Electrical Connectors

[JustAnotherVictim]

Just curious about what kind of connectors everyone uses for their safc, turbo timer etc...
I don't want to hack into my wiring harness and I know there are some connectors that go around the wires that will facilitate the connection. So I just wanna know how they've been working for you and where you got them.
Thanks

 

[IJ.]

JaV: If you're talking about "Scotch Locks" The type that you squeeze and it cuts into the existing wire these blow hairy donkey balls!

 

[jetjock]

Yeah, imho any type of IDC (Insulation Displacement Connector) is bad news in a car. If you want to do it right you'll use something like Amp PIDG crimp terminals.

 

[jdub]

JaV: If you're talking about "Scotch Locks" The type that you squeeze and it cuts into the existing wire these blow hairy donkey balls!

I was stupid and tried these...once. Never again!

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

JaV: If you're talking about "Scotch Locks" The type that you squeeze and it cuts into the existing wire these blow hairy donkey balls!

Not quite what I was thinking of. I saw those and thought about it but figured there had to be something better.

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

Yeah, imho any type of IDC (Insulation Displaement Connector) is bad news in a car. If you ou want to do it right you'll use something like Amp PIDG crimp terminals.

Aren't there quite a few different types of those?

 

[JonoTurbo]

Yikes, I have a few of those in my cars, why exactly are they bad?

 

[suprastanger507mgte]

Yikes, I have a few of those in my cars, why exactly are they bad?

They tend to loose connection.Sometimes they barely pierce the insulation and can cause bad connections.

Get a autosport wiring jumper..its around 140bucks..

 

[IJ.]

They cut into the wire and tend to corrode internally (dissimilar metals) so you end up with a weak point in the wire physically and a bad electrical connection.

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

Hey would these work?
http://www.radionics.ie/electronic-components-ie/index200.html

Not sure if the link is working but they are called Electro-tap splices, will those do the same as he scotch locks?

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

Ok this is what I was told to use
http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=531

Will that corrode?

 

[IJ.]

Same shit different bucket JaV!

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

Dammit it all

 

[SoupedUpSupra]

solder it FTW

 

[Jeff Lange]

Cut wire, strip ends, strip end of new wire, thread wire through heat-shrink, solder, shrink heat shrink onto wire.

Repeat process for all wires required. Rewrap harness.




Tap connectors suck!

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

I just didn't want to have to cut into my harness but I guess that's the best way.

 

[Justin]

Cut wire, strip ends, strip end of new wire, thread wire through heat-shrink, solder, shrink heat shrink onto wire.

Repeat process for all wires required. Rewrap harness.




Tap connectors suck!

Without a seconds thought the right way to go.

 

[IJ.]

JaV: If you get a good set of wire strippers they work without cutting the wire

It slices the insulation and pushes it out of the way you wrap the new wire around the stripped section solder and tape and you have a perfect join without cutting the original wire through! (thanks to Allan for teaching me this technique)

 

[jetjock]

Yep, a handy thing to know. There's actually a name for it. Called a "rat tail" splice.

 

[suprastanger507mgte]

BTW, there is only one wire that you will have to snip off, for the AFM signal and thats it. If you solder it, you won't have any issues whatsoever.
All the rest, you can peel the insulation off with a good stripper ( the self adjusting kind) and solder them.

Use heat shrink to insulate - keeps the wiring nice and tight and won't loosen with vibration.
I also like liquid tape, it adhers better to the wires.