Eliminating ISC with MAFTpro
- Thread starter supranaut
- Start date
umm why would you want to get rid of the ISC? This is what controls base idle so not sure how the maft-rpo would do it without having access to a physical air bypass to the intake manifold??
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6950&page=36
Jonezi said to make another thread...so here it is! Why have an ISC when you DON'T need it?! It's also less clutter and I don't want one on my FFI manifold!
figgie said:
Jonezi said to make another thread...so here it is! Why have an ISC when you DON'T need it?! It's also less clutter and I don't want one on my FFI manifold!
supranaut said:
The MAFT Pro can't replace the ICS. There's no feature that I'm aware of that will, anyway. If you don't want the ICS on your FFI, don't put it on.
I think you question should be rephrased to "how can I adjust the idle on my ICS-less car?". To that question I don't know the answer.
supranaut said:
I've read it many times, I don't remember seeing anything about ICS. I must have missed it.
Can you point it out to me? I'm switching to FFI also & would like to ditch the ICS if I could maintain its' functionality.
B
Boostaddctn
Guest
Um... usually the ISC is more associated with cold starts (I think??), I and some others around here are running no ISC on our manifolds and seem to have no problems at all, aight peace :chicken:
From a quick look at this gadget I don't see how it can do ISC, either using the current stepper valve or another air bypass device. Maybe I'm missing something but it has neither the functionality or the required outputs to do it. It wasn't designed for this.
The stock ISC system deals with much more than cold starts. On every engine start it's wide open, then becomes active once 500 rpm is reached and remains active any time the idle contacts on the TPS are closed. It works to maintain an idle rpm setpoint, which changes depending on load, AC clutch operation, coolant temp, headlight operation, and a few other variables.
Why anyone would remove it is beyond me but it's true you don't "need" it as long as you supply bypass air to the intake in some other way. I can think of a half dozen ways to do it off the top of my head, some of which are already on the engine. Not difficult to do but a step backwards none the less.
The stock ISC system deals with much more than cold starts. On every engine start it's wide open, then becomes active once 500 rpm is reached and remains active any time the idle contacts on the TPS are closed. It works to maintain an idle rpm setpoint, which changes depending on load, AC clutch operation, coolant temp, headlight operation, and a few other variables.
Why anyone would remove it is beyond me but it's true you don't "need" it as long as you supply bypass air to the intake in some other way. I can think of a half dozen ways to do it off the top of my head, some of which are already on the engine. Not difficult to do but a step backwards none the less.
You do not need a the ISC or CSI. With a proper setup my car starts when it is near zero degrees up in Washington. I have run no ISC or CSI on both a LEX AFM setup and a VPC setup both work fine. Car will idle as low as 650 but dies sometime after hard accel and then sudden stop, so it is set more at 850-900 rpm which it almost never faulters. This is all on a custom FFI and a fairly heavily modded car 440+rwhp. But in the end is not a problem just have to turn up the idle a little. Just my 2 cents of experience.
Seth
Seth
motor stopping after any condition is unacceptable.
ISC prevents that. Wonder why EVERY SINGLE standalone supports an ISC/IAC valve of some sort if it wasn't needed
but then again I run a nice A/C and also have enough electrical load to warrant the IC. Not needed? If the car is dieing under any circumstance then you are incorrect.
ISC prevents that. Wonder why EVERY SINGLE standalone supports an ISC/IAC valve of some sort if it wasn't needed
but then again I run a nice A/C and also have enough electrical load to warrant the IC. Not needed? If the car is dieing under any circumstance then you are incorrect.
figgie said:motor stopping after any condition is unacceptable.
ISC prevents that. Wonder why EVERY SINGLE standalone supports an ISC/IAC valve of some sort if it wasn't needed
but then again I run a nice A/C and also have enough electrical load to warrant the IC. Not needed? If the car is dieing under any circumstance then you are incorrect.
Car did it when it was stock at that low aswell. I run a vented to atmosphere blow off and with a modified stock manifold running both ISC and CSI it died after a pull. I saw car after car on the dyno either die after a pull or have to be revved to be kept alive. Just my opinion. Just saying the car is daily drivable without problem without them.
Seth
I run without an ISC and set idle to around 1000rpms. It starts a little lower than that and warms up to about 1k. After warm up Motor runs beautifully without any ISC, no dieing, no sputtering. Since the motor should always be warm before it is run anyway, I see no problem with that. But I also have an FFI, no A/c, no big stereo, or any other real big elec. load. I feel I dont need it. Had I kept a/c or had a nice big stere I would reinstall it for sure, it is useful, just not needed in all cases.
I will be MAFT Pro soon as well so I expect the motor to run even better hopefully.
I will be MAFT Pro soon as well so I expect the motor to run even better hopefully.
the maftpro does enable you do get rid of it since it is map based. no there isnt a setting or feature in the unit itself per se. same as the vpc.
running an afm you need it where it sits. running a maft you need it where it sits in draw thru and need it b/w the maf and the throttle body in blow thru. car will run like total crap if you dont in these situations. ive tried.
on the other hand, map based it is not required to reroute back into the intake stream. you can run it w/ open air w/ an element filter (like k&n breather). some have eliminated it completely and just set their idle a bit higher. it really comes down to what you expect the car to do and what compromises you are willing to make.
running an afm you need it where it sits. running a maft you need it where it sits in draw thru and need it b/w the maf and the throttle body in blow thru. car will run like total crap if you dont in these situations. ive tried.
on the other hand, map based it is not required to reroute back into the intake stream. you can run it w/ open air w/ an element filter (like k&n breather). some have eliminated it completely and just set their idle a bit higher. it really comes down to what you expect the car to do and what compromises you are willing to make.