Electrical Connectors

[JustAnotherVictim]

JaV: If you get a good set of wire strippers they work without cutting the wire

It slices the insulation and pushes it out of the way you wrap the new wire around the stripped section solder and tape and you have a perfect join without cutting the original wire through! (thanks to Allan for teaching me this technique)

That's the way I was planning on going although I was still hoping to not have to do it. To me that's still hacking up my harness. Only way to go I guess though.
I'll check out the liquid tape also Moe

 

[Jeff Lange]

JaV: If you get a good set of wire strippers they work without cutting the wire

It slices the insulation and pushes it out of the way you wrap the new wire around the stripped section solder and tape and you have a perfect join without cutting the original wire through! (thanks to Allan for teaching me this technique)

Hard to use heat shrink that way though . (Unless it's near the connector and you pull the pin out of the connector, I do that sometimes).

 

[Jeff Lange]

To me that's still hacking up my harness.

It is, but one thing you'll notice if you use those quick connectors, your wiring will not only look like crap, but it doesn't make a good connection. Plus, if you do take them off, they still cut into the wire's insulation, meaning you're gonna need to either tape it, or (preferably, IMO) heatshrink it.

In case anyone cares, I'm a huge advocate of heatshrink!

 

[miggles]

i got told by one of the fitters at my old job ( i quit today yay. start new job 1may) that if u keep exposing heatshrink to heat it will keep shrinking. I asked him about using it in a enginebay. is this true?
solder and wrap tape around the join. Do it once do it right. that way you dont have niggling electrical problems jump up n bite you on the ass in the middle of nowhere in a thunderstorm with a dark haunted house at the end of a long driveway as the only shelter and fone)

 

[Allan_MA70]

Hard to use heat shrink that way though . (Unless it's near the connector and you pull the pin out of the connector, I do that sometimes).

ahhh ha!

here be your answer!

http://www.wppltd.demon.co.uk/WPP/Connectors__Cables___Tools/Wiring_Aids/wiring_aids.html

 

[Allan_MA70]

i got told by one of the fitters at my old job ( i quit today yay. start new job 1may) that if u keep exposing heatshrink to heat it will keep shrinking. I asked him about using it in a enginebay. is this true?
solder and wrap tape around the join. Do it once do it right. that way you dont have niggling electrical problems jump up n bite you on the ass in the middle of nowhere in a thunderstorm with a dark haunted house at the end of a long driveway as the only shelter and fone)

it will actualy expand! if its overheated but at this point it will also be VERY close to catching fire! in normal conditions it will shrink to 50%-75% of its original size and thats it.

I did have a fuse box lid come off and the speedo cable short out the fuse box on my brothers 4wd when doing some night time 4wding in the middle of the bush... allways a great feeling when engine! and everything else stops and go's dark in the middle of no-where!

 

[shaeff]

i'd cut, solder, heat shrink, and because i'm anal when it comes to wiring, and i hate corrosion with a passion, go over the heat shrink with brush on electric tape to prevent anything from getting under the heat shrink.

i love brush on electric tape. just don't get it on you.

-shaeff

 

[diy guy]

i soldered all my wires directly and later regreted it when it was time to upgrade to different fuel managment. My recommendation is to instead use disconnect type connectors, soldered or cimped, and isulated. For the maf wire you have to cut, use a male on one side and a female on the other to simplify reversal should you decide or need to go back to stock.

another little trick is to splice at different lenghts, it'll make the harness look much cleaner and have less clutter.

 

[IJ.]

Yep Offsets are a great idea to reduce the bulk of the spliced area!

 

[3p141592654]

Use Molex MX150L sealed connectors under the hood. You can get them at mouser ( http://www.mouser.com/catalog/625/1086.pdf ). A little pricey, but well worth it. You will also need a good ratcheting crimp tool like these ones.

http://stores.ebay.com/EE-INDUSTRIES

For splicing I like to use solder as described above, but to hold everything in place I first crimp on an uninsulated butt-splice with an inspection window (i.e. a Panduit BS18-M http://www.mouser.com/catalog/625/1114.pdf ) and then solder through the inspection window.