Dyno'd my car tonight... get ready to laugh
- Thread starter Moy
- Start date
In before close, this thread is way off.......
I want to help so bad, feel bad for that poor GE. when was the last tune up?
I want to help so bad, feel bad for that poor GE. when was the last tune up?
staticpage;1306856 said:
Not sure, done by last owner. I'll be giving it the once over pretty soon here, just need to get everything and find some time to do it all
Hey all,Push;1305456 said:
Y'all do realize that above and beyond the obvious tons of miles it's got on it he could have a "midas special" pea-shooter exhaust with a "super-mega quiet" suffocating muffler, or waaaay too big an exhaust for N/A's with a monster fart-can and too little back-pressure, retarded timing, etc, plus no two dyno's read the same either, even if they're both the same brand.
Racing Solutions Inc's DynoJet (when it was still in Houston in 2007) said my 98TT 6-Speed Supra with a slipping TRD Single-disc clutch and stock flywheel made 392whp with the boost controller off and 436rwhp with the boost controller on right before the clutch let go unexpectedly at 16.5psi of boost, then Hennessey Performance's DynoJet said it did 401whp on 16psi in 2008 and 428whp on 24psi of boost in 2009 with a RPS twin-disc clutch and RPS lightweight flywheel in it for both times it was on the Hennessey DynoJet... Same GReddy 3-Row Intercooler, same exact full 3" exhaust, etc...
A previous owner of my 98TT also has dyno sheets showing in excess of 480whp from the car on some dyno in Dallas with almost identical mods as what I have on it now, same intercooler and exhaust, etc, although he had that TRD clutch in it at the time when the TRD clutch was still new and holding up properly.
Hennessey's DynoJet also showed almost 100whp lower recently for a buddy's single'd MkIV than Boost Logic's dyno numbers in austin just weeks earlier when they did the single conversion, so which dyno is "wrong"???
Basically neither is "wrong", just different conditions, adjustments, etc.
So unless you dyno 2 cars on the same dyno you can't really compare notes very well apparently and he shouldn't feel bad... He put down better whp numbers than my former 96 Camry has as stated stock crank hp/tq numbers.
I didn't really notice a mods list in his thread so if I missed it, sorry...
I suspect that he needs to jumper out his T1(TE1) and E1 to put it in diagnostic mode, start the car and check the timing with it in diagnostic mode (should be 10 degrees in diag mode), then get a K&N FIPK Intake and a complete stock 7M-GTE cat-back with a test pipe, set the timing at about 15 degrees instead of 10, and try it again.
The GTE cat-back on a GE seems to be a near perfect balance of flow and back-pressure to keep the N/A's valves happy and a test pipe works really well on that cat-back if you can get away with it on emissions testing.
The stock auto is a bit of a power kill compared to the W58/R154 but not by that much...
My old 87 N/A auto with the sport package and 170k miles on it would climb strong, smooth, and easy from about 70mph on up well into triple-digits and peg the 150mph speedo pretty effortlessly once I did the above listed mods years ago before Katrina turned it into a submarine...
The only drag pass I ever made in it was mid 16's with a full tank of gas, the a/c on, and a 24x8x2 Mackie mixer in the hatch along with all its' interconnect cable snakes and my work tools, and it was totally 100% stock with the full original GE intake and exhaust and stock sawblade wheels at the time... I have no idea what it would dyno. Never got around to it.
As long as you don't run that N/A low on oil or coolant or let it run hot it'll start every time and get you where you need to go, regardless of what the dyno says...
C'mon dude, get it right... It's a Toyota... His VVTi is broken!hottscennessey;1305473 said:
myothersupra: I have an aem dry-flow filter, I don't like the idea of having oil going through my AFM from the K&N. My exhaust is completely stock, but I have an exhaust leak in between the front pipe and catalytic converter.
Also, we realize it's not vtech, it's only a joke :biglaugh:
From everything that the previous owner half-assed on this car, I would not doubt that he messed up the ACIS somehow, I need to jack up my car and check everything out. I'll be changing the oil, change and flush the coolant, new thermostat and hoses, new belts, pulling a Civic owner and remove the A/C belt (don't ever use A/C, windows work wonders), new plugs, valve cover gaskets to fix the leak, intake Y pipe gasket, and new oil galley plug gaskets.
I hope I can fix everything and get some more power out of it so it's at least more fun to drive until I go turbo. Trust me, when you daily a slow car, it get's very VERY boring.
Also, we realize it's not vtech, it's only a joke :biglaugh:
From everything that the previous owner half-assed on this car, I would not doubt that he messed up the ACIS somehow, I need to jack up my car and check everything out. I'll be changing the oil, change and flush the coolant, new thermostat and hoses, new belts, pulling a Civic owner and remove the A/C belt (don't ever use A/C, windows work wonders), new plugs, valve cover gaskets to fix the leak, intake Y pipe gasket, and new oil galley plug gaskets.
I hope I can fix everything and get some more power out of it so it's at least more fun to drive until I go turbo. Trust me, when you daily a slow car, it get's very VERY boring.
