Gotta quick question on smoking oil at idle...
First the specs : rebuilt engine - 0.060" bore over, new OS stock pistons, new rings, bearings, crank sent off, block decked, non-shimmed stock oil pump; cyl. head - new 1mm OS valves, mild port/polish, BC springs and Ti retainers, BC 264 cams (valves and buckets shimmed to these cams); DriftMotion 60-1 turbo, intercooler, AFPR, UEGO wideband, AFC Neo, tubular manifold, 3" DP and exhaust, godspeed alum radiator, RC 550 inj, rail juiced to 14v, Walbro, dual elec flexalites...etc...
The problem: after fighting BC cam timing, finally dialed in at -4.5 exh and 0 int (timed into engine with degree wheel) giving me 8 deg. overlap per BC specs...rings seated by previous owner...power band : weird 3500 rpm "dead spot" once cleared, boost came on full about 4200 rpm due to cam setup. Drove the car pretty much every day for almost two months, my friend and I tuned it to around 11.5 AFR's at 12 psi...no more because boost gauge hard line is cracked and bleeds off so we stopped... about a month ago I noticed on probably 5 different occasions that my exhaust was pouring whiteish smoke at idle, always while in traffic, so I could never get out to smell it.
Finally it happened again so I took it to my friends house who knows a grip about these cars, for him to help me out. Its definitely smoking oil, but only at idle, once off idle it goes away. Quick note, with these BC cams setup how I have them, the engine has very shit vacuum at idle, less than 8...off idle it goes up to 10-12...my friend seems to think that its my cams somehow with poor vacuum equals not enought PCV so its pulling oil past the pistons.
Im not running PCV off the valve covers through the intake mani or the turbo, just put two breathers on..they have made a slight mess during the two months I drove the car, and I cleaned it up. This occasion when I brought it by, I shut it off, we popped the hood, and there was oil all the fuck over my valve covers, and down in the cyl head galley. IDK the reason why it suddenly went from minimal to blowing oil everywhere, but its bad.
I called a mutual friend who happens to be a moderator on this website Greg B., and lives locally where I do, and explained everything to him..the car has gotten really hot twice due to my negligence and forgetting to turn on the elec. fans...I noticed both times it got hot, got the fans on and cooled it down almost instantly before shutting it off; also notified him that I fucked up prior to this when I copper coated my 2mm HKS viton headgasket..which after I did this and installed it I read a forum on here about solvents in copper coat that fuck the viton up and BHG results..fuck...Greg knows the deal with my cams and is pretty much at a loss for information since hes never done them and neither has anybody that I have met with MK3's, Greg knows the guy that rebuilt my cyl. head because he built his 7m stroker for him and hes a reputable mechanic in my area.
Greg advised me about p-tex on HG is bad, said I might have torn a valve stem seal and a few other things..I am at a loss ATM. I want to pull the engine, take the cyl head off and take it back to the guy that built it and have him re-shim it for stock cams and put another HG in according to Greg's post using Brake Quiet, and possibly fix stem seals, see if i warped the motherfucker and/or lost a valve guide due to overheating it. Did I mention Greg told me I put a little much torque on my ARP head studs (and no I have not checked the torq since installing the head and putting around 1500-2000 miles on it) but initially I put 115 lb.ft. (I know I know way to much, Greg said 90-100 is all hes run, and hes put the same Greddy HG in four diff motors with no prob, so plz dont lecture me about all the mistakes Ive made, this is my first rodeo with Supras and I did alot of this stuff myself, uneducated at the time but have learned since)
While the engines out, I was going to put a rubber oil pan gasket in, shim the pump, and get rid of the banjo line on the pump in exchange for a braided line with AN fittings (Driftmotion I believe sells it) supposedly less restrictive, which makes perfect sense.
But please, feel free to throw out suggestions...I'd like to have an idea of possible options ie different routes i could try first before hand to see if it solves the smoking problems..I know i need to run another compression test and then a leak-down bfore i rip the motor out to see if its a BHG or a valve, do a retorq also...aside from the obvious - any positive input is much appreciated.
