Engine won't run after turbo swap...

[Wh1te89supra]

Engine won't run after turbo swap

I bought the car back in May with the following already on it-

- Rebuilt to stock
- HKS 1.2 mm HG w/ main and arp head studs
- 550 cc injectors
- Walbro 255 Fuel pump
- Maft Translator
- Custom DP, and exhaust
- TO4E .57 trim BOSS/LIPP turbo
- Hardpipes w/ Turbo XS BOV
- Apexi AVCR Boost Controller
- HKS TT
- Greddy Catch Can
- AFPR
- Koyo Radiator
- Flexlite fans


When I bought it the car would not run. The problem was the fuel pump was wired backwards. I got that fixed and the car idled great. I never drove it just sat in my garage collecting dust sadly. Then recently I have so far put the following on...

-HPF IC KIT w/ HKS SSQV BOV ( Tossed the old hardpipes and XS BOV)
-MAFT PRO w/ boost control and the PLX M-300 Wideband
-Went back to the stock fan, but still have yet to put them in, I'm waiting on a fan clutch.

Well w/ that said the past few days, I've came a long ways IMO. Before the car would just crank and wouldn't turn over. Happened to be the timing was off quite a bit. I think the intake side cam gears were off by 5 degress if I remember right, and the exhaust side was off by one. As well as the CPS wasn't lined up.
Earlier this evening I got all the timing squared away. The battery would always die out quickly, not sure why. So I was charging it for a good 20 minutes, and went back outside gave the key a turn and wahh lahh! The car jumps up to 600 RPM's and bounced from 600 RPM's to any where near 1K. This was while I had the gas pressed to the floor, and the RPM's would not climb. TPS maybe? I'm not really for sure. Then I started it again, and the car idled at 1500 RPM's w/o my foot touching the gas. Then I pressed the gas and the car bogged down and died. I checked for codes and threw code 11. I checked the TSRM, and this is code 11 ECU...

Diagnosis
Momentary interruption in power supply to ECU.
Trouble Area
Ignition switch circuit
Ignition switch
Main relay circuit
Main relay
ECU
What I've found out so far-
- The knock sensor right next to the starter one of the wires is out.
- The TPS may be bad
- The only vacuum lines I'm running is from the vacuum port on the front of the intake manifold to the AFPR and the BOV. The back port on the mani is left open. I was told to run vacuum to the boost gauge, and the heater VSV, but never did that yet.
- I found a white plug right next to the ignitor and I'm not sure where it goes.

Okay, I think I covered everything. If someone can help me out, I'd really appreciate it. Also I have pictures on my computer right now of the engine bay, but they need to be resized and what not. Thanks, for your time!

- Steve

 

[Wills7MGTE]

I suggested to him in an IM it may be bad gas cuz similar issue happened to me once had to two car home and finally got all the bad fuel out, he tried that and it didn't work, so I am at a loss, told him to post up.

 

[Facime]

wow, this thread sounds earily familiar......

did you check the cat? I got this funny feeling it needs gutting

 

[Wh1te89supra]

If I remember correctly, the cat is gutted. Also, the other day I was looking around for things out of place. I found a plastic piece that's on the firewall, that used to have a ground wire going to it I think, but not anymore...

Edit- I just checked the ground wiring bundle and thats on, but I found a grey plug w/ a brown wire and a black wire that was unplugged near the wiring bundle.

 

[Wh1te89supra]

There is no cat at all, just straight pipes. Also, the other day I was looking around for things out of place. I found a plastic piece that's on the firewall, that used to have a ground wire going to it I think, but not anymore...

Edit- I just checked the ground wiring bundle and thats on, but I found a grey plug w/ a brown wire and a black wire that was unplugged near the wiring bundle.

 

[Wh1te89supra]

Updates!

Fixed the code 11 by taking off the ground for the wiring bundle, and cleaning its surface off. The car jumped up to idled and sat there. When I give it gas it drops from idleing at 1500 to 800 and bounces up and down. Checked for codes next and got 22, 24, and 51. 22 is bcuz the water temp sensor wire is out. 24 is the IAT, but I'm not sure whats wrong there. And I believe 51 is bcuz the TPS is off.

 

[kssweeper28]

I would say I have my money on a vacuum leak/boost leak. But then again why would the car keep a steady idle?

 

[frankensupra]

I would say I have my money on a vacuum leak/boost leak. But then again why would the car keep a steady idle?

from my experience i would say vacuum leak. i had the same problem with my 89. TPS probably has something to do with it as well.

was the car originally a n/a? are you running with of w/out and afm?

i will be back in kansas in a few months...let me know if you need some help.

 

[ForcedTorque]

Once disconnected, the ECU needs to re-learn Idle. Crank it, and get your RPMs up over 2000 (if you can) and hold it there for a minute or two.

Also, if your EFI fuse was removed for some reason during your swap, be sure it did not go back in backwards. That caused me idle problems after clearing codes once.

 

[jetjock]

Before I run off I'll say none of those codes could be related to a vacuum leak so you should fix them first. I'm always surprised by people who try so solve other problems before correcting codes. The CTS (code 22) alone can have an effect on idle.

FT: Yeah, you gotta watch for them polarized fuses

 

[kssweeper28]

from my experience i would say vacuum leak. i had the same problem with my 89. TPS probably has something to do with it as well.

was the car originally a n/a? are you running with of w/out and afm?

i will be back in kansas in a few months...let me know if you need some help.

This is White89supra's brother BTW guys. IIRC The car has always been a turbo car. We are running the MAFT PRO. So no afm. We have got speed density and map sensor. One thing that we had left out was, we did not have vacuum running to the map sensor. So we ran vacuum there. Idles a little bit better. The gas problems was not fixed either. But the car is definately running rich. So we will be adjusting the TPS to Toyota Specs later on today. Just have to get a set of feeler gauges and a DMM. Maybe fixing the code 22 (water temp sensor) will help us out. <<< Running Rich cause of that possibly a few people said. Hoping for the Best......

 

[88supraFAST1]

good look guys.