Well when you have a flapper afm like the 7M-GE does it really doesn't matter if a little of the K&N oil gets into it but yes you do have to be careful when oiling the FIPKit on a 7M-GTE Supra to prevent the Karman Vortex's electronics from getting fubar'd by the filter oil.
If you still have the stock phillips head valve cover screws then it's most likely just time for new screw grommets and you may be able to stick with the existing valve cover gaskets a bit longer then.
Yeah I know the VTEC thing was a joke, I was just poking... There was no VVTi in the MkIII days and the first few years of N/A MkIV didn't have it either plus none of the USDM GTE Supras ever had it at all...
You've obviously never spent a summer down south or you'd know "windows down" totally SUCKS!!! Especially if your a/c actually works! Plus no a/c compressor belt means no windshield defog/defrost on rainy days with the windows up too because the a/c system dries out the air which sucks the hazy moisture film off the interior side of the windshield in the rain.
As for being bored with a "slow" car, I daily'd my 87 N/A automatic for 11 years and 120k of my own miles added to it and only stopped driving it because hurricane Katrina turned it into a submarine in 2005. I loved my N/A MkIII, especially the top end...
Granted there were 2 Turbo MkIII's and a TT MkIV in my posession during that same 11 years and I did use each of them as daily's randomly as well so when I wanted a bit more speed I had easy access to it any time...
I also daily'd a 1996 DX Camry with cold a/c for the past 18 months 'till I got my 93TT automatic Supra up and running as my new commuter car and the Camry's now sold.
I only use the 93TT as my commuter. My daily driver in-town vehicle is my 84 MkII Supra.
So "slow" cars are only boring if you feel there's something to prove...
Admittedly I hated everything about the Camry except the comfy ride, gas mileage, and cupholders but I really like how my MkII "feels" like a sportscar to drive even though it's pretty damn "slow", and it gets a lot of attention everywhere I go in it.
Slow is just a matter of perspective and in most cases a car is really just transportation.
The MkIII just happens to be a pretty damn nice means of transportation even by today's standards, and even in Non-Turbo form, imo.
But anyway... it's late and I'm rambling...
Good luck with your mods and upgrades!
Later dude
If you still have the stock phillips head valve cover screws then it's most likely just time for new screw grommets and you may be able to stick with the existing valve cover gaskets a bit longer then.
Yeah I know the VTEC thing was a joke, I was just poking... There was no VVTi in the MkIII days and the first few years of N/A MkIV didn't have it either plus none of the USDM GTE Supras ever had it at all...
You've obviously never spent a summer down south or you'd know "windows down" totally SUCKS!!! Especially if your a/c actually works! Plus no a/c compressor belt means no windshield defog/defrost on rainy days with the windows up too because the a/c system dries out the air which sucks the hazy moisture film off the interior side of the windshield in the rain.
As for being bored with a "slow" car, I daily'd my 87 N/A automatic for 11 years and 120k of my own miles added to it and only stopped driving it because hurricane Katrina turned it into a submarine in 2005. I loved my N/A MkIII, especially the top end...
Granted there were 2 Turbo MkIII's and a TT MkIV in my posession during that same 11 years and I did use each of them as daily's randomly as well so when I wanted a bit more speed I had easy access to it any time...
I also daily'd a 1996 DX Camry with cold a/c for the past 18 months 'till I got my 93TT automatic Supra up and running as my new commuter car and the Camry's now sold.
I only use the 93TT as my commuter. My daily driver in-town vehicle is my 84 MkII Supra.
So "slow" cars are only boring if you feel there's something to prove...
Admittedly I hated everything about the Camry except the comfy ride, gas mileage, and cupholders but I really like how my MkII "feels" like a sportscar to drive even though it's pretty damn "slow", and it gets a lot of attention everywhere I go in it.
Slow is just a matter of perspective and in most cases a car is really just transportation.
The MkIII just happens to be a pretty damn nice means of transportation even by today's standards, and even in Non-Turbo form, imo.
But anyway... it's late and I'm rambling...
Good luck with your mods and upgrades!
Later dude
am i the only one who thinks that that output isnt really that bad? hes only about 15rwkw off what it should have made from factory.. given its done the rounds id say its nothing to laugh at...
The curve starts to late to see if you have your low end curve. The default for the system(ACIS) is high end. That is why torque peak is 4800 RPM, exactly as where Toyota says.
You have high miles, and low compression. Not necessarily way off and smoking. But it is low. Tune up parts and exhaust leak are not alone in the power loss.
You have high miles, and low compression. Not necessarily way off and smoking. But it is low. Tune up parts and exhaust leak are not alone in the power loss.
So basically what im getting here is if you wanna see if your GE is in good shape........have it dynoed!
I plan on dynoing my car regaurdless just to see.
Thumbs up to you for strapping yours on the rollers.
I plan on dynoing my car regaurdless just to see.
Thumbs up to you for strapping yours on the rollers.