Rennat;1035416 said:
Looking for where i read that at....
Edit: Straight off of Jegs website, along with several others.
Exhaust manifold temperature
- Thread starter Nick M
- Start date
Looking for where i read that at....
Edit: Straight off of Jegs website, along with several others.
I believe that is incorrect...here is what a coating site has to say about curing VHT:
http://www.cacustomcoatings.com/vhtflco.html
The highest curing temp is 600 deg F...that is above the max temp most home ovens can attain.
There is a curing option for on the car that is a bit more specific
This product actually looks to be a decent alternative to keep exhaust parts from rusting...I doubt it has the same thermal properties as a true ceramic. The process for prep'ing is similar as well...one thing I do with a piece that's got oil contamination on the surface is bake it at 400 degs for half an hour, then bead blast. If oil is still present, do it again. Works really well on cast parts.
http://www.cacustomcoatings.com/vhtflco.html
The highest curing temp is 600 deg F...that is above the max temp most home ovens can attain.
There is a curing option for on the car that is a bit more specific
This product actually looks to be a decent alternative to keep exhaust parts from rusting...I doubt it has the same thermal properties as a true ceramic. The process for prep'ing is similar as well...one thing I do with a piece that's got oil contamination on the surface is bake it at 400 degs for half an hour, then bead blast. If oil is still present, do it again. Works really well on cast parts.
the maint point for me was the rust blocker. haha. and it holds up to the heat, so i figured why not...
and this is DIRECTLY from a can of VHT flame proof:
OFF the vehicle
bake at 250 for 30minutes then let cool for 30 minutes
bake at 400 for 30minutes then let cool for 30 minutes
bake at 600 for 30minutes then let cool for 30 minutes
ON the vehicle
run at idle for 10minutes then let cool for 20minutes
run at idle for 20minutes then let cool for 20minutes
run at operating conditions for 30minutes
the paint can hold 1300 and 2000 intermentily, which is pretty good for a "rattle can"
i cant find where it lists the ingredients... but yeah.
and this is DIRECTLY from a can of VHT flame proof:
OFF the vehicle
bake at 250 for 30minutes then let cool for 30 minutes
bake at 400 for 30minutes then let cool for 30 minutes
bake at 600 for 30minutes then let cool for 30 minutes
ON the vehicle
run at idle for 10minutes then let cool for 20minutes
run at idle for 20minutes then let cool for 20minutes
run at operating conditions for 30minutes
the paint can hold 1300 and 2000 intermentily, which is pretty good for a "rattle can"
i cant find where it lists the ingredients... but yeah.
Ceramic coating is the only way. I have tryed the 2000 degree paint and after one run it looked like ass, started to peal, flake, fade. Ceramic coating will give you the best results, as for coloring a exhaust manifold.
92nsx;1036668 said:
one, was this VHT paint?
Two, how did you prep the surface of the manifold?
Three, was this a clear coat or one of the colors they have?
Four, are you sure is was a "flameproof" series
i put it on an exhaust manifold that was 'less than clean' and it went on just fine and STUCK. maybe you bought the wrong shit... cause this stuff is pretty good for what it is.
i soaked my manifold in CLR and then wire brushed it all off so it was clean as a whistle! same thing with the hotside of the turbo... both were looking very nice and shiny. you have to shoot a lot of light coats until you build up a base of the paint on the material or else it starts to run and look like ass.
i soaked my manifold in CLR and then wire brushed it all off so it was clean as a whistle! same thing with the hotside of the turbo... both were looking very nice and shiny. you have to shoot a lot of light coats until you build up a base of the paint on the material or else it starts to run and look like ass.
Rennat;1037811 said:
absolutely
Edit: FYI, Autozone just recently started carrying VHT flameproof. However they don't carry the Clear coat for whatever reason?
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
If you want to try and coat you own exhaust manifolds, and hot sides... Go here, and get the right stuff from the start.
Techlinecoatings.com
Here is the exhaust coatings page.. Read up on this stuff, apply like they tell you, and enjoy.
http://techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm
The only other thing I have to add is do not use glass bead to prep your metal. It does not leave the right tooth, and can lead to adheasion issues.
Use Aluminum Oxide. I reccomend 125grit, and so does Techline.. I've used 75, and it was too agressive.. (Actually, the powdercoater screwed up, and the place he used had 75 grit, and WAY more air pressure than was needed. talk about metal erosion...)
