Has anyone done this before? Looking at doing it for my car as I have a couple of items that drain the battery so I'm moving those items to the new battery.
Dual Battery Setup
- Thread starter suprra_girl
- Start date
just bridge them together.postive to postive,negative to negative.thats how it's done in my dodge pick-up from the factory.i also have a secondary battery wired in my work van that power's an inverter,which is done the same way.
i've never done it in the sup though.
i've never done it in the sup though.
That's great for a truck where you want lots of power to everything all the time, but not so great for a car where you want one to be 'disposable' and the other to be there to start and run the car when you need it.tsuper92;1299268 said:
I've done a lot of these setups back when I worked in the car stereo world. You just need a battery isolator... this allows one battery to completely discharge without affecting the one you use to start the car.
They are used a lot in boating applications as well. Pretty simple to wire up, too.
Unfortunately the drains I have are something I can't avoid 
I was going to run a Projecta electronic Isolator and an ns40 battery.
But upon thinking about it, I have a battery with RC of 135 an ns40 is going to be far less.
My main battery will run flat in about 3 days or so with a drain of 0.10.
If I move the 0.07 drain to the ns40 its going to run that flat also so it would then be pointless... I wonder if I just move say the 1 drain of 0.04 to that battery. I would then only have a 0.06 drain on the starting battery and it should last about a week, although the most I don't drive it is usually about 3 days.
I think just moving the one drain is an idea.
I was going to run a Projecta electronic Isolator and an ns40 battery.
But upon thinking about it, I have a battery with RC of 135 an ns40 is going to be far less.
My main battery will run flat in about 3 days or so with a drain of 0.10.
If I move the 0.07 drain to the ns40 its going to run that flat also so it would then be pointless... I wonder if I just move say the 1 drain of 0.04 to that battery. I would then only have a 0.06 drain on the starting battery and it should last about a week, although the most I don't drive it is usually about 3 days.
I think just moving the one drain is an idea.
There is a battery manager available to charge and isolate the non start battery, that would be an alternative.
I already looked at a solar panel, preferred permanent but there are window restrictions and the panel would not be able to provide necessary voltage. If the sun goes behind a cloud the charge drops right out, so I gave up on that idea.
Prosport Peak & Warn Gauge x 2 at 0.02 each
Turbo timer with other memory functions 0.03
RTR (Light retractor) 0.01
Radio 0.02
Prosport Peak & Warn Gauge x 2 at 0.02 each
Turbo timer with other memory functions 0.03
RTR (Light retractor) 0.01
Radio 0.02
No alarm, and draw change doesn't alter... its the same all the time.
The only thing I can think of is when running the car then switching off something is staying stuck on?
I don't know how I can measure that, to read with multimeter I need to disconnect batt and then that would nullify the test lol
The only thing I can think of is when running the car then switching off something is staying stuck on?
I don't know how I can measure that, to read with multimeter I need to disconnect batt and then that would nullify the test lol
well
\more than likely (this is a HUGE guess). One of the relays.
You will have to literally tap or unplug and replug the relays and see what happens.
\more than likely (this is a HUGE guess). One of the relays.
You will have to literally tap or unplug and replug the relays and see what happens.
I had similar symptoms with an optima yellow top battery that turned out to be faulty. It would charge fine, start fine when charged, and pass a battery load test, but if it sat for 2-3 days it would lose a huge amount of charge(even when disconnected) and be very weak. Probably internal current leaks. I posted this a while ago and about a dozen guys chimed in to say they also had problems with their Optima batteries (and that they suck!)
I was hoping it was the battery, I put it in my mums supra and it was fine No easy fix unfortunately.
I've been leaving my batt disconnected for now because it's just highly inconvenient having to jump start it LOL
No easy fix unfortunately.I've been leaving my batt disconnected for now because it's just highly inconvenient having to jump start it LOL
I'm constantly going through batteries on the 89.:aigo:
At least they keep replacing them under warranty.
At least they keep replacing them under warranty.
Suzie, these things are actually pretty easy to diagnose.
Just put an ampmeter on it, unplug all the fuses / relays, then plug them back in one at a time and keep an eye on the meter. When it starts showing anything significant, you've found your culprit. I've seen this caused by everything from faulty stereo equipment to a fried alternator, and just about everything in between.
Just put an ampmeter on it, unplug all the fuses / relays, then plug them back in one at a time and keep an eye on the meter. When it starts showing anything significant, you've found your culprit. I've seen this caused by everything from faulty stereo equipment to a fried alternator, and just about everything in between.
^^^:bigthumb: But I would pull the fuses one at a time and see where the biggest current being dramatically reduce where most likely the potential short will be at.
T701jz
I have to agree with grimjack. It is easier to spot a movement when the reference = ZERO.
I have to agree with grimjack. It is easier to spot a movement when the reference = ZERO.