Engine swap advice

Mr Bojangles

Mr Bojangles

New Member
Feb 9, 2009
268
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0
Madison, WI
ZFast300Z;1260021 said:
I've found the other way works better. Let all the air out of the front tires, and jack the back up as high as you can. Makes the engine/trans go in at a much more natural angle.
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Not to hijack this forum at all, but where in WI are you ZFast? I just moved here and would love to pick your brain on local shops and part suppliers. Next winter its major engine overhaul and swap time.
 
paradox616

paradox616

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
472
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Melbourne, Australia
i found its a easy job with 2 people, me and my mate ripped mine out easily... you need a bloke rolling the car back/draging the crane back while the other guy stands in the engine bay holding the trans extension housing off the rad support...
 
8

877m

New Member
Feb 10, 2009
65
0
0
Lewiston, NY
Another MkIII;1259302 said:
Yeah, my harness is pretty aged. It has almost no flex whatsoever. I took off the TB, and the part next to it, the IAC I believe to make it easier to get the harness out, rather than risk damageing it.I might get a new harness if I can find one, or worst case scenario, I'll make a new one. I'm thinking of making a connector at the firewall though so that the next time I have to pull the motor, I can just disconnect the harness at the firewall and save the trouble of disconnecting it in the car.
I also have a couple questions:
Acessories: Is it easier to pull the motor with the alternator and power steering pumps attached, or am I better off to remove them?
Transmission: I have seen two procedures, both in different manuals, one says to pull the engine and trans out together, the other says to leave it in. Which way would be easier? I don't have a lift though, so I have to go out the top though, so keep that in mind.
Thanks for your time and help, and I'll be sure to give a full write up and pics when this is done so I can help others that run into the problems I have along the way.
-AM3
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yea all u have to do is unplug it from the ecu. and u are 100% better off pulling the engine bye it self it is pretty tight that how i pulled mine and the tranny is kinda hard to get disconected the clutch is wierd in these cars i cant remember how to get it off though. but this kinda sounds stupid but u should get your harness ou and lay it on the floor and buy one of those dressup kits it will protect it a bit and it looks better. now when u put it back in i believe its easier to put the short block in then put the head on. it just gives you more room
 
Another MkIII

Another MkIII

Member
Feb 22, 2009
697
0
16
Chicago
IJ.;1264689 said:
Far easier to remove/install the engine/trans as a unit I do mine by myself and have done it 20+ times.

Loadleveller makes it a breeze.
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So I finally got around to pulling it out yesterday, after many delays in the project. The load leveler didn't make it easier, it made this job possible. Huge thanks to you for that advice. Now my next question is, what do I need to do to get the trans seperated from the engine? I already have the bolts out, but the manual says I need to remove the clutch fork as well. Its somewhat unclear as to how to do this, so any input would be appreciated. Thanks for your help.
-AM3
 
Another MkIII

Another MkIII

Member
Feb 22, 2009
697
0
16
Chicago
ForcedTorque;1290518 said:
^Pay special attention to section 15-2/E of that link. If you skip that step, you won't get them loose.
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What the crap?! I got the trans off, so I'm now staring in on swapping my built head to my good bottom end. What size are the inverted hex bolts for the head and the cover between the valve covers? I'm probably just gonna buy a set of allen sockets, but I'm curious...
-AM3
 
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