idle...normally on modern cars if pressure is higher then 5-10psi then you have a blockage issue in your exhaust
also what others said is pretty spot on with signs of clogged catalytic convertor
you will also smell a rotten egg smell out of the exhaust
find correct fittings and mock up a pressure gauge(0-100psi) will do
start car and let idle...normally on modern cars if pressure is higher then 5-10psi then you have a blockage issue in your exhaust
also what others said is pretty spot on with signs of clogged catalytic convertor
you will also smell a rotten egg smell out of the exhaust
The code that comes up is 21 I believe for the 02 sensor. I have checked that in the past and it reads good. I have also put another in just to check. I don't smell any rotten egg stuff. Timing is plumb. Plugs have less than 10,000 miles. I don't know where to start on vacuum leaks. If TPS, are we talking replaced or adjusted?
Adjust the tps as per the tsrm, but I don't think its the problem.
If you have an O2 sensor fault code, you'll be running too rich and have very little power. Use a multimeter to check continuity between the signal wires at the elbow, and the pin that goes into the ecu.
You might have a break in the line. At the very least, clear your codes, and test drive it.
If you have an O2 sensor fault code, you'll be running too rich and have very little power. Use a multimeter to check continuity between the signal wires at the elbow, and the pin that goes into the ecu.
You might have a break in the line. At the very least, clear your codes, and test drive it.
How exactly do I do that? Would I have to have a lead at the ecu pin and the other at the corresponding wire at the sensor?