electrical gurus unite! for the love of sup help!
- Thread starter morganson
- Start date
z287mgte;2011552 said:
He has spark.
morganson;2011663 said:
I don't want to delete my original response, but had to read all the thread. I guess it is time for pie.
morganson;2012386 said:
B1 goes to what it says in that link although the TEWD is a better reference that should be consulted instead.
17 should have continuity with 12. Again, the schematic makes that clear.
"A little continuity?"
jetjock;2012595 said:
Explain to me why you want a 12v on the 1/4 injector pin but not on the rest? And I have been going over the tewd for two days and according to it that wire doesnt exist (B1 22) according to the tewd there is no wire that splices into the injector pin 01.
There shouldnt be. Because if it was the white blue that would be the ground side which should only go to the ecu.
My thoughts exactly. So my question still stands. Where does connector B1 go and why does it need a splice on the injector pin 01? And why does the Tewd not show the splice for that pin?
Note that there is a tap on the injectors for the supermonitor for pre-89 cars. Used to compute fuel consumption. Also note that the TEWD on Cygnus for a 90 does not match exactly the link for an 88, so things change depending on your year.
I suggested a test in post #4. Did you do it?
I suggested a test in post #4. Did you do it?
3p141592654;2012685 said:
I havent. I ended up pulling the harness out when I found continuity on the injector harness. Tested until I found it on the ecu side of the harness. That is when I found the b1 connector was where my problem was. I will look for the supermonitor ewd. With luck I will just cut it out and call it a day.
So I got it running last night. Idled fine, reved, no problems. Go to start it up this morning and poof. Same old stick. This is getting real old and starting to really tick me off.
So here is the low down.
If I treat it as if im retiming it she will run. But. I have 0 adjustability at all. Advance or retard just a little bit it dies like you flip a switch. For the record it now has a brand new igniter, and has been tested with all 3 ignitions and no difference.
Can someone tell me why my ignition timing would change after sitting over night?? Cams are dead on, crank is top dead center. Cps is right in so whats up?
Thoughts?
So here is the low down.
If I treat it as if im retiming it she will run. But. I have 0 adjustability at all. Advance or retard just a little bit it dies like you flip a switch. For the record it now has a brand new igniter, and has been tested with all 3 ignitions and no difference.
Can someone tell me why my ignition timing would change after sitting over night?? Cams are dead on, crank is top dead center. Cps is right in so whats up?
Thoughts?
morganson;2013122 said:
The CPS is installed out of time. Or the cams themselves are out of time.
Cps ohms out in spec. There are some little metal hairs. Never thought much of it. Wires are good.
I have a spare cps I can throw on and see how it goes
I have a spare cps I can throw on and see how it goes
So now for the record the problem is solved. So now I have a very clean harness and another cps. Got alot done Ive wanted to do for a long time. Still dont know whats bad about the old cps but that was it.
morganson;2013122 said:
The CPS is installed out of time. Or the cams themselves are out of time.
Since I didn't heed JJ's correct assertion about dunning/kruger the first time, I will now back out.
Dunning-Kruger is a bidirectional effect, btw, and it's easy to be caught on either end of it, for exactly the same reason. In this post I might achieve both ends at once, but WTF. For $250 you can get a USB device to make your laptop an oscilloscope with logic analyzer. It would have given you the answer in an hour by checking CPS output tracing, injector signals, IGT, and primary coil windings. This technology has gotten so cheap it's worth a month of Sundays just for the learning experience of watching your engine and ECU talk.
Last edited: