are you sure they don't fit?
I am only aware of SMALLER stock brakes that where available in other parts of the world, not larger...
I am only aware of SMALLER stock brakes that where available in other parts of the world, not larger...
EBAY Rear Brake rotors, anyone bought these?
- Thread starter NewWestSupras
- Start date
Slotted disks work. Period. The holes do indeed make a difference, or big time manufacturers like Ferrari and porsche wouldn't bother with it.
Even cast-drilled rotors can crack because the holes (dispite being cast in) create a high stress concentration... but because the grains in the cast iron are curved around the hole, it handles the stress well enough to last.
On a street car, it's a fad. Drilled rotors generally belong on track cars and race cars for all intents and purposes. Race cars have their rotors changed regularly, so there's no time for them to develop cracks.
The holes are to dissipate the gas that builds up during braking (heating) from the bonding agent that holds the friction material together in the brake pad. Brakes convert the potential energy of the car moving into heat energy via friction.
Has anyone ever dropped a cast iron skillet and had it break? Your brake rotor is made from about the same material... do you really think drilling holes in it is worthwhile to make up the same difference you could with paying better money for a better brake pad? Ceramic brake pads are expensive, but they work. And work well.
If you're willing to inspect your brakes every few weeks and are willing to foot the bill to replace them every year, sure, aftermarket drilled rotors will be great for you. Otherwise slotted rotors will last alot longer because the slots do not penetrate the rotor, but do the same job. Your brake pads won't last as long, but still not nearly as costly as a new set of rotors every year or two...
But all things considered, I wouldn't bet my life on a 60 dollar hunk of cast iron off ebay. Of everything to upgrade on your car, you can't possibly spend enough money on brakes and tires... the two most critical components for keeping the car under control.
Even cast-drilled rotors can crack because the holes (dispite being cast in) create a high stress concentration... but because the grains in the cast iron are curved around the hole, it handles the stress well enough to last.
On a street car, it's a fad. Drilled rotors generally belong on track cars and race cars for all intents and purposes. Race cars have their rotors changed regularly, so there's no time for them to develop cracks.
The holes are to dissipate the gas that builds up during braking (heating) from the bonding agent that holds the friction material together in the brake pad. Brakes convert the potential energy of the car moving into heat energy via friction.
Has anyone ever dropped a cast iron skillet and had it break? Your brake rotor is made from about the same material... do you really think drilling holes in it is worthwhile to make up the same difference you could with paying better money for a better brake pad? Ceramic brake pads are expensive, but they work. And work well.
If you're willing to inspect your brakes every few weeks and are willing to foot the bill to replace them every year, sure, aftermarket drilled rotors will be great for you. Otherwise slotted rotors will last alot longer because the slots do not penetrate the rotor, but do the same job. Your brake pads won't last as long, but still not nearly as costly as a new set of rotors every year or two...
But all things considered, I wouldn't bet my life on a 60 dollar hunk of cast iron off ebay. Of everything to upgrade on your car, you can't possibly spend enough money on brakes and tires... the two most critical components for keeping the car under control.
Ferrari and Porsche do it to lighten the rotating mass. It doesn't make you stop faster.
The drilled rotors run cooler, but that isn't directly what you want. You want heat transfer to take place. Energy from moving forward is transfered into heat. You can't actually get rid of energy, we only change it from one form to another. And air is a very good insulator compared to metal. A solid rotor is better at transfering heat. Ducting is a better choice, as are vented rotors, which have been around for quite some time now.
The drilled rotors run cooler, but that isn't directly what you want. You want heat transfer to take place. Energy from moving forward is transfered into heat. You can't actually get rid of energy, we only change it from one form to another. And air is a very good insulator compared to metal. A solid rotor is better at transfering heat. Ducting is a better choice, as are vented rotors, which have been around for quite some time now.
i'm riding on ebay drilled and slotted (yes i know its a nono from u guys) i've had no problems with them for the last 2 years i've had them. I've used them on the drag strip and even used them in road racing and they show no signs of cracks. I guess it really depends on how its drilled and who u buy it from.
Nick M;959794 said:
Now I realize you meant that they do it to lessen the mass for acceleration, but you do realize that a lighter rotating mass DOES make you stop faster, right?
Less rotating mass = less inertia = less angular momentum = less energy required to stop... and so fourth.