In my blast cabinet, I use 125 grit Aluminum Oxide, and about 90psi.. So it strips really well, but you have to keep the gun moving all the time, or you can errode the part.
I've also coated with many of Techline's products, including the Thermal Dispersant, and many thermal barrier coatings, along with the piston crown thermal barrier. (Which makes an excellent combustion chamber coating, exhaust valve coating, and exhaust runner coating.. The thermal dispersant is great for the block, head, oil pan and pretty much anything that has oil in it, and transfers heat to the air flowing over/around it.)
When applied right, they do not flake, chip or come off, even when put into a sonic cleaner in the case of pistons with Thermal Dispersant on the underside, Thermal Barrier on the crown, and molydisulfied on the skirts.. Pretty impressive that this stuff held up to 15min in the sonic tank with hot solvent being washed over it along with thousands of soundwaves per second...
I've used the VHT flameproof coatings, and while they are pretty good for a rattlecan, they are not like the coatings you can get from Techline.. (Techline sells to many of the coatings shops around the country... )
You can buy directly from them, and apply them yourself..
Techlinecoatings.com
Here is the exhaust coatings page.. Read up on this stuff, apply like they tell you, and enjoy.
http://techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm
The only other thing I have to add is do not use glass bead to prep your metal. It does not leave the right tooth, and can lead to adheasion issues.
Use Aluminum Oxide. I reccomend 125grit, and so does Techline.. I've used 75, and it was too agressive.. (Actually, the powdercoater screwed up, and the place he used had 75 grit, and WAY more air pressure than was needed. talk about metal erosion...)
In my blast cabinet, I use 125 grit Aluminum Oxide, and about 90psi.. So it strips really well, but you have to keep the gun moving all the time, or you can errode the part.
I've also coated with many of Techline's products, including the Thermal Dispersant, and many thermal barrier coatings, along with the piston crown thermal barrier. (Which makes an excellent combustion chamber coating, exhaust valve coating, and exhaust runner coating.. The thermal dispersant is great for the block, head, oil pan and pretty much anything that has oil in it, and transfers heat to the air flowing over/around it.)
When applied right, they do not flake, chip or come off, even when put into a sonic cleaner in the case of pistons with Thermal Dispersant on the underside, Thermal Barrier on the crown, and molydisulfied on the skirts.. Pretty impressive that this stuff held up to 15min in the sonic tank with hot solvent being washed over it along with thousands of soundwaves per second...
I've used the VHT flameproof coatings, and while they are pretty good for a rattlecan, they are not like the coatings you can get from Techline.. (Techline sells to many of the coatings shops around the country... )
You can buy directly from them, and apply them yourself..
i had that ceramkrome stuff on my last exhaust manifold, and that shit WORKS. too bad was the shinyest thing in the engine bay... didnt care for it too much, but when you get a 150 coating for free, i never mind.
here is my hks manifold i used the vht paint on my turbo housing and the mani for looks. My egt temps are 780c or 1436f at the outlet of the head. The coating from the paint will stay on, but you must take care not to get it dirty when touching it almost like a primer.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19781&d=1202602189
http://www.supramania.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19781&d=1202602189
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Swain does their own coatings, they do not buy from Techline from what I know.. However, they do have some coatings they have developed that are pretty interesting based on their claims. (The Ti based skirt coating for example.)
Swain also can spray molten metal on parts, and restore them to the right size after machine work is completed. Very cool option for something that is rare, or can't be repaired any other way. (And can't be replaced.)
The downside is they are not a "do it yourself" option. (However, if your going to pay to have parts coated, they would be one of my first choices.)
Swain also can spray molten metal on parts, and restore them to the right size after machine work is completed. Very cool option for something that is rare, or can't be repaired any other way. (And can't be replaced.)
The downside is they are not a "do it yourself" option. (However, if your going to pay to have parts coated, they would be one of my first choices.)
http://www.treadstoneperformance.co...y=52&prodname=7MGTE+Supra+Cast+Turbo+Manifold
Anybody know of their quality? It looks ok. In fact, it looks like the old HKS standard manifold. Yes they had one, besides the tubular. I am not too worried about max power. This is a consideration, to go with a GT series based turbo.
Anybody know of their quality? It looks ok. In fact, it looks like the old HKS standard manifold. Yes they had one, besides the tubular. I am not too worried about max power. This is a consideration, to go with a GT series based turbo.