Hello everyone this is my first post on the forum. I have checked and looked all over for an answer to this problem I am having. Here is my problem....
I rebuilt the motor around 500 miles ago and found the bottom end in almost new condition but did not have the money to get the head machined. I put it all together and it ran great, but I had one slightly bent valve *bent it in a grinding machine on accident* that was causing a slight thumping noise behind the timing cover and the valves had the same type-writer clicking. I parked the car and saved up enough money to send the head to my machinist. He milled the head very slightly, replaced the valve, seals, did a valve job, and ground each valve tip to bring the valve clearances into spec in order to not have new shims.
I used a fel-pro head gasket and arp head studs torqued in 3 steps to 90 ft-lb. I used all new intake gaskets, egr gaskets, and exhaust gaskets putting it back together. Everything has been checked multiple times and is connected properly. The timing has been checked multiple times and is dead on. The harmonic balancer is in good condition and has not sheared.
Once I use the check connector and hook up my timing light and move the distributor towards 10 the engine starts to lope from 1300-1800. It does not have a vacuum leak as I used a smoke machine and brake cleaner and checked every orifice on the motor. I have found the ISC valve to not be functioning anymore and the car behaves the same with it plugged in or unplugged. It also does not click when I shut off the car. I am bench testing the valve to be 100% sure the valve is in need of repair and have cleaned it multiple times with carb cleaner to no avail.
When the car is first started it idles at 1200-1400 but once it hits closed loop it goes from 1300-1800 every single time when set at 10 on the timing cover. If I set it to 0-5 it does not lope anymore, but has lost a lot of power.
I rebuilt the motor around 500 miles ago and found the bottom end in almost new condition but did not have the money to get the head machined. I put it all together and it ran great, but I had one slightly bent valve *bent it in a grinding machine on accident* that was causing a slight thumping noise behind the timing cover and the valves had the same type-writer clicking. I parked the car and saved up enough money to send the head to my machinist. He milled the head very slightly, replaced the valve, seals, did a valve job, and ground each valve tip to bring the valve clearances into spec in order to not have new shims.
I used a fel-pro head gasket and arp head studs torqued in 3 steps to 90 ft-lb. I used all new intake gaskets, egr gaskets, and exhaust gaskets putting it back together. Everything has been checked multiple times and is connected properly. The timing has been checked multiple times and is dead on. The harmonic balancer is in good condition and has not sheared.
Once I use the check connector and hook up my timing light and move the distributor towards 10 the engine starts to lope from 1300-1800. It does not have a vacuum leak as I used a smoke machine and brake cleaner and checked every orifice on the motor. I have found the ISC valve to not be functioning anymore and the car behaves the same with it plugged in or unplugged. It also does not click when I shut off the car. I am bench testing the valve to be 100% sure the valve is in need of repair and have cleaned it multiple times with carb cleaner to no avail.
When the car is first started it idles at 1200-1400 but once it hits closed loop it goes from 1300-1800 every single time when set at 10 on the timing cover. If I set it to 0-5 it does not lope anymore, but has lost a lot of power.