engine internals
- Thread starter King of Cleveland
- Start date
drjonez said:
Most don't know how to properly use search. they type in a big ass question and hope the forum spells it out for them.
There is more to searching than the search engine. Go through the pages one by one. You don't have to read every thread.
SS5: We got my 7M crank down by 5.952474 lbs 
Nick: LOL @ the JDM comment when will people understand they're buying a USED motor that excluding the EGR and a few minor details is EXACTLY the same age and condition as any other 7M
Nick: LOL @ the JDM comment when will people understand they're buying a USED motor that excluding the EGR and a few minor details is EXACTLY the same age and condition as any other 7M
nice link. had not found that. exactly what I needed. 5 ribs vs. 9 ribs. and those lower ribs will be easy to spot also.
dig.
on the JDM tip, I don't really care other than I wouldn't want to pull a motor out of a junk that was a JDM replacement if it was inherently less strong in any way than a USDM motor. That doesn't seem to be the case from what I've read, except that they're missing the oil squirters. The first thing I'll do with any motor is tear it completely down so miles don't matter, I'm just trying to start with the right core here.
ryan
dig.
on the JDM tip, I don't really care other than I wouldn't want to pull a motor out of a junk that was a JDM replacement if it was inherently less strong in any way than a USDM motor. That doesn't seem to be the case from what I've read, except that they're missing the oil squirters. The first thing I'll do with any motor is tear it completely down so miles don't matter, I'm just trying to start with the right core here.
ryan
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KoC: Thanks
I didn't notice it until I had both motors side by side on stands waiting on assembly (hey I'm old)
It's just a bit hard to pin down specific years as a few people have reported thick blocks in early chassis but with cars this old you can't rule out engine swaps to explain that.
I know for a fact that the 2 blocks in the thread are a: original 87 GTE and b: genuine 92 GTE.
Most GTE's have Squirters but there are a few freaks that don't.
I didn't notice it until I had both motors side by side on stands waiting on assembly (hey I'm old)
It's just a bit hard to pin down specific years as a few people have reported thick blocks in early chassis but with cars this old you can't rule out engine swaps to explain that.
I know for a fact that the 2 blocks in the thread are a: original 87 GTE and b: genuine 92 GTE.
Most GTE's have Squirters but there are a few freaks that don't.
Pulled this from another post I made on this subject>>
Guess I'm one of the few that's had both cranks in the same motor with no other changes within weeks so had a chance to make a direct comparison
7M
6M
LW 7M
Guess I'm one of the few that's had both cranks in the same motor with no other changes within weeks so had a chance to make a direct comparison
7M
6M
LW 7M
any external way to tell the squirt/no squirt blocks apart? The chances of randomly pulling a no-squirt GTE seems slim, but sometimes my luck isn't the greatest....
Also, I know your thread with the crank pics said the 7M crank rev'd smoother, but did it rev significantly slower? In V8's a few pounds off the crank is worth a bit of power and quicker revs, but here the balancing issues might offset the benefit. Obviously Toyota changed it for a reason, but that reason might have just been passenger comfort (less vibration/noise) and not for performance. Thoughts?
Also, I know your thread with the crank pics said the 7M crank rev'd smoother, but did it rev significantly slower? In V8's a few pounds off the crank is worth a bit of power and quicker revs, but here the balancing issues might offset the benefit. Obviously Toyota changed it for a reason, but that reason might have just been passenger comfort (less vibration/noise) and not for performance. Thoughts?
Ryan: The 7M crank with the limiter set at 8000 would see 8050 before it cauhgt it just changing to the 6M crank with everything the same I was seeing 8300.
Off boost response with the 6M was noticeably better/quicker and this is why I lightened the 7M crank to get the best of both worlds.
The 6M was harsher until 6000+ and by then the car/motor has so many harmonics happening it's impossible to tell the difference but I'd suspect long term it would trash the bearings if run this hard for sustained periods.
Off boost response with the 6M was noticeably better/quicker and this is why I lightened the 7M crank to get the best of both worlds.
The 6M was harsher until 6000+ and by then the car/motor has so many harmonics happening it's impossible to tell the difference but I'd suspect long term it would trash the bearings if run this hard for sustained periods.
dig. nice work. I'll probably start with the 7M (since that's what will be in the late block anyway) and see what my machinist thinks about the whole thing.
I think he'll mostly just be amused when I bring him one of these.... the last motor I built was a '56 packard V8.
I think he'll mostly just be amused when I bring him one of these.... the last motor I built was a '56 packard V8.
The LW7M I'm using now while costing a bunch to have done was well worth it as it's revs so much better now and at highway speeds you can barely tell the motor is running