European Charcoal Canister mod

[Inygknok]

When I bought my car back in 2003, it already had its CC removed. Heck, I didn't even know where it went until I got the Haynes manual a few weeks later and the previous owner had already parted out with all his left over parts.


Anyways, I've been searching the forum to see how I could properly do something about the CC being removed but still have a clean engine bay. I stumbled across this thread:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?108804-Charcoal-Canister/page5


More specifically, what jdub mentioned about the European CC:

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291220/catalog.aspx?F=7701&P=3


I planned on reviving that old thread but it got closed and I couldn't find anything else about that. Has anyone else done the European CC install state-side?

Also, I don't like where the stock CC is installed for the simple reason that it's behind the turbo and it makes me feel paranoid to have a small can of fuel vapors right behind it. Installing a CC inside the fender well like most people are doing also doesn't seem right in case I get into an accident (just being a bit over cautious I guess?).

 

[CajunKenny]

If I were going to remove the Canister, I would follow the setup of the UK cars.

 

[Inygknok]

That's why I'm asking if anyone has done it state-side , just in case they discovered something new and interesting or if it was an uneventful task.

 

[CajunKenny]

Yeah, I would be willing to bet that most folks that have removed it have either capped it, or just ran a venting hose down through the fender and called it a day. Hopefully, I'll eat those words...

I too have been considering this because I will soon be in the boost range that justifies the use of a Catch Can. With a little ingenuity, the UK setup can be copied.

I'll stay tuned in for responses...

 

[Inygknok]

By the way, I made a mistake. It was Poodles that posted the links to the TSRM and mentioned the European CC, not jdub. And I'm having problems figuring out one thing.

77701T is the check valve and 77268 says it goes to the canister (no idea what it looks like to be honest). Wouldn't be hard to adapt this system to cars here, but it depends on your area (Cali sucks for stuff like this).

The canister doesn't show up in the European picture. I'm going to head on over to a Toyota parts center and ask them to run the numbers and see if those parts are available. I'm willing to bet there's a good chance since it appears that many cars use those parts. Most are listed as Euro models in the TSRM but hey, still worth a shot, right? I'll get back to this later this afternoon.

 

[ValgeKotkas]

Europe CC canister looks the same as the US?
Only that the early 87 versions (N/A like mine) don't have the canister but vent outside (Kai said so, I believe, no?), that's what I understood I understood? Though haven't looked under my fueltank...

 

[SWD Fredester 3]

I'm going to go this route. Right now I have a check valve on the stock line at the fire wall. I think it's a bad location, kind of like a bomb waiting to go off! I was going to remove the stock line running to the fire wall and old charcoal canister and follow the routing of the euro. design. The part #77268 is what I'm interested in, it's either a very small canister or some type of vent cap. I was thinking of using a length of braided SS hose to run to the check valve and then vent the valve to atmosphere. I'm aware that there is no vacuum on that set up like exists on the stock CC but I don't see any vac on the euro set up either.

-Fred

 

[RazoE]

I grabbed an SC300 CC, roughly the same size, but it's oval so it's thinner and looks much nicer. It has a vent that needs to be capped, but the rest of the lines look like they fit the MKIII, I just need to fix my lower line before I can install it..

 

[IJ.]

JDM Cannister....

 

[SWD Fredester 3]

Yeah, I would be willing to bet that most folks that have removed it have either capped it, or just ran a venting hose down through the fender and called it a day. Hopefully, I'll eat those words...

I too have been considering this because I will soon be in the boost range that justifies the use of a Catch Can. With a little ingenuity, the UK setup can be copied.

I'll stay tuned in for responses...

Hey Kenny, mine has been removed for some time. The important thing is to keep a check valve in the line to maintain 2lbs. of pressure in the tank. I know Dov--MK III 4 me- has posted some info in his build thread about this.

As far as a catch can, I would follow Ian's diagram for routing. I ran 2 lines from the valve covers to a Greddy CC then added 2 fittings to the can to vent one to the turbo intake pipe and one with a PCV valve to the FFIM just behind the TB.

-Fred

---------- Post added at 04:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:35 PM ----------

JDM Cannister....

I'd follow your lead on this, any idea where to source one? I just wonder where I'd pick up vac on it since the old valve is gone.

 

[IJ.]

Bought my last new one from Toyota Australia they ordered it in from Japan, sold that when I went 100% LPG then when I went back to Petrol stole one off a bud's JDM parts car, surely someone has a clip with one??

 

[Inygknok]

JDM Cannister....

I don't want the JDM canister setup in the fender wall . That's why I'm looking at this setup. Sure, it's more of a hassle but hey, some people go through a hassle for some things while others go through a hassle for other things.

However, I do have one simple question. Is it possible to make a T in the fuel return line with the check valve so the vapors run back into the fuel tank instead of venting into the atmosphere?

 

[Inygknok]

Bump with IJ's permission to try and get some answers

 

[Kai]

None of the three turbo's and the N/A i've had, have ever had Charcoal Canisters, i don't know of anyone in the UK running one either. Our tanks vent to atmosphere, as far as i'm aware, there's certainly no capped off lines in the Engine bay.

 

[Inygknok]

None of the three turbo's and the N/A i've had, have ever had Charcoal Canisters, i don't know of anyone in the UK running one either. Our tanks vent to atmosphere, as far as i'm aware, there's certainly no capped off lines in the Engine bay.

Do you mind taking a shot of the spot where it vents? The TSRM shows the diagram and it has a check valve that showed up when I went to the Toyota dealership but they couldn't find a picture of it. Also, that last piece in the European line did not show up in the parts catalog.

Still, I'd like to know if it is possible to T the fuel return line OR just like I asked IJ via PM a while ago; modify the stock USDM spec line and re-route it into the intake manifold with a 2psi (or whatever was the requirement) check valve in place.

 

[Kai]

Well, you can look at my build thread on here, that has some engine bay before and afters, the only thing i've removed from the bay, is EGR. Anything else would have to wait, as it's abysmal weather here at the moment...

 

[Inygknok]

Well, you can look at my build thread on here, that has some engine bay before and afters, the only thing i've removed from the bay, is EGR. Anything else would have to wait, as it's abysmal weather here at the moment...

Link?

 

[Kai]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...yota-Supra-Turbo-Buildup-Satans-Little-Helper...

 

[Inygknok]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...yota-Supra-Turbo-Buildup-Satans-Little-Helper...

Nice thread! Really like how it's coming along. Plus you finally had a clear shot of a pipe that was missing in my car. It's the one that connects to the fitting at the back of the 7M head and goes to behind the t-stat housing. Please take a shot of the Euro-spec CC setup whenever you have a chance.


Still waiting on someone to tell me if it is possible to reroute the CC line to the intake manifold with an inline 2psi check valve in place. Think I may just test it out myself and see if I hear the "pssst" come out of the fuel tank when refueling.

 

[jdub]

Using a JDM cannister is the best way to go IMO - just hide it under the fender well as previously mentioned.

I you insist on removing it, use a 2 psi check valve near the tank and vent to the atmosphere under the car away from the exhaust. You do not want to route to the TB or intake with no cannister - gas vapor under pressure (> 2psi) will fill the intake piping or intake manifold while the car is sitting. This will create a bomb under your hood just waiting for a backfire or spark to set it off on start - ask IJ what a manifold of LP gas will do when a backfire occurs. On a warm day, you will get the occasional gasoline smell from under the car.