I'm sure the rotating weight loss is not the biggest factor in brake distance, (pad and rotor material make big differences) but to say it simply does not make you stop faster is just wrong.
I digress.
I'd say OEM brembo blanks would be just fine unless you do any mountain runs or track days. They're about the same price/little more than those ebay POS's and they work well.
Every brake thread I've read on this forum turns into an arguement on what purpose drilling serves... or some arguement nonetheless.
However, it is agreed that for reliability, nothing will ever come close to blanks. For performance at the expense of longevity, drilled and slotted will work the best. Slotted, in my opinion (and from the summation of all the opinions I've read about), is the best combo of longevity and performance when combined with the proper pad. Drilled rotors can last a long time, but you play your cards for whether they last 2 weeks, 2 months, or two years... because I've seen and heard of all combinations.
I've seen a porsche drilled rotor that was cracked in half, an aftermarket drilled rotor off of a honda that was broken... drilling serves to allow superheated gas somewhere to move and also serves to lighten the disk... or whatever anyone's opinion of its purpose is. Bottom line is that it provides alot of little concentrated stress points that can and will crack and/or break.
Anyone is welcome to get them, all I'm saying is be prepared to inspect your brake rotors fairly often to avoid a potentially disasterous incident.
Bear in mind that "fade characteristics" is mostly in the pad. If one couples a drilled rotor with a shitty pepboys pad, it's going to suck. Getting blank rotors with really nice pads and it'll result in good fade-resistant brakes that will last a long time.
I'd have to tend to agree that drilled rotors for street applications are more show than practical.
However, it is agreed that for reliability, nothing will ever come close to blanks. For performance at the expense of longevity, drilled and slotted will work the best. Slotted, in my opinion (and from the summation of all the opinions I've read about), is the best combo of longevity and performance when combined with the proper pad. Drilled rotors can last a long time, but you play your cards for whether they last 2 weeks, 2 months, or two years... because I've seen and heard of all combinations.
I've seen a porsche drilled rotor that was cracked in half, an aftermarket drilled rotor off of a honda that was broken... drilling serves to allow superheated gas somewhere to move and also serves to lighten the disk... or whatever anyone's opinion of its purpose is. Bottom line is that it provides alot of little concentrated stress points that can and will crack and/or break.
Anyone is welcome to get them, all I'm saying is be prepared to inspect your brake rotors fairly often to avoid a potentially disasterous incident.
Bear in mind that "fade characteristics" is mostly in the pad. If one couples a drilled rotor with a shitty pepboys pad, it's going to suck. Getting blank rotors with really nice pads and it'll result in good fade-resistant brakes that will last a long time.
I'd have to tend to agree that drilled rotors for street applications are more show than practical.
The stock MKIII brakes are far too small for the weight of these cars, even stock (this is why the MKIV brakes are HUGE, and at the time where the BEST on an production car).
There simply isn't enough mass to keep the heat out of the brake fluid. Once the fluid boils, the brakes fade eventually to nothing.
This is all assuming decent pads and rotors.
Modern pads don't use the same bonding agents, and as such, don't have gasses that build up between the rotor and pad. Crossdrilling is no longer really needed.
Slotted helps to removethe part of the pad that glazes over, allowing a new surface that can bite harder on the rotor. They will eat pads, but help stopping.
Where is arz when yah need him? LOL
There simply isn't enough mass to keep the heat out of the brake fluid. Once the fluid boils, the brakes fade eventually to nothing.
This is all assuming decent pads and rotors.
Modern pads don't use the same bonding agents, and as such, don't have gasses that build up between the rotor and pad. Crossdrilling is no longer really needed.
Slotted helps to removethe part of the pad that glazes over, allowing a new surface that can bite harder on the rotor. They will eat pads, but help stopping.
Where is arz when yah need him? LOL
suprarx7nut;959946 said:
It isn't. The trade off is not there for stopping.
Poodles;960775 said:
What a bunch of unadulteraed BS.
Really? I've seen in FIRST HAND. How many MKIII's have you seen on a roadcourse? How many times have you driven hard enough to overheat the brake fluid?
Calling it BS without any proof or facts (like the fact that Toyota knew the brakes wheren't good enough, so they upgraded them for racing, and upgraded them when they make the MKIV).
Calling it BS without any proof or facts (like the fact that Toyota knew the brakes wheren't good enough, so they upgraded them for racing, and upgraded them when they make the MKIV).
