Engine build/machine work Q's?

[7Mboost]

To make a story short, a piece of my block has cracked where the threads for the oil housing go in and took out a chunk too big to fix.

Now I just got a block, I'd like to know the difference and when/what came with what for engine blocks. My block has oil squirters, different from my current motor that just got the crack oil filter housing that didn't have the oil squirters.

Now I've got the block at the machine shop and I need to know what kind of stuff I should do. My current block has forged internals, I just don't know the size yet because I haven't pulled them out so obviously I will bore the block (unless its standard size pistons) to the correct measure to match the pistons. The machine told me the block needed to be decked, I thought I heard something about decking the block changes the size of head gasket I should use depending on the amount decked?

The crank out of my the current (cracked oil housing block) block has already been balanced and it will be rechecked. I've heard of knife edging and polishing/micropolishing? Is it worth it? Pros, cons?

More information will be posted as I receive it, thanks.

 

[AbsoluteSpeed]

What year is the old motor, what year is the new block?
Get it decked then ask them the RA value and get a mhg to match.
(I have forgoten what the RA value should be at)
What are your goals for the motor?

 

[gaboonviper85]

How much do you want to spend????

Your options are limitless but alot of stuff isn't needed but cost a fortune...

Basics would be:

Bore cylinders if needed...or if not then a nice hone job to clean them up
hot tank and magnaflux to inspect for cracks
new bearings
new turbo oil pump even in n/a
deck block if needed/grinding is better but if milled make sure to lap smooth for metal headgasket...deck block with timeing cover in place!

New rings
new freeze plugs
Rebuild head
deck head then measure how thick of head gasket you need
thats the simple stuff I can think of right now.

Knife edgeing the crank is pointless for a simple rebuild...if your going for a balls out powerhouse world record then sure get the crank done but its a lot of money for very small power results.

 

[jdub]

Thing I would do:
- Line bore using ARP main bolts and square deck to the bore
- Get the rods magnafluxed too
- Machine deck for a MHG...go for 30 RA
- Make sure piston to wall clearances are exact...it depends on the pistons used
- If the block is cleaned in a hot tank, you will have to replace the oil pump shaft bearings. Make sure they are installed with the oil holes lined up and clearance set correctly
- Make sure the oil channels in the block are flushed out
- Replace the oil squirter bolts
- Use Toyota freeze plugs

You will need to take material removed from the head AND block into account when determining thickness for a MHG. Stock thickness is 1.37mm...just add the amount of material remove in mm for the new thickness.

I would micro polish the crank journals at minimum. Knife edging is up to you...it lightens up the crank and produces less oil windage in the crankcase. A 7M crank is fully counter balanced...the 6M is not. If you re-balance the crank, make sure the dampener and fly plate are attached...you will need to know the piston/rod weights as well.

I would have the rods re-sized to match the crank journals...I go for mid-spec on the clearances for the rods and mains. I would have the rods shot peened and weighed with the pistons to match each other.

Keep in mind all this is dependant on how hard you plan on pushing this motor.

 

[gaboonviper85]

What year is the old motor, what year is the new block?
Get it decked then ask them the RA value and get a mhg to match.
(I have forgoten what the RA value should be at)
What are your goals for the motor?

about 30 ra

 

[7Mboost]

Planning on 500-600hp in the future, I should be around 420 right now (62-1, Greddy manifold, ffim, AEM EMS). The block is being hot tanked right now, what does magnafluxing do? I will be using all ARP for the rod bolts, main bolts, and of course the head studs.

What is a vat? Also I forgot to add my machine shop were a little confused with micropolishing, but they said they could simply polish it, I'll have to get more info on that.

Greddy, HKS, Titan all good choices for hg's? Anyone I should consider in specific, money isn't really an issue I want it to be done right.

I will be buying a brand new oil pump for sure, is Toyota the only/best one to use? Also would this stainless line from DM be a good idea?
http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Item7moilpumphose-8an.php

As far as new rings, bearings, gaskets, they will all be replaced so no need to worry.

And thanks for all the help guys.

 

[AbsoluteSpeed]

And what do you re torque the head to?
I’m sure its on here a thousand times but it will help.

 

[jdub]

Magnaflux checks for cracks.
Hot tank = vat
HKS Stopper is the best MHG there is.
Use a Toyota oil pump.
That line is ok...if you want the best, get the hardline from Arizona Performance (Arz)
Use ARP stud spec for the torque...use moly for lube and it's spec.

 

[JDMMA70]

im on the original headgasket but i retorqued mine to 75ft lbs its been 3000miles so far shes holding up praying for no bhg

 

[gaboonviper85]

im on the original headgasket but i retorqued mine to 75ft lbs its been 3000miles so far shes holding up praying for no bhg

That's great...but what does that have to do with this thread?

 

[JDMMA70]

That's great...but what does that have to do with this thread?

he asked what torque specs on the head i just replied what i had mine torqued to.

 

[jdub]

He also said ARP studs...they come with a spec sheet. THAT's what you use for torque, not what the latest value running on the forums.

 

[7Mboost]

Thanks for the help jdub, will do all listed. Will post new block info when I go back tomorrow.

 

[JDMMA70]

He also said ARP studs...they come with a spec sheet. THAT's what you use for torque, not what the latest value running on the forums.

I remember the value for ARP studs being 80ft lbs on a friend of mines sheet when he did his BHG repair. Im not trying to give the man false info just trying to help to the best of my knowledge

 

[7Mboost]

My machine shop said the bore will have to go 0.003 over stock, should I use standard sized pistons or go ahead and bore 0.020 over?

 

[jdub]

You're piston to wall clearance will be half that + the value for the stock pistons. I would go ahead and bore .020" over with forged pistons for your power goal.

 

[7Mboost]

Alright will do, the pistons I pulled out of my old block were 0.060 over!