Easy Oil Pan removal?

Satan

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
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I still vote to pull the motor/tranny... You will need the same equipment either way (engine hoist, etc.), but you will be able to get to more, easier, and be more sure that you "sealed/installed" the pan correctly.

And, like it's been said... between 2 ppl, you can easily pull in less than 90 minutes (tho some are faster at it, that's what I'd count on).
 

IHI-RHC7

"The Boss"
Apr 1, 2005
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Like I said. I was a "pull her every time" guy. Dropping the pan per TSRM is SO much faster and easier. Yeah, if you want to change all of the everything, open the wallet, do a mini rebuild.
Like Chris said, supporting the motor by the crank is bad. Use a picker. the subframe rests on the pickers legs. A jack in the middle of the subframe lifts it very evenly and easily. Cost. an $8 tube of toyota FIPG. Sure pulling the motor is quick, but dropping the subframe is FAR more practical. laying on your back isn't fun. Jack the car up a little higher and use a nice cushioned creeper. You'll be glad you tried it. This way you don't dump gear oil all over your garage floor whne that last little bit pours out the tailshaft of your near vertical motor-tranny combo. Oil cooler, turbo outlet pipe, drain coolent, pull IC pipes, pull harness through firewall, pull radiator, pull shifter, pull driveshaft, unbolt slave cyl, unbolt the 8 bolts that hold the 3rd engine mount to the car and tranny....
NONE of that stuff is needed to drop the frame and drop the pan. 2 Hours MAX, 1 person, following the TSRM to a T.
 

Cedrock15

The Sarcasm Specialist
Sep 29, 2005
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Bucks County, PA
Wow! thank you all for the great number of responses and suggestions. One key issue I failed to mention is $$. Another poor college student here i only work 10-15 hrs a week (got about $20 to last me another week). Next check only part i need and can afford to buy is radiator (cracked on me last week), and overflow tank. I can only work on the car saturday which at most will be 10am-8pm. I only have myself most of the time, I can call my father for a little help every now and then but hes got a project to do with inside the house with bathroom. So as of now Im leaning towards the TSRM way b/c of the financial cost, since its just me doing the job, its my daily driver and I cant afford for anything to break/rip/crack or not be able to piece it back in time for sunday, and I havent done anything too technical with car since I got it yet.

Pulling the engine and tranny would be a little too much for me because I only know about half the parts, little time, little money, and little to no availible help this wkend. It would definately take me at least 2 hrs to get it out, and like someone else said id most likely have a big mess around and end up with extra parts in the end lol. I wish I could though because I can get to the egr plate in back or block easier, and look at the starter which I have to do saturday as well.

Ive had the oil pan gasket here for a while sitting, and weathers getting worse already so this looks to be best weekend to do it, most likely until next spring when i do MHG job. Any more instructions, or tips on the easier/cheaper way (for me) of getting it out via jacking engine up or dropping crossmember would be great. FPIG i guess, is what i should add on oil pan gasket, and wait 12 hrs before refill. Btw how far down does oil pump go so i know how much clearance will be good enough to slide it out. Thanks again to all, and Great detailed writeups for removal of engine and jacking up engine. Im gonna subscribe +add this thread to favorites because its tsrm quality.

Or if anyone has good reason to wait until I do mhg late next sping let me know. But i prefer to do it now just to be safe, have the piece of mind knowing oil isnt leaking, and not have to keep wasting oil refilling it since its my ONLY oil leak.
Thanks again ALL so far, ...
 

Satan

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
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Tampa
Cedrock15 said:
Or if anyone has good reason to wait until I do mhg late next sping let me know. But i prefer to do it now just to be safe, have the piece of mind knowing oil isnt leaking, and not have to keep wasting oil refilling it since its my ONLY oil leak.
Thanks again ALL so far, ...


Sounds like you have a plan... If you ARE sure that the leak is at the pan, then go for it now (I had a mystery leak and knew it wasn't the pan). The oilpump is about 5"-7" or so... I can measure it when I get home tonight. I am in the middle of a rebuild and just dropped off the head and block at the machineshop (MHG-ready!).
 

Cedrock15

The Sarcasm Specialist
Sep 29, 2005
126
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Bucks County, PA
Well today was the day to do it, i got halfway and canceled. Drained oil, everything was supported with jacks, engine mount nut was off and started crossmember. Pops told me it was gonna rain and i started packin up and canceled. So changed afm which ive been putting off, battery terminal connectors, and few minor stuff. In the end didnt rain and i should of continued im just gonna wait until I rebuild it next spring to change the gasket
....Thanks again guys :icon_bigg