Engine assembly questions

[Suprafast0422]

What would some experienced engine builders here reccomend for checking main and rod bearing clearences? Would a using a t guage then measuring that with a mic work? Or do you really need a bore guage? I got all the same # bearings from toyota so i dont think i chould have any problems and I had zero signs of wear on the old ones, but I wanna be sure.

Also, for a final clean down before final assembly of my motor what would you guys reccomend using in terms of cleaning solvent or some kind of soap? I have a brush kit from summit for getting all the oil passages cleaned out, just not sure what kind of solvent or cleaner would be best to use.

And if im using head studs then chasing the threads really isnt that important if there not damaged is it? and off the top of there head what size socket do you use for the arp stud nuts?

Lastly, is the permatex valve grind compound good stuff or should i be using something else?

 

[boro drift]

1. A snap gauge and a micrometer will work fine. Bore gauges are just more convenient.

2. Hot soapy water works well. If you do use a solvent, make sure it won't damage the auxillary shaft bearings. On cylinder walls, I use Zep Powerhouse cleaner with white paper towels, and repeat cleaning untill the paper towels show no sign of contamination.

3. You MUST bottom tap the head bolt holes or the studs will not seat in the bottom of the hole, which would cause them to back out, and you can imagine what would happen after that.

4. As for valve lapping compound, I don't know. I leave that up to my machininst.

 

[IJ.]

Your machine shop should be setting the clearences, a final check with plastigauge to confirm is a good idea.

If you have snap gauges and a mic and know how to use it by all means go for it (keeping in mind if it's off it has to go to the machine shop anyway and they'll remeasure it)

I give the parts a good soak with degreaser then follow up with hot soapy water and a clean rag, if the rag becomes dirty it's NOT clean enough.

Ditto on chasing ALL the bolt holes and deburring chamfering all edges/holes.

14mm- 9/16 12 point thinwall socket

Ditto with Boro I don't lap valves these days I let the shop syncroseat them.

 

[Tango_hotel]

I've used the permatex valve compound on some Ford V8s, with good results. Skip the coarse and just use the fine, go slow, mark the valves you have completed, and use machinist blue to check your seat. I think letting the shop do it is a better option if you haven't done it before.

 

[easternguy2005]

I've read the posts on chasing the threads for the studs but didn't run a tap in there. I used a old head bolt with some parts cleaner.

Rinsed hole with part cleaner, blew clean, ran bolt in, remove bolt, repeated 3 times. Damn I hope they don't start backing out.

I "thought" that running a tap in there wasn't neccessary because the theads are in good shape. Made sure there was no debris on the bottom with a awl.

Read the ARP directions. Torqued in order with the pretorque 5 times each bolt. Took forever.

I'm not pulling them back out at this point but next head pop sure will remember !

 

[Suprafast0422]

So is chasing the threads sufficient when using studs or do i need to tap them?

 

[dan0311]

if there isnt any damage to your crank, or rods, plastigage works well. i used it many times with no problems.

Dawn dish soap and hot water works very well.

 

[92nsx]

So is chasing the threads sufficient when using studs or do i need to tap them?

Use a bottom tap to chase/clean the threads.

 

[boro drift]

So is chasing the threads sufficient when using studs or do i need to tap them?

12mm x 1.75 bottom tap. You will be cutting 3 or 4 new threads in the bottom of the hole. Be sure and do this before final cleaning of the block. No cutting fluid is required for cast iron. Take your time and don't break a tap!

 

[KMinAF]

Use Ajax or Comet, the grit will help seat the rings




just kidding

 

[92nsx]

Use Ajax or Comet, the grit will help seat the rings
just kidding

Why would you post something like this??:nono: I just makes your self look like tard.

 

[dumbo]

if your in a pinch. You can cut some grooves in a bolt but a tap and compressed air are prime.

 

[Scot]

The best cleaner I've found is Super Clean... It is wicked to the hands... But it works well. Just spray on and rinse off, unless of course there is thick gunk.... then you will have to do some brushing. I've seen this stuff remove grime even after pressure washing. It beats Purple Power and Simple Green...

 

[Scot]

One other thing that I've found to work on nuts and bolts is a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner. I bought one a Northern Tool or Harbor Freight. Beats the heck out of trying to clean each piece with a brush... It will make your stainless clamps shine like new....

 

[KMinAF]

Why would you post something like this??:nono: I just makes your self look like tard.

It was an "urban legend" back in the early 50's and 60's that by sprinkling a little scouring cleanser down the carb while the engine was running would result in the rings seating better. The myth resulted in a few seized engines. No, I never tried it. The statement was ment to be humorus for those that remember those days.

Sorry to have offended you.

 

[sneakypete]

as mentioned before for the ARP studs, 14mm- 9/16 12 point thinwall socket is needed. when i went to auto parts stores and other shops that carried tools, the guy behind the counter looked at me like im crazy when i asked for a thin walled socket. After trying several shops and buying many sockets, i found that SK makes such a socket. Do yourself a favor and call ahead to see if the shop carries SK tools before you make the trip... otherwise you'll find yourself taking off the cams to torque down the head
-pete

 

[dumbo]

cant belive people seem to think 14mm-9/16" are the same, will work but not really a good practice, if your gonna drive all over town for a thin wall socket might as well get the proper one. you could also grind down a normal socket...also not the best practice but sometime you got no choice.

 

[pln]

12mm x 1.75 bottom tap. You will be cutting 3 or 4 new threads in the bottom of the hole. Be sure and do this before final cleaning of the block. No cutting fluid is required for cast iron. Take your time and don't break a tap!

its 12mm x 1.25 if its the threads for head studs we are talking about.

 

[Rennat]

my craftsman SHORT 12pt 14mm stocket with a 3'' extension, and then a 3/8'' to 1/2'' adapter ton my torque wrench got to every single one of the arp nuts no problem.

theres not that much thread that comes up once the nut is on, so you can fully torque them to the arp specs.

 

[Suprafast0422]

Where did you guys get your bottom taps from? Ive been to a few stores and snap-on and they dont have them. Then I looked on this site http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm and there are soo many options I dont know what i should get.